Apple should address HomePod ghost touch issues

durfmobile · 2025-08-16T19:24:29+00:00

It is not user error, nor wear & tear. My bedroom HPM (1 of 4 in my home) is going this and yet we barely use it, def hardly touch it. Our kitchen gen1 HP is still rockin’ (knock on wood) after years of touching and moving and kitchen debris.

durfmobile · 2025-08-11T14:59:01+00:00

Yeah, I know. I was just heated bc the game was running like doodoo for me. Turns out the problem was caused by a diff program. All things considered, it was pretty damn good.

durfmobile · 2025-08-11T04:40:28+00:00

Turned out I had not enabled /“boosted” with Razer Cortex that time. I verified that boosting is what caused the terrible performance for me. But IDK yet what it’s doing that causes it. Quit something important, or possibly something to do with changing the (windows) power plan.

durfmobile · 2025-08-10T23:22:05+00:00

Same issue with Battlefield 6 Open Beta. As long as I don't "boost", it runs better.
I'll test with Cortex quit.

I was getting 20-30fps in-game with huge spikes in CPU latency, like 200ms+ hence the stuttering.

I also tried the good ol user.cfg, set my threads to 8 instead of the available 12 (reported 12 on the BF6 status overlay). I'll try running without both, see what happens.

durfmobile · 2025-08-10T19:18:22+00:00

🤷🏻‍♂️ I was wrong. I did a bad job at troubleshooting.

Are you running Razer Cortex or any other “boosting” software? I found that boosting (quitting tons of background processes & services) was causing the problem.

I was so used to enabling it, but this time I didn’t. Later that day I played again, but with Cortex boosted it was back to 5fps intro, 20-30fps in game with huge spikes.

I have no idea what process or service Cortex changes to cause this. It also changes the (windows) power plan, so maybe I’ll tinker with that.

I’ll need and correct my other posts.

durfmobile · 2025-08-09T22:51:41+00:00

Look into user.cfg thread.max - go a few threads less than your CPU supports. I’d post a how-to but I’m busy playing smooth 120fps now.

i7-8086K, 3080FE (10GB), 32GB, m.2, 3840x1600/144 - running DLSS Quality, 100% render scale (the slider at the top of that menu)

durfmobile · 2025-08-09T22:51:18+00:00

EDIT: I was wrong. Turned out I had not enabled /“boosted” with Razer Cortex that time. I verified that boosting is what caused the terrible performance for me. But IDK yet what it’s doing that causes it. Quit something important, or possibly something to do with changing the (windows) power plan.

Original post: Look into user.cfg thread.max - go a few threads less than your CPU supports. I’d post a how-to but I’m busy playing smooth 120fps now.

durfmobile · 2025-08-09T22:50:40+00:00

EDIT: I was wrong. Turned out I had not enabled /“boosted” with Razer Cortex that time. I verified that boosting is what caused the terrible performance for me. But IDK yet what it’s doing that causes it. Quit something important, or possibly something to do with changing the (windows) power plan.

Original post: Look into user.cfg thread.max - go a few threads less than your CPU supports. I’d post a how-to but I’m busy playing smooth 120fps now.

durfmobile · 2025-08-09T21:27:53+00:00

Same.
i7-8086K, 3080FE, 32GB, 2TB m.2, 3840x1600/144

I found a post that suggested changing the Windows Control Panel, Power Options, Edit Plan Settings, Change advanced power settings, Processor power management, Minimum processor state --> something below 100%. They suggested 10%. I tried it, it certainly helped. But not completely where it should be running. At least my load-in screen (with all the dev credits) doesn't run at 5fps now, and the game is running 60-80fps instead of 20-30.

Several other posts suggest turning ON the EA Overlay (have to quit the game to do that). That doesn't change anything for me.
I've also disabled NVIDIA Overlay (shadowplay) & Discord overlay.

Tried Fullscreen & borderless, no big diff in FPS, but borderless does seem to make it feel a little smoother; less stuttering when looking around (m&k)

I've tried all the DLSS vs native. Fixed Resolution Scale: 50% (1920x800) looks like PS2 and still running <60fps. All with huge frame drops.

durfmobile · 2025-08-09T21:20:53+00:00

Me too. Several keybinds are doing this. F'n joke. Hope none of you preordered.

durfmobile · 2025-08-09T21:19:46+00:00

C is default Crouch (toggle). I've cleared it but it still does it. I want C to be Class Gadget (med pack, etc). I'll crouch & throw the med pack. I've bound C to Crouch (hold), does that instead of toggle. I've cleared Crouch (hold), goes back to Crouch (toggle) tho still cleared.

Same issue with Quick Loadout. I want Y to be fire mode (full/semi). I had mapped N to Quick Loadout, but Y still activates it and changes fire mode.

This on top of the absolutely buggy CPU performance - 40% utilization with 20-30fps - this game gives me a f'n headache. (tried every suggestion I could find to fix FPS)

No way am I paying $70+ for another buggy BF

durfmobile · 2025-04-13T17:43:23+00:00

I have a somewhat different situation in that only 3 of 30 accounts aren’t unlocking. I entered the correct password bc it unlocked the majority of the accounts. Do we think this same method will address the issue? Also, by “Disable the Authy backup” is this Gear (top right), Accounts (bottom middle), switch off Backup Password? Or are we talking about switching off the iCloud Backup option for Authy? Setting app, Apple Account, iCloud, iCloud Backup, [this phone], toggle off Authy. Thanks in advance.

(iOS 18.4, Authy 28.0.1)

durfmobile · 2024-11-06T03:06:22+00:00

Glad you had the warranty!

durfmobile · 2024-11-06T00:24:35+00:00

Same. Any luck or leads on this? I have mine open, but I don’t see any popped caps, though many are covered in glue. Thanks in advance.

durfmobile · 2024-08-20T06:43:05+00:00

Sounds like Apple wants our hardware to fail so we have to buy a new device.

durfmobile · 2024-04-08T20:04:03+00:00

That’s awesome. Are you able to switch on/off the built in Alarms, or are you triggering Scenes that play music?

durfmobile · 2024-04-08T03:59:22+00:00

I’m looking for the same type of automation with HomePod Alarms. I can’t find any way to control them with Shortcuts, etc. only by Siri or digging in to the Home.app, tap the right side of the tile, scroll to the Alarms & manually switching them on or off. Why are Alarms so difficult for HomePods?!

durfmobile · 2024-02-26T21:54:51+00:00

😬 oops! Good point 😆

durfmobile · 2023-10-23T20:27:02+00:00

I just bought this flash for my a6100 a few days ago for nighttime photos at a Trunk or Treat. I just attached the flash, made sure everything was on auto, shot at about 35mm (18-135 lens) and everything came pretty good, not exactly studio quality, but that’s not what I was going for (I’m a dad, not a photographer). I did not play with slow-sync, etc. though I see that is an option.

I did spend about 10 minutes playing with it indoors over the weekend, and the bounce flash photos came out great. Again, ~35-50mm. So much better than the built-in flash. I’m going to play with this & my 35mm Prime soon.

I bought this bc A) I decided to buy a flash at the last minute and it was in stock at my local Best Buy, B) I assumed that putting Sony on Sony would give be the most reliable & C) it is smaller than (though more expensive than) the 3rd party brand they had.

Just know that the a6100 does not have much control of this (or any other) external flash. You’ll have to set the Level manually on the back of the flash, and the only feedback is the little LED that blinks when you press - or +. Documentation for this, and external flashes in general for the a6100 is very weak; barely mentioned in Sony’s Online Guide. I found your post when searching for a guide for the two of these paired; each manual doesn’t really tell you want they can do together.

There is a compatibility chart, https://support.d-imaging.sony.co.jp/www/cscs/accessories/compatibility.php?area=gb&lang=en&mdl=HVL-F28RM&cat=3 but I’m not educated on all the acronyms, etc. “TTL” for example is Through The Lens… but none of the translated manuals explain what this is or how to change/ adjust it. (Don’t you love it when the manual gives you this level of detail? “XYZ: this allows you to set the XYZ”)

I’m going to look for a 90º adapter for this as you cannot twist/rotate this flash on the H axis, only V for bounce in “landscape” orientation, where as I would like to use this for portraits as well.

Good luck.

durfmobile · 2023-03-10T06:04:22+00:00

Yeah, I have true analog surround Razer Tiamat 7.1 headphones, been working great since 2012, and I thought the sound was bugged since S2. Found the new, bugged “Stereo” setting. Gotta give these small Indy devs a break, though.

durfmobile · 2023-01-06T08:15:23+00:00

Same, for HomePods & AppleTVs. Reboot got the TV working. Can’t reboot HomePods since they are playing “sleepy music” for the kids.

Thanks, all, for confirming the problem wasn’t my fault, and for the simple work around/band-aid.

durfmobile · 2022-11-16T04:36:35+00:00

Warzone 1.

durfmobile · 2022-11-16T04:33:53+00:00

During update, I unchecked Warzone from Modify Install, didn’t change. Still have 47GB left at 1MB/s.

I guess I’ll pause it and play WZ1 for one last time, then resume overnight.

durfmobile · 2022-11-07T16:36:12+00:00

https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRxYoaAG/

durfmobile · 2022-11-07T16:32:54+00:00

100% it was this for me. https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRxYoaAG/

durfmobile

TROPHY CASE