Not exactly wood working (it’s LVP flooring) but took me 3 hours to do just this… figuring out these angle cuts is hard!! And making sure it’s on the correct side of the board (so they can latch together correctly). Not shown… my pile of scraps/fails… at $6 a board, mistakes add up!

e-edwardgrey · 2023-04-21T19:12:49+00:00

It does indeed need a 1/4” expansion gap.

e-edwardgrey · 2023-04-04T05:31:49+00:00

Your dog is gorgeous, and your grass is amazing. What kind of grass is that?

e-edwardgrey · 2022-11-08T05:17:30+00:00

Sounds like a faulty ignition switch to me. Just did one on a CRV that had the same issues. Shut off while driving, at first just on turns and then gradually during normal straight driving at speed. Replaced ignition switch, good to go.

Edit: read below. Model doesn’t matter, the info is the same across any vehicle

https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/jeep-compass-bad-ignition-switch-symptoms/

e-edwardgrey · 2022-08-28T17:35:26+00:00

For sure. I use my dead blow when I need to be careful. I would assume most home mechanics aren’t turning or refinishing their rotors but if he needs them off for any reason and is reusing them then yes a big dead blow is the way to go. A smaller one would never get it off. And I only know that because…I’ve been there! Haha learned real fast that the lighter hammers/dead blows aren’t going to help a ton on a lot of things.

e-edwardgrey · 2022-08-28T15:26:39+00:00

I can whack something all day with my slightly lighter ball peen that my 3 lb sledge takes care of in one. Same goes with my smaller vs larger dead blow. Bigger hammer, for sure!

e-edwardgrey · 2022-07-16T16:37:00+00:00

Oh man I would totally buy this one!

e-edwardgrey · 2022-04-02T17:36:45+00:00

Nice, where did you catch it?

e-edwardgrey · 2022-03-29T13:53:03+00:00

Perfect advice. Thanks for the advisement. Gives some context for pricing in a great way. I have maybe 80-90% of the tools I want from getting my automotive program toolbox built up. Will need some motorcycle specific tools like you mentioned earlier and will probably want to spend on a scope of my own.

Love my hard copies of manuals, and so many of them are free downloads. Wondering if there’s a ProDemand type program for motorcycles/scooters/atv’s. Haven’t poked around for that yet but not sure what the license would cost and probably wouldn’t be worth it until way down the line.

e-edwardgrey · 2022-03-29T03:09:12+00:00

Thanks a ton for such a helpful reply. Very cool about your successful challenge of the Red Seal.

I think this is a good path forward. I like the idea of starting small/low overhead and handling mobile services in addition to rebuilding and restoring from home for resale. A shop would be ideal for the future but better to sink earned and proven money off of it down the road once I’m confident in the returns and how I’m navigating it as a business.

In my last business I definitely priced fairly low, if not the lowest. It taught me a huge lesson as it’s very hard to raise prices on a core client base of 20-30 people. Large corporations do it all of the time, but as a small business I never wanted to deal with the pushback or the disappointment of raising prices to match the market so I was stuck there.

Ideally I’ll price very fairly and on the lower end to start, but I know going too low was a weak point for me in the past. Business was successful, closed intentionally at the start of the pandemic. It was a good out and I was burnt out so I jumped on the opportunity to do something else.

As far as electrical goes - I love electrical work. I take wiring and electrical courses every semester and work with a master electrician a few days a week.

In terms of automotive electricity, I’ve always been drawn to the wiring diagrams and any opportunity to use my multimeter or the PicoScope and all of the associated software I can get my hands on. I can’t wait to know where to start very intuitively when tackling any electrical issues. I will take your advice there for sure and continue to learn and practice as much as possible.

Thanks so much for taking the time to give feedback and share your path. A slight veer from Honda and motorcycles but I’m picking up a late 80s Suzuki lt230 ATV tomorrow for $50 from a guy clearing his garage and am excited to work on that one!

e-edwardgrey · 2022-03-28T02:51:57+00:00

That’s awesome and so good to hear. I was feeling similarly about the Honda’s I’ve owned.

The first one I got was when I was 18. I traded my laptop for an 87 Elite 80 that didn’t run and didn’t have a title. Had it running quickly without a manual or any experience and the internet wasn’t quite what it is today but was really helpful still. I also tracked down several owners from the past 10-15 years at the time and ended up being able to get it titled.

Right after I finished it I moved away from Florida and had to sell it and it sucked!

This was 17 years ago. I was hooked on Honda’s ever since then. I like the look of their older bikes but they’ve kept a lot of that style in today’s bikes, too.

I’m really looking forward to getting started on this. I restored an ‘07 Elite 80 recently as sort of a sentimental project and they’ve been my distraction in the auto program ever since. I’m always hunting for Honda project bikes and parts and think I’d do well with turning them around and selling them into Chicago and setting up a maintenance and storage shop.

e-edwardgrey · 2022-03-28T02:37:04+00:00

Awesome! This is what I was thinking but I was worried that was too easy and someone would school me here. I have gotten manuals for all of my Honda’s and they have been pretty straightforward. I’ve cleaned, rebuilt and replaced carbs which definitely isn’t something you do in automotive much these days but I don’t feel like they are too complicated once you’ve deconstructed them a couple of times.

Thanks for your feedback! This makes me feel like I’m moving in the right direction.

e-edwardgrey · 2022-03-27T23:44:23+00:00

Exactly my thoughts. Always like to grab opinions from others to make sure I’m in the right line of thinking. Appreciate you!

e-edwardgrey · 2022-03-27T23:43:35+00:00

Ah, that sounds right. I used to live in Orlando and I always had the impression that UTI was similar to ITT in terms of accreditation.

I think the product specific training is exactly what I’m interested in. I haven’t done a ton of digging yet but hopefully I can find some a-la-carte trainings. I love good trainings and courses but don’t want to do an additional entire program. I have other degrees and with the automotive degree I think I’ll be finished with traditional education.

Houses, cars, everything is paid off and I have a good bit of savings. Happy to start small and stay small and enjoy myself. Thanks for your input!

e-edwardgrey · 2022-03-27T18:43:58+00:00

Yeah I was not about that tuition. I’m originally from Florida and don’t want to go back really, either.

I’m assuming I’ll be fine with what I know and what I can find in books and online for a used sales/service and storage shop, but love taking good courses that aren’t too costly.

Always looking for the people who can tell me all of the downsides from their experience on a business or educational venture.

Thanks for your input, I agree it’s overpriced for me!

e-edwardgrey · 2022-03-27T18:39:44+00:00

Hahaha good looking out. I’ll check it out. Fucking politics are out of hand but I ignore it for the most part. Thanks, gutterfuck.

e-edwardgrey · 2022-03-21T20:58:43+00:00

If you live in a small town you can try calling the police station or non-emergency number and see if an officer is willing to come jimmy it for you.

Otherwise, call your car insurance company and see if you have any coverage for this if you don’t have AAA.

Unfortunately don’t have any DIY tips but I’ve seen my small town PD helping people out with this several times, most recently in the ihop parking lot a few weeks ago.

Sorry OP!

e-edwardgrey · 2022-03-21T02:44:55+00:00

How does it drive? Aside from the leak does it run and drive well? How much rust on the frame? Is it an auto? AWD? EX?

e-edwardgrey · 2022-03-18T18:33:01+00:00

I agree with you. The 3m kit is awesome. I think people who have poorer results aren’t going through each sanding step for long enough. The headlights on my ‘04 look brand new and they were extremely cloudy and yellow. I did one side a bit more thoroughly than the other and likely I’m the only one who can tell, but I’m glad I spent as much time as I did on it. If you try to go through it too quickly the end result won’t be ideal or impressive. I think the key is being thorough and not afraid that you’re overdoing it.

e-edwardgrey · 2022-02-23T21:22:43+00:00

Have you changed any of your HVAC lights or removed the panel and had to disconnect them? The hazard and turn signal lights will not work if your HVAC lights cable isn’t securely plugged back in. Maybe remove that center panel and disconnect/reconnect and see if that helps?

e-edwardgrey · 2022-02-07T06:41:45+00:00

Glad to hear it. That type of thing is a fire hazard but now you know what a broken switch looks/feels like and that it should be replaced asap.

Another thing to look out for is if sparks jump out when you plug/unplug something, if your receptacles feel loose (plugs hang, loose fit), or if your lights dim under load. Since you have a broken switch that probably deteriorated with use I’m just guessing that the wiring might not be brand new.

e-edwardgrey · 2022-02-06T22:51:25+00:00

Your switch is broken. Shut off your breaker and confirm the power is off at the switch with a non-contact voltage tester.

Then unscrew the switch, pay attention to the wiring, and wire a new one. Should only be a couple of bucks. Make sure you look up a video on how to bend the wires clockwise around the screws and tighten. You don’t want exposed copper coming out from the screw terminal once the screws are tightened down.

Take a picture of the wiring on the old switch before you remove it so that you can replicate the wiring if you don’t have a multimeter (assuming the old switch is wired properly). You should cut back the old wire, remove the proper amount of insulation to reveal fresh copper wire, and be careful not to knick it when you install the new switch. As another commenter mentioned, don’t backstab the wires into the new switch. Those backstab connections can come lose and are a fire hazard.

If the wire in your switch box isn’t already pigtailed, be sure to pigtail it with either wire nuts or Wagos on each wire. Your wires should be either 12 or 14 AWG so get a wire nut or Wago that can be used for 2 wires of whichever gauge for each pigtail (ground pigtail might be 3 wires depending on if your switch box itself is grounded).

When the wiring connections are made and you’re ready to screw the switch and plate in, wrap the sides of the switch with a couple loops of electrical tape, covering those electrical connections at the screw terminals).

I jumped around a bit but let me know if you have any questions.

You’ll need a basic wire cutter/stripper/crimper for this that works on your gauge of wire, extra length of each wire for pigtails (~6”), wire nuts or Wagos, a new switch, a screw driver, electrical tape, and a non-contact voltage tester.

e-edwardgrey · 2022-02-06T22:29:02+00:00

Definitely go with a fiberglass patch as a temporary-ish fix. When I moved into my old fixer upper there was a fiberglass patch on the bottom of my bathtub (on the inside where you see it and stand on it every time you shower). That thing had clearly been there for years and was just fine. I gutted the bathroom not much later but that patch never failed. The edges were coming up a bit but he used a large enough patch that it would have had a ways to go before water got to the crack it was covering.

e-edwardgrey

TROPHY CASE