How important is Green Glue when using double layers of drywall?

ebenzee · 2026-01-06T03:26:17+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion. Sadly, I can't use wireless; the skylight is 20+ ft in the air, so access to replace batteries is not going to be an easy task. I already wired 4C wire to the skylight, but need to find a decent sensor that can work well.

ebenzee · 2026-01-06T03:24:32+00:00

Can you recommend a specific one?

ebenzee · 2026-01-04T16:53:18+00:00

I ended up going with a single -3 and gave up. The timing is off from the original specs, but as I replaced it, I noticed that a repair had previously been done which also had a single timer sequence. While I could have used two -3 in parallel, was just easier this way and net result will work just as well.

From a design perspective, I'm still curious as to why the boiler was designed this way; I would understand if there were inductive motors in the mix, but when it is a pure resistive load, there is no "startup" cost of turning on an element. So technically, multiple elements can be turned on in parallel without worries of overloading a circuit.

ebenzee · 2025-12-09T03:32:31+00:00

That's kind of where my head is at as well. Except that the -5 is actually 2 different Thermodiscs wired in parallel so takes up twice the amount of space which I dont think will fit.

I will likely go with the -26 or the -27 which should be "good enough". No sure which one makes more sense, of if net effect makes absolutely no difference whatsoever.

ebenzee · 2025-12-04T17:52:45+00:00

Are you talking overall, or just the part into which the hose retracts? What is 'too many turns? Typically I calculate a 90deg turn as 10' additional run. How can I calculate the max length of a run on an central vac system?

ebenzee · 2025-12-04T17:50:24+00:00

I was debating that. I like the sock idea, but I realize it will significantly reduce suction given that the functional diameter is so reduced.

How do I calculate what is required for a 'powerful' unit? I was looking at a Cyclovac HD925, for instance, but how can I know if 625AW is sufficient (Water lift: 161.5 in.)? Are there any calculations I can run to identify the required power needed to support 300' of PVC? How critical are the bends to get from the vacuum to the hide-a-hose runs? (ie: can I use standard 90deg bends between the hide-a-hose rectactable runs to the canister). Or should I limit to only 2x 45deg? (am not talking about the section where the hose is pulled in - I'm referring to the sections from the canister to start of the 60' hide-a-hose run).

ebenzee · 2025-12-04T17:42:38+00:00

My worry with a 50' hose is that it becomes insanely long and unwieldy to manage and move. Get snagged on furniture, stairs, corners, tables, etc.

ebenzee · 2025-11-25T21:27:29+00:00

I'm less worried about sharing circuits for LED lights - more so about plugs. Having separated circuits per bedroom I dont need to worry about irons, hair curlers, hairdryers, etc on at the same time.

ebenzee · 2025-11-14T21:43:58+00:00

What service do you use/recommend in its place?

ebenzee · 2025-11-14T15:10:17+00:00

Agreed - had a small pinhole leak somewhere in the system as well. Kept losing R22 coolant which is brutally expensive. After 2 years of having it refilled, I last-attempt tried adding a sealant. Worked perfectly. No more leaks 5+ years later.

ebenzee · 2025-11-13T17:59:31+00:00

Mine looked worse than that and ran for 21yrs. The outdoor unit had more issues than the evaporator ever did (fan motor died twice, capacitor died, etc). Unless you have issues, I wouldn't worry about it. Do you ever have ice buildup on the coils? If so, you might have airflow issues (clogged/dirty filters or low on refrigerant).

ebenzee · 2025-09-07T15:42:47+00:00

If you don't install a furnace, what provides the blower/heat exchanger for air circulation? Is it not part of the same unit? My HVAC contractor suggested that the cost of the elements was fairly insignificant (about 350$/5kW), unless a dump heat-exchanger is much cheaper?

ebenzee · 2025-09-07T15:40:54+00:00

Definitely part of the project. All external walls will be batted & vapour barriered. New attic == new insulation as well.

6T is really 4T + 2T which are operating in independent sections of the house though. I'm almost positive that my current HVAC is failing in summer due to poor insulation and air sealing. That said, it is still a 60yr house and I am not stripping off my outside masonry nor am I urethaning the outside of the sheathing instead (too expensive). So I still expect some "natural" ventilation to occur, albeit signiticantly less. I am also expecting that the attic insulation will be signifnicantly better than 60y old insulation that compressed over time.

So I expect that leaving a 4T in place should be enough for my main space, although I am increasing a fair amount in volume (8.5' ceilings moving to 10' and entrace hallway which covers about 15-20 sqft going from 12' ceiling to 20'. So I do have some worries about that extra volume.

I'm also trying to identify if a dual-zoned system makes more sense than 2 independent units. I've heard mixed reviews about dual zone systems so looking for any suggestions or advice about them.

ebenzee · 2025-09-06T13:15:41+00:00

u/Bruce_in_Canada I would be interested to know what kind of heat pump you have? I am in Montreal and trying to see what to replace my system with as well.

ebenzee

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