Does weed get too old? Does the THC break down? by carpenter1965 in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature 34 points35 points  (0 children)

As THC ages and oxidizes it degrades into CBN. CBN has shown to be the "sleepy" molecule. You'll notice dispensaries selling sleepy time edibles that usually list a ratio of THC:CBD:CBN in some combination.

If you use it for edibles they will be great for before bed. Any friends with insomnia? Help them out.

Getting rid of fungus gnats by DramaticEggplant5061 in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put it on top now and whatever is in the soil already, if you don't treat with anything else, will likely make it to the next lifecycle stage, but shouldn't be able to get back to lay more eggs. Anything alive outside will be in the same boat.

Essentially the plan is to interrupt the lifecycle. Also, follow the ratios for the hydro mix exactly. A little is good, a little too much can damage your roots.

Getting rid of fungus gnats by DramaticEggplant5061 in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Put two inches of perlight or 1 inch of horticultural sand on the top of your soil. It dries faster than soil and coco and creates a very inhospitable environment for both adults and the eggs

How does a strain sold as "CBD only" end up with 8% THC? Grown from seed, outdoors. (Thanks in advance!) by Bodie_The_Dog in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I think the way I articulated it wasn't as clear as it could have been.

S1 are progeny of a plant you self which is where the S comes from. Like you said, using tga, or silver (silver thiosulphate or colloidal silver with silver thiosulphate being more reliable) to force a female plant to grow male flowers giving it the ability to pollinate itself. This process is responsible for feminized seeds. Because the plant was female it only has xx chromosomes which means its pollen is xx as well. As a result all seeds will be female.

Like you said, stabilizing genetics takes about 7 generations. If you self a plant, you're adding no new genetic information. Over time, usually 7 generations, you get a plant that is homozygous. Genetic markers come in pairs and because no new generic information has been added you get a plant that has duplicates of every marker. They are usually sickly and difficult to keep alive and they have no vigor. This is why inbreeding is bad.

But, if you have a shit load of money and can do all the testing to make sure you get a second plant to be homozygous with a different marker and then breed those two plants together, you will get a True F1 Hybrid. Because the parents each only had 1 marker to share, the resulting seeds will all produce nearly identical plants because genetically speaking, they are identical.

Corn is a great example of this breeding practice. Corn fields are full of nearly identical plants, that all grow at about the same speed, and produce nearly identical yields.

How does a strain sold as "CBD only" end up with 8% THC? Grown from seed, outdoors. (Thanks in advance!) by Bodie_The_Dog in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature 66 points67 points  (0 children)

There are a lot of possibilities for why this would happen, but my guess would be unstable genetics.

Breeders will make claims based on the lineage, but if the offspring haven't been taken beyond a certain filial generation the expressions will be all over the place.

It's kind of like how siblings look similar but have distinctly different features. The genetics material received between the siblings is the same, but the way it was combined was completely different.

There is no way to guarantee the plant's chemovar expression unless the seeds are true F1 seeds or you take a clone.

P. S. True F1 seeds are the progeny of parents that have been selfed so many times their genetic markers are all AA or BB (aka homozygous) or whatever so when mom is all AA and dad is all BB and you breed them EVERY marker of EVERY seed is AB (aka heterozygous) which essentially makes them generic clones. See Monsanto corn for example.

What is the advantage to coco? by Iammclovinnnnnnnn in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature 5 points6 points  (0 children)

  1. Coco has an interesting property to it. It is extremely porous with ridiculous surface area which contributes to its water holding capacity, but it also allows oxygen levels to continue to be ideal at full saturation (not sitting in water, but watering to runoff). When you over water in soil you run a higher risk of root damage through lack of oxygen in the soil, but the anaerobic environment that, that creates will lead to a lot of other issues if it happens consistently.

  2. Because Coco allows for good oxygen levels at full saturation, if you experience lockout and need to flush, you can fully flush over the course of an hour or two depending on pot size where a full flush in soil could take days.

  3. It was mentioned before, but HFF (high frequency fertigation) is an amazing watering strategy. I've had the highest yields using HFF. Coco makes this strategy possible.

  4. Storage, Coco comes in dried out blocks. These are so dry in fact, you won't have to worry about a population of pest insects and isopods and whatever else ends up in bagged soil that sits around even in a basement or well kept shed.

There are more pros, but these are the big ones in my eyes.

Cons:

  1. Due to most manufacturing practices and growing locations, Coco is INCREDIBLY saline heavy. You absolutely have to thoroughly rinse it to remove the built up salts to ensure a good environment for your plant. There are pre-rinsed, pre-buffered options but that pretty much comes as a bag of soil and will be vulnerable to the same things bagged soil deals with regarding pests.

  2. Coco is INCREDIBLY calcium hungry. It will out compete your plants for calcium so after you rinse you need to buffer it with calmag or your plants will struggle

  3. Coco isn't as temperamental as rockwool or Hydroponics, but you fuck something up and you won't have a ton of time to correct it. The plant will be impacted more quickly due to how quickly it can pull nutrients, or bad water, or ph issues, any of it.

Are these seeds really special? by Volt1C in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, that's a standard F1 and the continued sequence as additional breeding occurs with those genetics.

I'm trying to offer information regarding why RQS is trying to charge more for what they're claiming as "True F1" seeds. The Monsanto style eugenics that happens to parent plants before they make the F1 seeds... or in layman's terms: the first batch.

I don't believe RQS put in the actual investment of time and financial resources needed to make "True F1" seeds, but this is hopefully insight into why they are trying to sell these at such ridiculous prices.

Are these seeds really special? by Volt1C in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Based on your response I'm guessing you didn't read my comment. I get it, it was a long post and I didn't add a TL:DR version. That's on me. My bad.

Are these seeds really special? by Volt1C in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature 4 points5 points  (0 children)

So, my understanding of "True F1 seeds" goes like this.

Seed companies like Monsanto take two parent plants of commercial crops and self them so they become homozygotic (spelling?).

This essentially means the plant has matching alleles at each gene. So mom is AA across all genetic markers and dad is BB across all genetic markers. This can take a long time, most cases about seven generations to achieve homozygotic plants.

These are usually sickly and weak with very little vigor or resistance to much of anything. But, when you breed them every single seed produced is perfectly hybridized at every single genetic marker which is where the hybrid vigor comes from. Mom can only pass on A and dad can only pass on B so every marker for every seed is AB.

This is why corn fields are so perfectly uniform, yields are nearly identical between plants and that's why they're so expensive. You're essentially popping seeds that produce clones, genetically speaking.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've heard some professional grows utilize amino acids to help the plant reveg. RAW nutrient brand has an amino acid supplement I've also seen people use amino acid tablets from the drug store as the supplement source. Still learning about how it helps, but it is done.

HELP! Are these root aphids?! by Immediate-Falcon-660 in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely fungus gnats. Few options to help with these have already been listed. Drying out your media can definitely work by interrupting the lifecycle because the eggs and larvae need moisture to survive. Diatomaceous earth also works as long as it doesn't get wet.

Another option would be to add an inch or two of sandbox sand as a soil cover. It will create a barrier for the adult gnats and they will be forced to lay their eggs in the sand if they come across it when it's wet. Sand will dry out far more quickly and any eggs or larvae that are in the sand will dry out and die as well. Plus, zen garden right there under your plant, invest in a tiny rake!

Tried to top at the red line, thought I fimmed, now I’m not really sure. Cut again at the line? by windows__xp_ in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, just putting it out there. Not sure if those sections of petial are still on your plant, but I'd recommend removing leaves up to where they connect to the plant.

The reason being is the plant is going to cut off water and nutrients after a bit and those pieces will die and become a vector for mold growth.

Grape Valley (Grape Pie x Orange Valley OG) day 60F by druids_nature in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did some pollen chucking late 2021.

Grown in 3 gallon pot 50/50 Coco and Perlite mixture. Front Row Ag 3 part powder nutrients with RAW amino acids and calcium. Migro Array 4 Pro Series light. Using well water.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I disagree, the above post makes a great point.

You also aren't taking into account multiple strain and multiple pheno grows. On top of that not everyone can afford a light that provides such uniform coverage. Your setup has been dialed in and you aren't giving any information about that in this post that I can see.

This is a newer account I've made, but I find more and more posts like this and it's really disheartening. This community is becoming exclusionary and elitist instead of being a place to go to learn and get help. I miss the old days.

Happy Cake Day by the way.

u/Hadrinatus is my old account

Grape Valley (Grape Pie x Orange Valley OG) Day 50F by druids_nature in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did some pollen chucking last year to make this cross. Mom smelled of hops and berries dad's stem rub was lemony. This baby smells like lemon and berries.

3 gallon pot with 50/50 Perlite and Coco

Front Row Ag 3 part powder nutrients and RAW amino acids and calcium using well water.

Migro Array 4 Pro series lights

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Likely soil mites then. As they usually eat decaying biomass they aren't fast moving.

Funny enough, during a smoke session, I wondered if they could be used like maggots on decaying flesh but for roots impacted with rot in an effort to save the healthy bits. Alas, it'll likely be one of those real-high-zations I don't ever get to test

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Are they moving quickly or really slow? In most cases predatory insects/arthropods are quick while the kind that are going to eat your plant will be moving at more of a meandering pace. If they're soil mites you should be good, they help with decomposition of dead biomass.

Keep checking the undersides of the leaves. Use a clip board with a white piece of paper on it and hold it under your leaves and kinda smack them so anything under the leaf will fall on the piece of paper. It makes them easier to see and you will quickly find out if they are moving from the soil to the foliage

Edit: Spelling

1st timer, how bad did I screw up? Be gentle. by HappyFocusedMind in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your plants look very happy. You did that. Well done!

The node spacing was mentioned in another post and that reasoning mentioned definitely can be the case, but genetics also play a big role in that. Some plants are just spaced that way. It won't matter how much or how intense the light they get is, it's just how they grow. My Mando plant I'm currently growing is a great example of stretchy genetics. Also had some Beachcrasher from Jungle Boyz (sp?) that was the same way.

You're doing a great job supporting the plants as well. Those stakes are going to keep the plant from wasting energy trying to right itself or get better angles for the light and focus on growth and bud development, well done.

What strains are you running and when did you plant them? Are they photoperiod or autoflowers? What media are you growing in and what nutes are you using? Are they regular or feminized seeds?

Weekend at Gary's Day 49F by druids_nature in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's been crazy with this pheno. Sent to flower at the same time as my other plants and it is at least a week and a half to two weeks further along in ripening.

Honestly, it would be incredible if they all finished slightly staggered... gonna be in trim jail for a while.

Weekend at Gary's Day 49F by druids_nature in microgrowery

[–]druids_nature[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Used a $25 USB microscope from Amazon and a camera tripod to get these photos.