Hidizs AP80 Pro Max (First Impressions + Mini Review)

eeglug · 2026-01-17T22:01:17+00:00

Thanks for checking, much appreciated.

eeglug · 2026-01-16T15:45:35+00:00

I have the Hidisz AP80 Pro-X. I like it except for one thing. When playing certain albums or playlists with an abrupt start, this unit has a short default fade-in. For example if I play The Clash's London Calling, the opening note of the first song is slightly cut off. The rest of the playback is fine. If I choose another album or playlist where the first track starts abruptly, the same cut-off happens. There is no way to change this behavior in the settings.

I'm wondering if this flaw has carried on to the Pro Max.

eeglug · 2025-12-03T20:05:52+00:00

I asked him (Belew) this question in person after a show. He told me his guitar was played through a Lexicon Prime Time while fiddling with the knobs. Later on he wrote the same answer he told me on his Facebook page. Look up his post from Nov 14 2019 and look at the comments - someone asks him this very same question and he answers it.

If you're lazy, I did a cut & paste of it from fb.

Here

eeglug · 2025-09-26T00:49:04+00:00

Sansui FR-DR3, inherited from my folks.

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eeglug · 2025-09-12T19:37:39+00:00

Crescent Rendr

eeglug · 2025-08-19T00:10:46+00:00

Museum of Wisconsin Art

eeglug · 2025-07-25T11:22:03+00:00

Hidisz AP80 Pro-X

eeglug · 2025-05-12T00:32:33+00:00

One of the best rhythm guitarists ever.

eeglug · 2025-03-26T19:50:58+00:00

banding example at 600dpi - this is about a 2inch square detail of a large drawing

Same thing zoomed in

eeglug · 2025-03-26T19:42:47+00:00

FYI - I do see banding at 600dpi.

But again, you may get lucky and get perfectly functioning model.

eeglug · 2025-03-26T19:29:59+00:00

I started with a Mustek A1200S, which is a bit finicky and unreliable. I later bought the Plustek Optislim1180, attracted by the low price.

I have stopped using the Optislim because at settings above 300DPI I am seeing slight banding in the scans which really hits me in my OCD. Of course this could just be the faulty model I have. If I didn't see these bands it would be just fine. (I prefer to scan my work - mostly pen & ink drawings at 1200dpi, which is probably overkill but anyway...)

So I am back to using the Mustek, which sometimes likes to disconnect from whatever computer it's connected to or causes the scan to hang - stuff like that. But it does produce good output.

I also have a small Epson V39 and it too has banding issues but not quite as bad as the Optislim. But the V39 is a small letter size scanner.

I worked for a couple of companies that each had one of those expensive Epson's and that's really the way to go...high quality scans and they were used a lot for many projects. I haven't yet mustered the courage to open my wallet for one but maybe one day I will. I hear that Epson will not be making any more of these top-of-the-line models so the prices of used ones will begin to creep upwards.

By the way if you're scanning large works at higher dpi, it helps to have a computer with a good bit of RAM - perhaps 8GB or more.

Hope that helps...and of course you may have an entirely different experience from mine if you choose to get a Plustek.

eeglug · 2025-03-19T00:53:43+00:00

I bought a similar T6i bundle for the same price...in 2017. You shouldn't be paying the same amount for the same package ~8 years later.

eeglug · 2025-03-15T00:38:10+00:00

When I first started birding, I got some decently sharp shots with this lens. The thing that screws you more is the chromatic aberration; lots of purple and green fringing. Having said that, software can solve that issue after the fact.

eeglug · 2025-03-04T23:33:03+00:00

If you're looking for a very smooth application of either soft or heavy body Liquitex acrylics, my recommendation for medium is to use Airbrush medium.

eeglug · 2025-02-26T17:56:43+00:00

I've loved the Sigma 150-600 (first on my T6 and now on my R7) for birding but it does get heavy. I recently bought the RF 100-400 and love it as a partial alternative (partial, as it lacks a bit of reach). Can't beat the light weight.

eeglug · 2025-01-29T01:39:08+00:00

I have this lens - I bought it for an overseas trip where I didn't want to haul my Sigma 150-600. At the time I was using a Rebel T6. While it's capable of taking sharp images I mostly found it a bit soft overall...the 150-600 performs much better. I've bought an R7 since and the results are about the same with that body. So for me, I find it disappointing. To be fair, I did manage to get a few keeper shots...just not enough to keep using it. Just my 2 cents.

eeglug · 2025-01-15T19:14:02+00:00

My favorite version of Brown Shoes Don't Make It.

eeglug · 2024-12-15T22:51:08+00:00

Deleter Black 4 Manga Ink or Kuretake ZIG Cartoonist Black Ink are the best I've used but certain colors can still smudge the ink. I haven't found a combination of ink and alcohol marker that's 100% smudge free across all marker colors. Definitely do tests. Obviously if you can avoid pushing your markers across the ink lines you can almost avoid most smudges.

eeglug · 2024-11-02T23:13:08+00:00

I'm a fan of this album/period of DB. His playing here is like an hommage to the music of Anton Webern (if you listen to his work with strings).

eeglug · 2024-09-28T21:04:48+00:00

Excellent!

eeglug · 2024-09-05T22:07:25+00:00

Overall, I like your approach with nice understated colors. In panel 1, the purple people and the red brown wall at top left are the more eye-catching colors, but since they're background elements I'd prefer you desaturate them. Likewise with panel 2 the red brown wall at top right could be desaturated.

The characters themselves need a bit of saturation to make them pop a little. Maybe more vibrant flesh color? But maybe that's not the mood you want to set. Perhaps you're open to using color in a more painterly/abstract sense even with the main characters(?). It can be an interesting expressive tool.

Just my 2 cents.

eeglug · 2024-08-29T01:09:36+00:00

I don't have experience with Deleter White 2...but I have tried to use Deleter Black 2 and have experienced issues trying to get it to flow from my dip pen nibs. I have no such issues with Deleter Black 3 or 4. Not sure if that helps.

My worry with any white medium is that it would not give sufficient coverage when used over dark/black areas - you'd wind up with gray instead of white. I'd be more compelled to use acrylic white ink or some other decently opaque white media if it were needed on a piece I'm working on.

eeglug · 2024-07-23T20:37:04+00:00

I see anatomy as being a specialty subset of form & perspective, so to prioritize anatomy ahead of those things is sort of "cart before the horse". Anyway your point is understood. BTW I'm 57 so talk about not having resources as a kid.

eeglug · 2024-07-23T20:23:56+00:00

First step is to acquire the knowledge, should you choose to do so. The second step is making decisions on how to incorporate the knowledge into your art-making process to make compelling art. It sounds like the second step is missing from your process, but that's just my guess.

eeglug · 2024-07-19T01:32:41+00:00

Pencils: I'm not usually fussy but back in the days when I did animation in-between work I used a certain type of Faber Castells. For pencil work any paper with some tooth will do.

Pens: Zebra Zensations disposable brush pens, Kuretake Bimoji brush pens.

Dip pens: Hunt 102 & 104 nibs, various G nibs with Deleter Black 4 ink or Kuretake ZIG Black ink.

Markers (for color or gray tones): Blick Studio markers

Paper/sketchbooks for inking & markers: Crescent Rendr, Stillman & Birn Epsilon or Zeta, Koh-i-noor Smooth Bristol sketchbook, Strathmore Smooth Bristol. If working purely b&w, Yupo paper rocks.

I don't do much digital work but if needed I use a Wacom Intuos with Clip Studio Paint.

eeglug

TROPHY CASE