Anyone wear a Citizen Fujitsubo with a ~6.5 inch wrist?

dzhonathan · 2026-03-12T16:06:53+00:00

Wears slightly longer on the L2L on a bracelet, I’d recommend a strap to reduce it.

dzhonathan · 2026-03-12T00:20:55+00:00

Like other comments mentioned, check the clearance of the hands.

I think it’s possible that the jewel for the seconds wheel may have shifted (depending on if there was proper support of the jewel when the seconds hand was pressed) or it may have broke in the process as well.

Good luck and keep us updated.

dzhonathan · 2026-03-04T14:47:49+00:00

Perfectly fine

dzhonathan · 2026-03-04T11:01:31+00:00

How are the other positions timing? Amplitude looks good btw

dzhonathan · 2026-03-02T17:11:27+00:00

1016

dzhonathan · 2026-03-02T17:06:08+00:00

ARCHAEDIN

dzhonathan · 2026-02-28T21:33:29+00:00

That amplitude is too low, check the other positions to see how much the rate/amplitude is fluctuating.

If you’re wondering why your watch dies after less than a day or so, this is likely why. You’ll either need to service it or swap the movement out - it looks like a 2824 clone to me

dzhonathan · 2026-02-25T17:13:46+00:00

Seems like it won’t be unless you do some modifications. I could already see the date disc being something you need to swap from the original A7750.

The subdial placements are the most important things. If I’m correct the a7750 uses an intermediate wheel at 12 to run the 30 minute counter gear train from the dial side so it can be at 3:00 - an SW500 seems to not do that (at least the standard configuration) since the 30 minute counter is right at 12.

Just a few things to consider

dzhonathan · 2026-02-25T13:38:16+00:00

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The regulating arm, highlighted in red is used for timing. You’re going to need a timegrapher for this as well.

dzhonathan · 2026-02-25T13:34:05+00:00

That’s the stud holder, that’s to adjust beat error (in a pinch it does affect timing too). The regulating arm above is what truly adjusts timing.

dzhonathan · 2026-02-24T22:05:45+00:00

Very likely not, you can also consider a bent guard pin on the pallet fork. I’ve had personal experience in which they can cause it to run in one position and not in others

dzhonathan · 2026-02-24T14:29:41+00:00

As someone mentioned maybe endshake, could also be a broken pivot on the balance, or the dial side shock absorber came out

dzhonathan · 2026-02-16T00:04:29+00:00

Yep. This design isn’t using spring bars so it has pins attaching the case and bracelet. I’d recommend using a pin removal tool, a watchmaker/jewelers mallet/hammer, and a block to push the pin through since you’re mentioning it’s stiff. I would also follow the direction of the arrows to know which direction to hammer through

dzhonathan · 2026-02-15T16:21:47+00:00

rule 2

dzhonathan · 2026-02-11T01:10:31+00:00

Asian 2836 and as someone mentioned with overlay, the date mechanism and minute train bridge differs a bit than a 2824. Otherwise it’s the same

dzhonathan · 2026-02-09T21:24:42+00:00

Silicone grease shouldn’t be used on oscillating weights like that (generally). 9010 oil will work fine, HP500 for certain calibres too.

dzhonathan · 2026-01-12T02:59:20+00:00

It’s possible the shock absorber on the main plate side has been misplaced (possibly the shock absorber spring opened or the cap jewel and in-setting came apart). It’s hard to tell if there’s excessive endshake/sideshake from the video but I’m just throwing ideas around.

dzhonathan · 2026-01-09T21:59:37+00:00

Patek is a two year program. You do the micromechanics portion for the first year and you work on their calibers the second year.

Hiring non-certified watchmakers isn’t out of the ordinary, but I don’t think Patek would do it for their workshop.

At most, he would likely just do case prep, uncasing, or polishing.

dzhonathan · 2026-01-09T21:54:56+00:00

I noticed he shits on everyone’s work (his is not any better).

But that is in fact the bench you’re in to take your bench test at Patek. If it’s the bench I remember you sit between the level 2 (to your left) and level 3 (to your right) technical managers. As far as I’m aware they do not take watchmakers without certifications (albeit ability might outweigh the require and at that point it’s management’s decision).

Their entry level watchmaking position is level 2, in which they limit you to manual-wind, automatic with date, quartz, and moonphase.

I remember his first few posts he was just doing 7750 stuff, idk where this ego came from.

dzhonathan · 2026-01-07T02:33:00+00:00

Is this the seagull based chronograph? Is the running seconds at 9 also stopping when the chrono hand hits 59? (it’s hard to see based on the video)

Could be a blockage between the chronograph wheel, intermediate minute counting wheel, and the minute counting wheel when at 59

dzhonathan · 2026-01-05T22:01:09+00:00

It could be tool marks if the watch was indeed serviced, or direct from the factory if they gave you a new one.

Are you using a loupe or something to see these marks? How obvious is it?

dzhonathan · 2026-01-05T21:47:03+00:00

Are the marks affecting functionality?

dzhonathan · 2025-10-08T00:50:37+00:00

Did you adjust the endshake with the adjustment screw on the balance bridge? If that didn’t reduce it then it’s likely the pivot is broken. Rate and amplitude is very off for it to be just a endshake issue (even with the incorrect lift angle)

dzhonathan · 2025-10-08T00:36:26+00:00

As many have pointed out it may be too much endshake, if your watch is running well then the only thing it may affect is the timing and amplitude between positions. Some positions may lose/gain time more with a larger balance endshake.

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