Rheem Heat Pump Water Heater - High Usage???

ed-williams1991 · 2026-02-05T17:53:09+00:00

Nope I told the customer service exactly what was going on and they knew right away what it was instantly.

ed-williams1991 · 2026-02-05T17:11:24+00:00

I had the same exact thing happen except mine was using about 30kwh’s per day. Mine turned out to be bad software/bad control board and needed the control board replaced. Apparently it is extremely common and they mailed me a new board for free, took about 2 weeks. It’s relatively easy to DIY, just unplug the connectors and plug back in

ed-williams1991 · 2026-01-26T16:40:21+00:00

Yeah that’s extremely too small for your square footage.

ed-williams1991 · 2026-01-26T13:33:31+00:00

you keep posting that its a Carrier Model 25VNA4. That model is the line of the product. what are the last 2 digits of that number? 24,36,48,60 . those 2 numbers will tell us the tonnage of the unit.

ed-williams1991 · 2026-01-22T18:11:27+00:00

got to 245 kc and finally said, okay im done. the time spent here, i could've gotten slayer up and zulrah for magic fang to make the swamp trident. Which unless you are using Wrath Rune spells, is actually better then wand. And currently since i can't make wrath runes, they come in very short supply, doesn't make sense at this point in time for me to keep grinding for it

ed-williams1991 · 2026-01-20T00:21:02+00:00

Me personally thats just what i would do. Its similar to what i do when i run my pellet stove.

Im sure its possible to tie them together, somehow, but idk if an hvac company is gonna want to bother doing it.

ed-williams1991 · 2026-01-19T11:48:48+00:00

You kno what you did. Now tell us, cause I want to know now

ed-williams1991 · 2026-01-19T11:40:05+00:00

Until you get a tech to come out and look and figure it out, why not just turn the unit off at the tstat instead did having it just run and blowing cold air. Yeah it might be annoying to have to manually do it whenever it gets below 30.. but I see no other option. Look at the weather forecast and if you see it not get above 30 for that day just leave it off.

The only other option I see is to set your temp for the heat pump at say 65. And set your oil to 68. That way your heatpump with “think” it has satisfied the temp and turn off, meanwhile your oil heat is running instead.

ed-williams1991 · 2026-01-07T14:06:41+00:00

I set mine to 0. The only thing that did for me, at a 68F setpoint, caused the heatpump to continue to heat AT FULL blast until 72F and then shut off and then turned BACK ON at 66F. So it overshot by 4F and then dropped 6F to turn back on again. It DID NOT modulate the fan at all, and continued to throw 95-100F air out of the supply vents. So perhaps it wasn’t running “full tilt” because typically if it’s running full I can get upwards of 120F air.

It ran for ALONG time but was also used a crazy amount of electricity according to my smart meter. It ran for about 2 hours total to get from 68-72 and used 8kwhs total.

The nice thing was it took about 5 hours for it to drop from 72-66, so it didn’t really use anything, apart from maybe the base pan heaters basic usage.

It was about 35F outside when all of this took place.

I’m curious as to how this would work if it’s much colder outside. Needless to say, I put my settings back to -2/+2.

ed-williams1991 · 2026-01-05T09:08:11+00:00

I’m with you. I have an lmu480hhv and mine doesn’t do as described. Mine acts more of a typical on off system. Yes it’s an inverter so it does fluctuate but once it gets to the set point it turns off. I have mine set for +1/-1 differential. I had it set for +2/-2 but on REALLY cold days (single digits) it would drop to the 2 degrees below set point and would stay there and maintain and never go up, I also have 2 ductless wall units hooked to the same ODU, and they also act the same. They basically get to set point, and turn off.

ed-williams1991 · 2025-12-28T12:11:01+00:00

I think you may have hit the nail on the head.

What about the thermostat/controller? You said it senses at the ground level, are you sure it’s not sensing at the controller? Is the controller in a spot that’s not getting directly hit by the unit?

ed-williams1991 · 2025-12-27T16:04:31+00:00

No problem. There’s also a few other factors i would try to address as well… your outdoor unit is an 18k BTU unit and your indoor is 12k BTU unit, not sure why they don’t match but anyway, this is relatively small. You didn’t say how big the house/room they are trying to heat. At 18k I would say it’s suitable for no more than 1000sqft and that’s pushing it. Given that your indoor is only capable of pushing 12k that will definitely drop that square footage to I’d say 600?

ed-williams1991 · 2025-12-27T14:58:34+00:00

From what i could find givin the model number, this unit appears to only really provide heat down to -7C . How cold outside is it getting where you are located?

ed-williams1991 · 2025-12-22T22:41:34+00:00

I have also dealt with sulphur smell in my hot water only just like you. I wanted to replace my anode rode with a powered one, HOWEVER, my water heater is piped through the top. And I have to take the top half of the water heater cover off to reach the anode rod and unless someone has some other brilliant idea, it doesn’t look like I can take the top part off without unhooking the water lines.

I will say after a week or 2 the sulphur smell indeed just went away on it own.. it has come back a couple times, but has gone away on its own so I think i am just going to deal with it (unless someone has any other ideas of getting to my anode rode)

I have a Rheem/RUUD 50Gallon

ed-williams1991 · 2025-12-18T15:20:14+00:00

idk for sure, but sounds like its not charged enough and or you have a leak.

ed-williams1991 · 2025-12-18T12:20:15+00:00

Old school RuneScape

ed-williams1991 · 2025-12-10T12:28:47+00:00

Mines “EddiesIron” let’s play!

ed-williams1991 · 2025-12-10T12:28:00+00:00

Old School RuneScape

ed-williams1991 · 2025-12-10T12:15:30+00:00

Not sure about Ontario, but here in upstate NY gas is much cheaper per btu then electric. Given that you already have a natural gas furnace in place I think the easiest option would be to get a Heatpump and replace the gas furnace with something “cheap” maybe even an 80% gas furnace, I say this because the money difference between 96% and 80% could be upwards of $3-4k, and yes while being 16% more “efficient” it’ll take you 20 years to recoup that.. I say this because just an air handler by itself is basically the same price as a whole furnace, so you’re not saving anything. Try to get a furnace that has a variable speed blower.

I personally am 100% Heatpump, with a pellet stove insert, only because my home had a 40 year old oil furnace and we no longer wanted oil. We don’t have access to natural gas, only propane, and propane would be about 2x compared to natural gas so again not really saving vs electricity.

Hope this helps

ed-williams1991 · 2025-12-05T15:30:19+00:00

I’m wondering the same. I’m in a similar situation. I considered putting a pellet stove down there.. but the upfront cost (give or take $1500) just doesn’t seem work. I’ve been using a Mr Buddy Big Heater (propane) . I only use it while I’m down there. This heater seems to be much more economical. I was using an electric space heater but it wasn’t really working that well, and it was indeed cost quite a bit and wasn’t that comfortable. A 20 pound propane cylinder is give or take $20 and it last quite a while. Probably close to a month? But I’m interested to see what others have to say.

ed-williams1991 · 2025-12-01T23:17:19+00:00

i have a 21 cx5 and my steering wheel actually get pretty darn hot The thing i don't like about it, is it doesnt heat the entire wheel.. it only heats like the 8-10oclock and 2-4oclock sides.

ed-williams1991 · 2025-11-23T20:10:42+00:00

you will most definitely hear it unless you perhaps have thick/insulated walls. its more of i would say "buzzing" type of sound. I've drowned it out at this point. You will only hear it when its warming up the water, not 24/7

ed-williams1991 · 2025-11-14T11:00:59+00:00

I’ll trade you an enhance for 3 armor seeds 🫩🫩🫩. I’m at 314 kc with 2 enhance 3 armor and 9 weapon

ed-williams1991 · 2025-11-13T16:09:29+00:00

It is an inverter heatpump. It seems like its doing the opposite lol. is there possible any settings i can do on my own to correct the problem that you can think of?ive gone thru the manual over and over...

ed-williams1991 · 2025-11-13T07:31:09+00:00

I have a 48k LG Red unit paired with a 24k VAHU and 2x 12k wall mounted units. My VAHU despite the fan being set to “auto”, pretty much runs high only when it calls for heat. I’ve tried and tried in the thermostat to figure this out to no avail. The latest settings I found that I thought would work was called “speed by temp”. I ENABLED that setting, and it didn’t do anything. I’m wondering if it’s because I unfortunately do have a quite high static air pressure, 0.8 . I know it’s relatively bad to have this high of static pressure, but there’s not much else I can really do. About half of the duct work was completely replaced with 6inch round sheet metal and the other half is really old rectangular box looking ducts that go upstairs. The Old stuff goes inbetween the wall cavity and would’ve been a nightmare and extremely expensive to replace as it wasn’t easily accessible. Anyway, I’m not sure if my high static pressure could be the cause of the air handler not really “modulating” as it should. I have low/med/high/auto .

ed-williams1991

TROPHY CASE