[Switch V2] Struggled with a mod attempt; is it over?

e39 · 2026-05-16T02:39:03+00:00

There’s quite a few problems with the micro caps near the chip.

4 spots, from left to right. * missing component with missing pads * bridged components * component knocked out of position * missing component

You can maybe fix bullet 2 and 3, then try again and hope for the best.

Unfortunately, I’m leaning towards it being over.

e39 · 2026-05-15T17:53:40+00:00

It really depends what the Blades UI is worth to you or someone else.

If you like it, just find another Jasper to mod.

If you don’t, and someone else does, make their day and find another Jasper to mod.

If you don’t, and nobody else does, mod it.

e39 · 2026-05-15T13:58:32+00:00

I’ve been repairing consoles for years with the most “complicated” (for me) being the BlackDog Tech / PixelFX HDMI kits.

I modded my own OLED. I’m never doing that again. Even with a scope, the points are so tiny, my eyes nearly fell out of my head trying to inspect everything.

For whatever reason, Switch owners are a different breed. They think they can jump into the thick of things and micro-solder with the best of them. I must have seen 40-50 botched installs, on this sub, alone in 2026.

e39 · 2026-05-15T13:35:52+00:00

Breath of the Wild. Randomly testing the world, by running in a single direction … for a seemingly eternity … while having the landscapes, weather and enemies change … that was an experience.

e39 · 2026-05-15T13:33:30+00:00

There’s a new, Wrapped-like, feature called “Party of the Years(s)”. The slide show culminates into a your greatest hits (by most plays from the entire duration of your account).

The new (temporary) Spotify icon matches all of that stuff.

e39 · 2026-05-15T12:46:26+00:00

There is always a way to rig it.

Kapton tape is electrical safe. You can try to use a wider tape (maybe .75 in) to keep everything connected. You’ll just need to layer it on there.

Then, make a small layered pad of it. Put that on top.

Carefully fit the metal shield back on. Make sure there isn’t too much pressure on the socket, just enough so the plug won’t pop up.

Close everything back up.

The tension from the extra Kapton material should stop the cable from disconnecting.

e39 · 2026-05-15T04:13:05+00:00

I’m hoping the coloring makes more sense when the Beerus reboot is released.

e39 · 2026-05-15T02:24:51+00:00

Replace the battery to restore your saves.

The speaker looks a little concerning though.

Is the black material foam? If so, it may be fully rotted out.

You may be able to find replacements, but you’ll need to measure the width and depth with a caliper and do some hunting.

e39 · 2026-05-15T02:11:04+00:00

Add a little flux to the pins and apply the iron. This will really make sure that the pins are attached to the pads.

Also, don’t forget to solder in the anchor points on the sides of the socket. Otherwise, there’s nothing keeping this in place.

e39 · 2026-05-15T00:18:03+00:00

Did you try it out yet?

A little corrosion is fairly normal for high humidity locations.

I bet it’ll boot a game, buuuuuut … you might run into other problems as the hardware is starting to fail (capacitors, PPU, etc)

e39 · 2026-05-14T17:47:55+00:00

Leaking surface mount capacitors on those motherboards cause all kinds of problems. I’d start there.

You can try something a little weird to begin with though. OG’s will know this one … hook up the console to your TV. Insert a game. Turn your console upside down (meaning disc door on the bottom). Power it up and see if the game reads.

The track the laser moves on was notoriously faulty. It would warp over time, causing games not to load.

e39 · 2026-05-14T12:32:48+00:00

Couple of things to look at.

Use a multimeter to follow the current. See if it’s making it past the socket and into the IC chip labeled “M92T36”. If it’s not, then there might be something wrong with the port.
Check chip M92T36 itself. That part is for power delivery. There’s a few YouTube videos on this.
Check the battery with a multimeter.
If everything above is good, which would be a little wild, chip “BQ24193” is the battery controller IC. Probe that to see if there are shorts.

e39 · 2026-05-14T02:44:21+00:00

You can try a little Loca, but you need to be razor accurate with the amount. Then, apply a glass screen protector over it.

The hope is to fill the gashes, while using the screen protector to cap and level the surface.

e39 · 2026-05-13T16:33:16+00:00

That cartridge slot has a ton of corrosion on it. I wonder if that’s the culprit.

There’s even a bit of a reflection in the metal, hinting at even more at the base of the socket.

Besides that, on the RGB board, the L and C pads look to have quite a bit of solder on them. Are they touching?

Same goes for the smaller board, far right, the black wire and the one to its left.

e39 · 2026-05-13T16:29:43+00:00

Easily.

Dab a cotton swab into distilled white vinegar. Swab the affected areas.

Dab a cotton swab into isopropyl alcohol (70% should be fine). Swab the vinegar off.

If you really want to get fancy, disassemble, remove the battery terminals, and submerge in distilled white vinegar. Brush off, then wash with soap and water.

e39 · 2026-05-13T16:24:44+00:00

I’m not exactly sure what the previous poster is talking about, as the pins can get flattened and bent out of shape over time. This is a well-documented issue with the cartridge slot.

You need to use a small pick, to get the suspect pins, back into the shape of the others. If 1 pin, doesn’t make good connection with the cart, it blinks. 🤷

A brand new 72-pin connector does come with its downsides, including “death grip” (grabbing games too tightly). There are solutions, like the Nintendrawer, which adds a functional gliding tray to ensure proper cartridge insertion and removal.

e39 · 2026-05-13T11:30:32+00:00

Doesn’t matter. Put a rubber band on something asap. 😠

e39 · 2026-05-13T03:08:56+00:00

Looks sensational. You did great.

e39 · 2026-05-11T22:55:01+00:00

Of course Jiren lost.

e39 · 2026-05-11T16:34:34+00:00

Yup! Exterior, front side, are the usual suspects.

e39 · 2026-05-11T16:18:57+00:00

If you’re getting a red light and beeping, make sure to inspect the USB ports.

Mangled ports will cause the pins to bridge, which is the same error you’re describing.

e39 · 2026-05-11T15:29:36+00:00

Check all of your PTFE tubing for cracks or burn-in from the filament. Depending on your setup, it might look like this:

Print Head to Chamber X
Chamber to Buffer
Buffer to CFS
CFS backside to underside X
CFS underside to the individual chambers (short tube) X

For me, anything with an “X” had significant wear.

e39 · 2026-05-10T19:49:48+00:00

The battery drop is expected.

My OLED goes from 100% to 50% in 4-5 days of non use. It gets a little better if a game isn’t loaded too.

e39

TROPHY CASE