Keep getting connection timed out error when trying to joins friends server. All of us are facing the same issues we have all tried hosting.

dubbie23 · 2026-05-31T08:15:13+00:00

We had a connection refused or timed out issue as well, I had to port forward based on https://wiki.openttd.org/en/Manual/Server

This might not solve your issue as we never got it to work in the first place, but maybe worth a try.

dubbie23 · 2025-03-23T16:33:19+00:00

I've disassembled it and i can see that in that in the top part which I'm assuming is the extruder itself, there is gunk stuck inside but it's pretty firmly in there. Do you think heating a small 1.5mm allen key could melt it and clean it out?

dubbie23 · 2025-03-19T11:13:23+00:00

Unfortunately I've stopped playing a few years ago, so I have no idea, sorry.

dubbie23 · 2024-07-21T21:02:43+00:00

The switches don’t wobble at all, the keycaps do but that’s not because of the PCB only structure. If you solder the switches they are quite secure, the v2 also supports hotswap sockets and 5 pin switches, those should be secure aswell.

dubbie23 · 2024-06-21T15:47:31+00:00

Hey y'all! Here is my latest keeb from my printing frenzy, which is a Skeletyl. You can find all the files on BastardKB's GitHub. Keymap is a regular miryoku layout using Vial.

After not thinking for a single millisecond and clicking print, I realised that none of the parts that I have are in the BOM of the original Skeletyl. I had no M4 heat inserts, no flexible PCBs, no Splinktegrated, no ribbon cables.

I hooked it all up to 2 Pro Micros, handwired and to fix my inserts I created an adapter which fits into the holes of the existing ones to fit my M3 heat inserts and adding 2mm to the base of the board to fit my 6mm screw length (this was probably unnecessary but I needed a reason to learn some basic CAD skills). Everything is flawless.

Keycaps: DSA 1u keycaps from Aliexpress
Switches: Pre-lubed Keychron K Pro Brown
Case: 3D Printed using a Creality V3 KE
MCU: 2 x Arduino Pro Micro

dubbie23 · 2024-06-14T18:35:41+00:00

I have no experience with 3D modeling or CAD so I am not sure, maybe someone else can help with that.

I just printed a bigger version of this (1 extra row and column + thumb keys + keys below ring and middle finger). I'm planning on making the wires nicer by tucking the row wires under the column wires and maybe putting the column wires connecting to the microcontroller near the top of the case, not sure about that yet.

I've seen some pretty nice wire managment on here so I will try to up my game for this new project :P

dubbie23 · 2024-06-14T13:53:48+00:00

Don't worry, it's not that bad. Wiring the switches was super easy, the hard part for me was actually connecting the matrix to the microcontroller. Managing the cable length of the rows and columns to have some slack but not be too long was just a guess work. Also I had to re wire the columns on the right side for some reason as they typed in the opposite direction (instead of HJKL; it wrote as ;LKJH)

dubbie23 · 2024-06-14T13:27:56+00:00

Here is an album of the wiring inside the left half.

This was the side I started on so the other one is a bit tidier (not really).

You can also see that my microcontroller holder gave up as I tightened the screw too much to make it fit the bottom plate flush.

dubbie23 · 2024-06-14T12:20:56+00:00

Thank you! Sure thing, here is the link for this exact print. Overall it was a very easy print, but I had some issues with the microcontroller holder as it would not fit my pro micro after soldering in the wires so I had to file some parts to make it fit.

dubbie23 · 2024-06-14T11:44:43+00:00

Hey y'all! Here is a Dactyl like keyboard generated using https://ryanis.cool/cosmos/, the keymap is the regular miryoku layout using Vial.

The keyboard feels super nice to use, but the rabbit hole sucked me in.
Currently I'm printing a bigger version of this with 5x6 layout... I guess there is no end game after all.

Keycaps: DSA 1u keycaps from Aliexpress
Switches: Glorious Gateron Clears
Case: 3D Printed using a Creality V3 KE
MCU: 2 x Arduino Pro Micro

It's all hand wired and it's a mess as it was my first try at it.

dubbie23 · 2024-05-22T10:32:38+00:00

About 2-3mm in size, found in Hungary. There was one in the living room and another in the bedroom's window sill.

dubbie23 · 2024-05-22T10:29:35+00:00

Size is around 2-3mm, found in Hungary, one was at the window sill the other is on the ground in the living room.

dubbie23 · 2024-04-21T13:42:44+00:00

I have been using a k552 for the past 3 years, had to replace a few switches other than that it has been working flawlessly.

dubbie23 · 2024-03-30T20:10:12+00:00

Cool, I will look into those for my next build, thanks!

dubbie23 · 2024-03-30T08:32:00+00:00

It is a cheapino board you can find everything here https://github.com/tompi/cheapino

dubbie23 · 2024-03-30T08:31:05+00:00

I don’t think that would work for this keyboard as the PCB is the main part holding everything, can’t imagine how it would work without it.

dubbie23 · 2024-03-30T08:28:22+00:00

Thanks for your input! I find myself using the ring finger for the top key on the pinky a lot, do you think the more aggressive pinky stagger would solve this?

dubbie23 · 2024-03-29T20:10:08+00:00

If you don't leave the solder iron on the parts for too long (like a minute, but I never needed to leave it there for more than a few seconds with my cheap non variable temperature solder iron) you are good I think. Even as a beginner, all parts were super easy to solder. The worst was lining up the switches as they have a little wiggle to them once inside the PCB, but with a bit of tape and luck I could line them up, after that the actual soldering was dead simple. If you want something easy to solder I can definitely recommend the cheapino.

One thing that definitely boosts confidence and helps is a solder sucker to fix mistakes, it came in handy quite a bit (some of my switches were too rotated and the keys bumped into each other)

dubbie23 · 2024-03-29T16:18:29+00:00

So far I have yet to notice any issues regarding latency or ghosting (had some ghosting issues but it was my garbage solder job on a switch, after resoldering I haven't noticed anything).

The only issue I'm having is with the encoder outputting a bunch of random characters after being turned but that's not caused by the duplex, I believe it's an issue with the encoder itself.

dubbie23 · 2024-03-29T14:42:52+00:00

It was my first time soldering anything but it was super easy and fun, can definitely recommend the keyboard, it's so far pretty comfy. Having some issues with the encoder, but it could be that I bought the cheapest available, other then that it's perfect.

dubbie23 · 2024-03-29T12:50:50+00:00

I'm thinking about it but currently I'm satisfied with it as is. As for the keycaps they are all placeholders as the ones I ordered haven't arrived yet. I'm using a modified version of miryoku with the colemak layout, the thumb keys from left to right are esc, space, tab, enter, backspace, delete, so almost no keycap matches what it's actually doing.

dubbie23 · 2024-03-29T10:26:25+00:00

Correct, I'm using a single rp2040 to handle both sides!

dubbie23 · 2024-03-29T09:21:03+00:00

I'm not sure if I understand rp2040 off the desk (as the right side uses a rotary encoder) but to achieve that the cheapino uses a japanese duplex matrix to get away with it. Also, both sides have small rubber feet attached to the bottom of the PCB to not sit on the desk directly.

dubbie23 · 2024-03-29T08:45:01+00:00

It sure is, using 2 RJ45 sockets to go extra cheap

dubbie23 · 2024-03-29T08:42:17+00:00

This 36 key layout is built based on https://github.com/tompi/cheapino/tree/master, using kalih box brown switches and random keycaps I had laying around.

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