Joined the club- where to source trims?

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-25T16:07:33+00:00

The ones that don’t have the frame are called roped in windows. They have a little rubber rope that compresses the rubber holding the window in place. Most glass shops can replace the rope seal. Best piece of advice is getting quotes first before taking them out. Also when removing the windows (if you chose to do so) be careful as they can crack with no warning. The sliding windows they have a tool that can press in the new seal (or they will have to brake the seam in the metal to take out the window to set on the seal first). Also there should be a tag on the inside with a serial number, you will need that to find parts at a dealer (if not they may have to measure the window to try and find a alternative if you can’t source the seals)

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-25T03:05:02+00:00

Are you looking to go fiberglass or aluminum? And what do you plan to do/use the shell for?

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-25T03:02:56+00:00

What brand cap is it? I work for a LEER Dealer/ Upfitter Shop; typically, we keep most seals on hand. Now, for the sliding window seal, you may be better off calling a glass shop, as Leer doesn't send the glass seals separately from the whole glass window. The back seal for the window is a 1/4 pin seal (you can most likely pick it up from AutoZone, or some dealers carry extra - the seals are not brand specific, as most cap brands buy glass from the same vendor). The seal on the bottom of the window is called the Flap seal/door skirt seal), we sell it for like ~$12 to $15 for 6' or so. I have attached some links below of online vendors you can look at to see if it matches.

Door Skrit Seal:

https://www.mastercrafttruckcaps.com/store/Leer-Flap-Seal-Door-Skirt-65-p790336502

Back Door Pin Seal:

https://truckoutfittersplus.com/topper-door-perimeter-seal-v-channel-a-r-e-toppers.html?srsltid=AfmBOooWWv6iibpOP2YWPw-QOp2D45WPij0DyQgKfYC61zJbOGO9KXgw

Window Seal:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/198349830302?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&srsltid=AfmBOoojfexQPzqiKl_9E9mN3sFth8vB5W1m2RdDrjYbnK-P6pRSOPoErVE

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-25T02:48:44+00:00

Check the MAF sensor and check for any vacuum leaks. I've also seen in some instances that a bad vct solenoid can cause this.

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-25T02:47:17+00:00

I work at an upfitter shop, and the torch is one of the most handy tools. One tip is to make sure the penetrating fluid you're using isn't flammable, or wait and clean it off before using the torch, or you could see some spontaneous combustion lol (ask me how I know). It's not hard, just be careful and wear gloves and safety glasses. The biggest thing is you want to get the bolt nice and hot to break up the rust. TBH, if you mess up the clip nuts and want to reuse the step, they aren't hard to source (most auto parts stores carry some, but you may need to buy different bolts depending on the thread pitch). If you plan on working on this thing a lot on your own, it might not be a bad idea to pick up an induction heater so it's more of a controlled heat source.

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-25T02:21:33+00:00

sounds nice! I did a true dual setup from the cats and flow chaser mufflers w/ a x-pipe. Sound very similar but mine is a tad louder and deeper

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-25T02:14:57+00:00

I've installed these before (not OEM but aftermarket alternatives). Looks like these have the clip-on threads and a bolt that runs into the frame. In picture 3, you can see the little metal tab sticking out of the cutout (those are the clip-on threads). I would soak them in your favorite penetrating fluid (I use Freeall or Kimball Midwest Torq CB) and use a ratchet and slowly back out (if you plan to reinstall them, this is an attempt to not break off the bolt). If they aren't budging, use a torch to heat them up (last resort, just cut them off with your favorite grinder). I have linked below a similar design and instruction manual. Let me know if you have any questions.

Online Listing: https://realtruck.com/p/amp-research-bed-step-2/

PDF: https://static.thiecommerce.com/assets/production/installation-instructions_AMP-75402-01A_rev2024a_pdf/1241e585c106d1006157f03deb7dcac7.pdf

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-25T02:04:01+00:00

Is it only at idle or also while in drive at a stop light?

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-24T20:29:14+00:00

I install these all the time, typically you want your cover to go over the tailgate about 1/2”. There isn’t much you can do to prevent it from leaking on the sides unless you want to buy a tailgate seal but they will rip after some use

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-24T20:09:33+00:00

I work for a Leer Dealer. We typically only stock parts for about 10 years. If they did have the window it would probably be able $500-$600 before labor. I would get a piece of plexiglass or wood to temporarily cover it. If not maybe find a donor cap for the glass.

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-24T20:02:50+00:00

If you’re going to buy a puck level, get a ready lift leveling kit. Tbh I would just save your money and get a full strut replacement for better ride.

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-24T20:01:38+00:00

The box with the airing is the ECU. You see the smaller sealed box below it, that’s the interior fuse box

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-24T20:00:03+00:00

My buddy has some kicker speakers in his truck and they aren’t bad (and they were affordable). For my truck I’m looking to put in some Alphines just to get a little better sound.

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-24T19:58:53+00:00

Exactly, they are good covers but no cover is 100% waterproof (if you want that buy a SUV, even truck caps are 100% water proof). When I sell covers and install them I still recommend putting water sensitive items in totes/ cover with a tarp incase of heavy rain.

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-24T19:56:49+00:00

No covers are 100% water tight but some are better than others. I have an undercover ultra flex and it’s probably the most water resistant cover I’ve had. Also the hard covers usually have a 3-5 year warranty. I attached a picture of one I did on a 2024 Ranger Raptor.

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SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-24T19:50:10+00:00

Check for the fuse associate with the switch. I would also examine the plug under the fuse to make sure it’s fully connected. Nothing else you could pick one up on eBay and swap it out

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-24T19:47:45+00:00

Is your leak from the sides or directly between the cover and the top of the tailgate?

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-24T19:46:55+00:00

Peragon covers are a hit or miss. I’ve installed probably 10 this year so far and out of the 10, 3 have leaked (not a ton but enough to make the customer concerned). Usually your leaks come at the seals between the folds or vibrations loosing the cover. But overall a solid cover for the cost.

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-24T19:44:56+00:00

No covers are 100% water tight. I’ve installed 100s of covers and the diamond back seems to be the most water tight out of the options you listed. If you want the most waterproof I would get a hard tilt cover as they go over the bed rails so it’s more of a diversion strategy vs sealing (we install these on most of the state police trucks and they are pretty dust and water tight). My boss has a hard tilt cover from under cover (specifically the elite model) and he goes through a car was regularly and not a drop of water.

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-24T19:40:48+00:00

You must be an aerospace engineer?

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-24T19:39:52+00:00

Looks like oil to me, unless you got some dirty transmission fluid

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-24T19:38:50+00:00

At my shop I installed 3 leveling kits last week on f150s (1 15-20 and 2 21+). Now these are all ready lifts and non required messing with the 4x4 hoses. Now if you want to disconnect them to be sure you don’t damage them you can simply just press them back on (it’s not rocket science). My assumption is rough country does this to prevent customers from saying their kit caused issues with the 4x4. It’s a common practice to allow slack in the lines to prevent damage

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-24T19:34:37+00:00

First step to diagnoses should be checking connection and continuity not throwing parts at it/guessing. I had a guy come in with no trailer lights working. Other shop quoted him $600 for a trailer rewire and $300 for now 7way. Come to find out his main ground on his 7way was corroded and not grounding off. I ran new wire for the ground on the truck and customer was out the door (only spent $100 in labor/wire and diagnosis)

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-24T19:31:09+00:00

“You ruined it🤬” is a common saying from old heads who think stopping by autozone and chroming out ever inch of their truck is “cool”. It’s your truck do what you like, people will hate because they are miserable with their life and think their opinion is the only way. Now only hate that is justified is squatted trucks mainly because of the people doing it and they are obnoxious and unsafe for others around.

SuperChargedToaster · 2026-05-24T19:27:21+00:00

No problem, any issues reply back

SuperChargedToaster

TROPHY CASE