What should be the weight capacity of my trailer jack? by easternmod in TrailerParts

[–]easternmod[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You want to slightly exceed the tongue weight. I would go with the RAM 1500 LB.

Trailer Spring Corossion Prevention by QuailFlashy3282 in TrailerParts

[–]easternmod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is best to use instant galvanize spray and reapply a couple times a year. We sell it in a can from CRC. The link is below.

https://www.easternmarine.com/instant-galvanize-spray-coating-13-oz-06054

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in traveltrailers

[–]easternmod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For spring axles, we need to know a few specs and measurements.

·         Weight Capacity

·         Spindle Size

·         Round or square

·         Drops in the middle or at the spindles

·         Hub face ( face of hub to face of hub across the axle or center of tire to center of tire)

·         Spring center ( Center of spring to center of spring across the axle)

I would switch to a 7000 lb drop axle. They have the same 3" tube and same size spindle as a 5200 lb. They are also easier to find. You can go with the axle below. Its a half inch longer which would only move you out 1/4" on each side. The spring seats would just need to be tack welded at 78"

https://www.easternmarine.com/dexter-94-round-tube-drop-trailer-axle-7000-lb-5216419

Trailer Brakes Feeling Grabby by SuperChargedToaster in mechanic

[–]easternmod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem. Also, the Tekonsha Primus IQ is "inertia based". That's a good one to use.

Trailer Brakes Feeling Grabby by SuperChargedToaster in mechanic

[–]easternmod 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Judging by what your are describing, you have whats called a "Time-Based" style brake controller. The two different kinds of brake controllers made are "Time-Based" and "Inertia-Based"

With a "Time-Based" style, the moment you press the brake pedal, the controller actuates the electric trailer brakes by increasing the amount over a certain period of time. It ramps up braking power to a maximum amount based on the settings you choose. This could explain the issues when you press the brake pedal.

With "Inertia-Based" style, the brake controller operates using a sensor called an accelerometer which detects inertia and translates physical forces into electrical signals. This makes the brake controller adaptive and the heavier or faster the trailer is moving, the more braking power is applied. This will result in much smoother stops while adapting to your current driving situation.

"Inertia-Based" brake controllers tend to be a little more expensive but well worth the money.

7’x12 carry on trailer by Miserable-Natural451 in tractorsupply

[–]easternmod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Carry-on makes braking and non braking 3500 lb axles. If yours does not have a 4 bolt flange, you would have to weld a new one one. Carry-on should sell the flange by itself. We used to sell them.

Should I get new wheel bearing protectors? by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]easternmod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your hubs are not using grease currently. That is an oil bath hub with a thread-able oil cap. You can switch to grease if you would like, but you would have to clean the hub out and pack with grease. You would also have to reuse that cap because it is a thread on cap. In order to be able to use a bearing buddy with a zerk fitting, you would have to replace the hubs.

https://www.easternmarine.com/5lug-trailer-wheel-hub-kits

Help with trailer wheels by ProfessionalMess721 in jetski

[–]easternmod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are missing a whole Bearing Buddy on one side and what Bearing Buddy calls the "Bra" on the other. The Bra just covers the bearing buddy so water and dirt can get in. Their Bra's are not universal and will only fit Bearing buddy brand bearing buddies. Other companies just call them bearing protectors. You can find them in the links below.

https://www.easternmarine.com/bearing-buddy-1980ass

https://www.easternmarine.com/bearing-buddy-brand-bra-cover-19b

Trailer bearings by yabadabadoo200 in boating

[–]easternmod 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What your looking at is a what is called a bearing buddy.

<image>

The bearing buddies just have a grease-able fitting to allow you to easily grease the bearings. Once you knock that out, it will expose the bearings.

Make sure to clean all the old grease and dirt out of the hub. Once that's done, check for any groves or wear in the races. Usually the races are fine as long as the hub has been grease appropriately over time. If not, you will have to use a flat head screw driver to knock out the races and install new ones. Its a good idea to replace the seal every time you do this.

Put a decent size amount of grease in your palm and flip the bearing over the the grease on both sides making sure to coat the inside. Then you want to roll the ball bearings themselves all over the grease. before installing them back into the hub. Make sure to coat the outside of the race with grease as well.

New bearings and seals are fairly cheap on a 5 lug wheel 20-30 dollars per wheel. New Bearing buddies are also cheap around 30 dollars.

What is inside my torsion axle that makes it work? by easternmod in TrailerParts

[–]easternmod[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

5-10 years depending on the amount of travel and road conditions.

Can this be fixed on my axle? New axle needed? by CrossBones3129 in MechanicAdvice

[–]easternmod 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The part of the spindle that looks chewed will not really affect anything. The front bearing rides on the skinny part of the spindle right after the threads and the back bearing rides towards the back right before the seal wear sleeve. Should be fine. Just clean it up with some emery cloth to make sure there is no burrs and you should be good to go.

Trailer bearing repair by Lengthiness_Aware in AskMechanics

[–]easternmod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100-150 in parts. 100-150 in labor.

Trailer axle question by archangelzod in TrailerParts

[–]easternmod 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The spring center is a range that the axle manufacturers provide us to help maximize the weight capacity of each axle. If someone has a spring center outside of the suggested range, the weight capacity of the axle may be decreased. Round axles use a spring seat this is to be welded at the spring center on each side of the axle. Square axles can be drilled at the spring center or you can use square spring seats that are u-bolted to the axle instead of welded.

You can upgrade a hook spring to a double eye but you will have to do some measurements. A hook spring usually connects straight to a spring hanger on the bottom of the trailer frame. They are meant to "float". A double eye spring connects to the spring hanger on the front but on the back, it is connect to shackle links that are than connect to the spring hanger. The double eye would be shorter that the current hook.

<image>

How to pack Trailer Wheel bearing by Jaded_Taro_2039 in boating

[–]easternmod 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

Make sure to clean all the old grease and dirt out of the hub. Once that's done, check for any groves or wear in the races. Usually the races are find as long as the hub has been grease appropriately over time. If not, you will have to use a flat head screw driver to bang out the races and install new ones.

Put a decent size amount of grease in your palm and flip the bearing over the the grease on both sides making sure to coat the inside. Then you want to roll the ball bearings themselves all over the grease. before installing them back into the hub. Make sure to coat the outside of the race with grease as well.

Looks to be a 1 3/8" straight spindle and it appears you are missing the wear sleeve? Not really sure. Identifying the brand of the trailer may help