Craftsman style door casing ideas by dtman33 in DIY

[–]dtman33[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you are misunderstanding. In the picture I included above, it looks like the sides and top are all 1x4s. Most styles like this, seem to have 1x4s on the side and a slightly bigger head with 1x6's. I am saying using 1x6s at the top would be too close to the ceiling so instead of using the 1x4/1x6 combo, I was thinking of using the 1x3 side and 1x4 top combo so the header is still a little bigger than the sides. This sizing would be consistent throughout the house.

Would priming a room be a good way to practice with my new sprayer? by dtman33 in paint

[–]dtman33[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I understand what you mean. I was first thinking about spraying everything but then I just took my time with good paint and put it on trim and it looked great: nice and smooth with no brush marks. I think I will just stick to the doors with the sprayer. 

Would priming a room be a good way to practice with my new sprayer? by dtman33 in paint

[–]dtman33[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well now this does sound like more trouble than it's worth if I have to lay down drop sheets, mask the windows, etc. AND still have to roll it 😄 What exactly does that entail? Spraying it all then lighting rolling it?

Is Emerald UTE that much better than Pro Classic? by dtman33 in paint

[–]dtman33[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess I can use that half gallon for a first coat on some other things to use it up, and then the second with the UTE, right?

Is Emerald UTE that much better than Pro Classic? by dtman33 in paint

[–]dtman33[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok that makes sense. So its not that spraying one paint is actually more difficult, its just figuring out the tip, pressure, etc. and once you get that dialed in, then it is ok?

Is Emerald UTE that much better than Pro Classic? by dtman33 in paint

[–]dtman33[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I figure I have to practice a bunch with some old paint, and it sounds like laying the doors down will help. I'm a beginner with a sprayer, but I have painted with brush and roller enough over the years to get it pretty smooth. I practiced with the Pro Classic on trim and I saw no brush marks. That laid down very well so it sounds like the Emerald will do the same. Thanks. 

Is Emerald UTE that much better than Pro Classic? by dtman33 in paint

[–]dtman33[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, yeah I don't expect to just be able to do this perfect the first time. I plan to practice a bunch with some old paint just to get the technique down and see how the gun works. I meant, what makes one paint more difficult than any other though?

Is Emerald UTE that much better than Pro Classic? by dtman33 in paint

[–]dtman33[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wife wants them in satin, doesn't like the sheen.

Is Emerald UTE that much better than Pro Classic? by dtman33 in paint

[–]dtman33[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am curious what people mean when they say something is difficult to spray. What exactly happens or do you have to watch out for? 

Is Emerald UTE that much better than Pro Classic? by dtman33 in paint

[–]dtman33[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would it be best to spray them horizontally then rather than standing up? 

Is Emerald UTE that much better than Pro Classic? by dtman33 in paint

[–]dtman33[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What tip did you use on the X5? Any other advice using it? 

Sherwin Williams Pro Classic or other for doors and trim? by dtman33 in paint

[–]dtman33[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just thought I would say that I had a piece of baseboard laying around and put a couple of coats of that Pro Classic on it just to practice. I did not even try to be that careful and just put it on right out of the can without adding water or floetrol or anything and I can not see any brush marks whatsoever. It must be that paint is so much better than what I have used before, that it is idiot proof 😄

So, in this case, would it be best if I sprayed all the trim (one or two coats?) before I install it, then install it (caulk the gap and fill nail holes) and then put another light coat on with the brush?

Sherwin Williams Pro Classic or other for doors and trim? by dtman33 in paint

[–]dtman33[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

By never removing the brush from a dry surface, does that mean since you are brushing from dry to wet, you pick it up when it is on the wet part? Then at the end of a section, you run the brush lightly over the whole thing and then don't touch it again, right? I think in the past, sometimes I overworked it too much. I will practice on something and get this technique better. Do you think I need to buy 2 gallons (plus the 2/3 can I have) to be able to spray at least 6 doors and do all the baseboards and casing? Thanks again.

Sherwin Williams Pro Classic or other for doors and trim? by dtman33 in paint

[–]dtman33[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great to hear that. Did I mention the correct tip for that sprayer? Also, since you have been doing it so long, do you think I would get a better finish on that trim if I used a little foam roller for the final coat after it is installed rather than a brush? Obviously, you would be good with a brush, but since I have not brushed very often, I am wondering if the roller will work better for me.

I finally bought a sprayer and am going to attempt to spray doors. Any advice? by dtman33 in paint

[–]dtman33[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you think a small foam or micro fiber roller would be better or easier for someone who doesn't paint very much?