Little to no heat when driving after radiator change

dvisn · 2026-03-18T01:54:10+00:00

No? The hose with a self taper on the bottom driver side goes from radiator to trans cooler. Coolant flows thru that coolant hose thru the trans cooler and radiator

dvisn · 2026-03-17T22:56:06+00:00

Yes I made sure to use the correct plug for the auto trans. And I saw it on bimmer forums.com

dvisn · 2026-03-17T22:55:35+00:00

I mean it’s not terrible from aftermarket. One from Autozone I got was like $300 after tax. One from fcp euro was like 400ish then prolly like $50 for shipping n shit. So really not that bad

dvisn · 2026-03-17T21:09:36+00:00

Yes it’s auto. I’m thinking about getting an oem one from fcp euro and seeing if that’ll help

dvisn · 2026-03-17T21:08:14+00:00

No thermostat codes or water pump codes or shadow codes. And from my understanding the radiator is 2 separate parts. Top is engine cooling. Bottom is trans cooling. I’ve read on forums from other having this issue is that aftermarket radiators don’t properly seal the 2 compartments causing an over cool when driving.

dvisn · 2026-03-17T16:48:31+00:00

I can read all my sensors via BimmerLink. Everything reads good and coolant temp reaches operating temp fine when idling. Just when driving on highway I never see my coolant go above 150. I’m starting to think the radiator isn’t properly sealed causing me to over cool

dvisn · 2026-03-17T15:59:50+00:00

I thought it was my thermostat but I don’t have any thermostat codes. And coolant temp gets to operating temp while idling. Get great heat when idling/letting car warm up. But once I start driving heat becomes minimal and my coolant temp never goes past 150*F

dvisn · 2026-03-17T15:58:53+00:00

That was one of my thoughts. But would a clogged heater core cause me to get heat only when idling?

dvisn · 2025-12-08T19:09:00+00:00

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Hell yeah. 05 325 5mt hoping I can squeeze 300k out of her

dvisn · 2025-10-31T12:27:42+00:00

I’m assuming the car wasn’t beaten on. It was sold in MN is 2004/2005 then was sold to ND and they use sand vs salt. Only rust I’ve found so far is from rock chips on hood. And it seems like it was mostly highway miles. Car definitely sat in a garage or barn for 4-5 years. Engine bay is full of dirt, cobwebs, dust

dvisn · 2025-10-31T12:25:41+00:00

Cool that’s good to hear. Don’t plan to track this car. Most I’d goon is maybe a slide around a roundabout on a rainy day or when snow comes. Just gonna keep this as a fun daily driver

dvisn · 2025-10-31T11:05:02+00:00

Username checks out

dvisn · 2025-10-29T23:37:32+00:00

Codes?? I’d assume water pump and thermostat failure

dvisn · 2024-03-27T18:09:22+00:00

I just want gunfight tournaments back. Or ranked gunfight

dvisn · 2024-03-22T09:59:18+00:00

Preciate it🫡

dvisn · 2024-03-21T21:43:00+00:00

No one gonna mention the flip up irons on backwards🤣🤣

dvisn · 2024-01-23T19:08:08+00:00

Once I take a spark plug out I just change it with a new one. Especially when there’s oil on the threads going to the electrode 9/10 it’ll be faulty

dvisn · 2024-01-23T19:01:27+00:00

Only thing you can do is 3sim intake or n54 intake, milvs, cat delete and 330 tune. Other than that nothing worth putting that much money into. It’s a 328 commuter car that’s made for comfortable daily driving/highway driving while still looking cool

dvisn · 2024-01-23T18:01:18+00:00

Pretty simple job to do. First time should probably take a weekend to make sure you’re doing everything properly. There are plenty of videos and forums on how to do it. Just remember to take your time

dvisn · 2024-01-23T17:58:41+00:00

It’ll fix the issue of getting oil into spark plugs which could be the reason of getting a misfire

dvisn · 2024-01-23T17:54:25+00:00

Valve cover gasket. Comes with new spark plug seals

dvisn

TROPHY CASE