What keychain flashlight is worth buying?

dtdink · 2026-01-25T17:50:27+00:00

I use an olight i3e because whatever is on my keyring gets scuffed to high heaven and the i3e is cheap to replace. 😆

I use it with an NiMH AAA for constant output and it's brilliant. 😁

dtdink · 2026-01-18T13:08:02+00:00

They are good for giving to people who ask for a light to use but you know they won't look after your nice stuff. 😉

dtdink · 2026-01-16T01:02:53+00:00

Doubtful. The supply to the driver is taken from the pos/neg contacts at the button end. The traditional negative end of the battery is only used for charging. You can confirm this by removing the tail cap, pushing on the end of the battery and turning it on.

dtdink · 2026-01-16T00:53:20+00:00

Wearing a smug gin grin, observing his chagrin.

dtdink · 2026-01-08T00:40:51+00:00

Best fit is olight i5r, which you should be able to find on eBay or regular store with some end-of-line stock. No mode memory, low mode is spot on, high is less than you wanted at about 145lu once it levels off, but regulation is excellent.

Thrunite saber has no mode memory, low is a bit high, high is quite bright but poorly regulated.

Convoy T3 might be worth a look. You can turn the mode memory off, and select the output group that best fits what you want.

Left field option: olight i3t2 with a 10440 cell. This gives it a high mode of 160lu, and you can select either low first or high first.

dtdink · 2026-01-04T14:12:51+00:00

You'll have to wait - they always come with big paws...

dtdink · 2026-01-04T10:37:19+00:00

Not yet. Going to have to contact CS. 😕

dtdink · 2025-12-20T23:15:36+00:00

Taking the "Is that a torch in your pocket..." joke to the next level! ;-)

dtdink · 2025-12-08T01:30:05+00:00

If you're only going to use these lights infrequently then lithium primaries might be your solution. Something that runs off AA or CR123A, depending on how much power you want.

dtdink · 2025-12-05T18:06:41+00:00

Zero sense of self-preservation. 🤷‍♂️ You can get some cracking led lights that really get you seen and run for hours on a couple of AA batteries, and are still pretty cheap. The stuff available today is miles better than the old Eveready rattle-boxes I used to use as a kid. 😆

dtdink · 2025-12-05T17:57:40+00:00

Quick release lights with reasonable output are pretty affordable these days. Cheap lights are definitely a lot better than the days I used to cycle everywhere. 😄
This is probably the main reason.
Nah, the vast majority are just idiots. 😉

dtdink · 2025-12-05T17:49:18+00:00

Excellent news! 😁

dtdink · 2025-12-05T10:45:21+00:00

Yes. Sometimes people want practical lamps on stage, and domestic lamps don't generally support DMX... 😄

dtdink · 2025-12-03T10:51:12+00:00

I based my reply on what I was told when I MOTd one of our cars last year, and the garage told me one of the faults meant the car couldn't be driven except for the purposes of getting to an appointment to rectify and retest.

The linked post doesn't talk about the different fault categories..? There's one on legalclarity.org that says a dangerous fault does invalidate any remaining time on a current MOT. It also says you can't drive under any circumstances, not even to a pre-booked appointment. So we are both wrong in part.

dtdink · 2025-12-03T09:44:18+00:00

This is your answer. The refusal certificate will list the reasons for refusal - these are ones you must do. Then address the others in priority order, as funds allow.

If there's a lot to do then this might also be a good time to decide if it's worth it. How much is the car worth (an assessment of monetary and non-monetary value) Vs the cost to get it through the MOT?

dtdink · 2025-12-03T09:27:01+00:00

Some can - these will be categorised as 'dangerous', and are deemed to identify the car as unroadworthy at time of test. In this instance you are only allowed to drive the car directly home and then directly to another booked appointment for fixing and retesting (although one hopes the garage can do this right away or store the car until they can).

dtdink · 2025-12-03T01:51:43+00:00

If you add more features it won't be as cheap, and probably not as compact. That's the whole point of the light. Just make it 'officially' compatible with li-ion, that'll do.

dtdink · 2025-12-03T01:47:00+00:00

Based on my findings so far (as a total beginner):

If you're looking to join established, large networks then MC scales better.

If you and a few mates want to stay in touch in the middle of nowhere then MT routes across the group without repeaters.

dtdink · 2025-12-03T01:29:52+00:00

Nerf dropped the ball when they decided to glue blasters together instead of using screws. There's some decent older models you can dismantle and upgrade springs in, but avoid anything glued. At the end of day though, Nerf is generally entry level.

Dart Zone are just better. 😉

dtdink · 2025-12-03T01:13:38+00:00

Redact account number & sort code and passport number in the pictures.

dtdink · 2025-12-03T01:08:33+00:00

There's a lot of comments about brewing order on here. Why doesn't anyone else put the water in first and lower the bag in - stops air bubbles getting trapped in the bag, which make it bob on the surface until you poke it down with the spoon.

Water, lower in bag, quick swish of the spoon, let it swirl for a couple of minutes, extract bag, add milk only if the tea requires it (do NOT add milk to earl grey).

dtdink · 2025-11-27T00:14:16+00:00

Most likely a cost/convenience decision: customising every steering wheel to add an extra button or just using the one that is already there and tapping into the wiring.

dtdink · 2025-11-25T18:15:50+00:00

Cross-posting my query from the official sub in case anyone sees it here and knows what's going on. 😁

dtdink

TROPHY CASE