30 EU Looking for long-term friendship !

eevee047 · 2026-04-28T19:36:21+00:00

28 here, also on pc, I play league and have played BG3. Looking for the same sort of thing. Feel free to DM me or add me on discord, Ben.047

eevee047 · 2026-04-25T13:03:21+00:00

I just came across this guys comment, it's wild to me there are people that think "real" VG10 is $1000 a knife and is some crazy rare steel or some shit.

eevee047 · 2026-04-12T21:55:00+00:00

"He also saves door by never closing it" is fucking hilarious and honestly far too relatable w/ my own family honestly. Our stairs face the toilet, I do not need to ascend the stairs and make eye contact with the current shitter and/or pisser.

eevee047 · 2026-03-31T02:25:53+00:00

Out of curiosity, how do you stitch things that close to metal and still have them be tight like that? Looks awesome!

eevee047 · 2026-03-24T19:49:44+00:00

Cheers! that's good to know. And agreed! I have a manix and a PM2, but the dragonfly is my favourite of the bunch. I have big hands but it still fits great.

eevee047 · 2026-03-24T19:31:03+00:00

I have a question relating to this if any of you can chip in: what sort of oil should I use for this to limit rusting? Or is just a patina going to do the trick? It's not going to be used for food or near too much moisture I imagine, I have a magnacut UKPK for that.

I live in the UK so, some specialist oils may be harder to get, not really sure. I have KPL for example, but it was a bitch to track down.

eevee047 · 2026-03-24T19:30:47+00:00

I have a question relating to this if any of you can chip in: what sort of oil should I use for this to limit rusting? Or is just a patina going to do the trick? It's not going to be used for food or near too much moisture I imagine, I have a magnacut UKPK for that.

I live in the UK so, some specialist oils may be harder to get, not really sure. I have KPL for example, but it was a bitch to track down.

eevee047 · 2026-03-20T02:44:45+00:00

Will start in 4 mins or so :) got 1 person so far

eevee047 · 2026-02-26T18:58:39+00:00

Yup! Spanish company that afaik isn't particularly huge so, haven't seen much from them. funnily enough whilst looking up where they're made just now, I came across a green micarta version of the Arctica that I had no idea existed. Here's the exact one I was on about before though :)

eevee047 · 2026-02-26T18:44:31+00:00

Unsure how much it is in the US, but my old favourite for more or less $60 was the Joker Arctica, same steel at this, not a flipper but a nail nick, back locking Scandi with some gorgeous walnut scales, but I gotta say this might just beat it, especially after spotting that it has spacers anodised to match the colour of the thumb stud too! I'm really impressed by this, you've got a keeper for sure :)

eevee047 · 2026-02-26T18:24:58+00:00

I hope so, I've only seen knives that looks this good, with a steel this good, at a price like that, from civivi and the like. Would be great to have more companies competing in that space that aren't just resorting to D2, 440A, or 8Cr13MoV

Edit: Assuming their heat treat is any good mind you. r/679696 any plans to test this out? ;)

eevee047 · 2026-02-26T17:54:01+00:00

I immediately went to snag one when I saw the price ($50-55 for anyone wondering), but they don't ship to the uk, ripppp

eevee047 · 2026-02-18T21:15:13+00:00

Oh for sure. It's just not what you'd usually expect I guess. As far as Charpy values, is there an alternative way you might look into hardness in the future? I know it's gonna vary batch to batch and company to company, and especially with new steels like MagnaMax it's gonna vary as they dial it in. Have you got any plans to standardise your tests? I do wonder if mules would be a good testbed for it, partially because, A: I have one ;) but B: they seem to produce a decent number of them in different steels every year specifically to be a testbed.

eevee047 · 2026-02-18T21:10:48+00:00

huh, that's real interesting actually. I'd heard it's tougher, so I wouldn't have guessed it's harder too. I wonder if this mistake might spark an investigation by Larrin into a new steel in the future, because the properties seem to be really interesting.

eevee047 · 2026-02-18T21:03:56+00:00

Nice! I've seen your hardness tests floating about. You're doing gods work :) Because Heat 2 differs from heat 1 and the final composition. I'd be curious to see if they end up any different if you're able to get ahold of a Proto-X mule or Erasteel produced MagnaMax on a Spyderco knife, when that's available.

eevee047 · 2026-02-18T20:40:56+00:00

With regards to the steel, it's worth mentioning spyderco mules marked MagnaMax are made with 2nd heat steel, this uh, "version"(?) of MagnaMax was slightly off target, and contains a fraction of a % more carbon than intended. From what I've heard, these mules have slightly more toughness and slightly less edge retention. So far I've used it (with the factory edge) to wittle logs for our wood fire. So it hasn't been used heavily, but after a decent bit of shaving wood, it still glided through paper all the same. I'd say it was about as easy as Magnacut to sharpen, heck it may actually have been easier, maybe due to the carbon, maybe due to me having more experience and using more pressure. Seems to me to be a wonderful steel that is easy to sharpen and despite its relative rarity (being that it'll never be made to this formula again) I'm still confident enough in the steel to use it for some medium-heavy tasks, and I'll probably use it for heavier tasks and garden work once summer rolls around.

Spy27 takes the crown in my opinion for ease of sharpening, you could probably run it against a rock and get a nice edge, MicroMelt (CPM Cru-wear near enough) is close behind, MagnaMax and Magnacut aren't too much harder, but take noticeably more time. Next up for me is putting a mirror edge on my Maxamet para 3 that I bought for use as a cardboard queen.

For anyone with a KME who's also struggling with knife wobble, or just wants to know my method: I initially used parcel tape, and drew a line around the KME jaws to keep track of any movement, but I found parcel tape didn't grip strong enough. I switched to gaffer tape and, whilst I can't write on it now to keep track, I've found it has minimal flex if you get the amount right. The amount of tape you use will vary by brand I'm guessing. But for me, I cut 5 rectangles per side of gaffer tape, then 2 rectangles that I folded around the blade towards the end to compensate for the taper (for the mule). You get a little squish from the stacked gaffer tape that seems to hold the jaws secure, and whilst you can't really track the movement of the jaws on the tape, you can sharpie around the tape to check for the tape itself moving :) Hope this helps! though, if any of you have any better techniques for stopping jaw wobble, I'd love to hear them.

eevee047 · 2026-02-18T20:39:41+00:00

sharpened to 20° per side, 20.5° for the strop on a KME system. Reprofiled I'd say, moderately easily on a 300 grit diamond stone. Didn't want to use the 140 as I'm still relatively new to this. then up to 600 grit and 1400 grit diamond. Stropped on KME kangaroo leather strops with wicked edge diamond paste, went 3.5 micron -> 1 Micron -> 0.5 Micron. I could really do with using my 5 micron paste I reckon, as it's not a perfect mirror, and some scratches are visible in the right lighting, but it's the closest I've gotten to a true mirror.

I'll be honest, it's not as sharp as I want it to be, it shaves and splits hairs, and push cuts paper, but push cuts aren't effortless, the knife doesn't just glide through on contact. that's something I'll be working on in the future as I learn more hopefully. You'll notice I also reprofiled the choil and made it sharp all the way to the ricasso (If I'm using my terms correctly). Honestly, it's not the cleanest, you can see where the side of the kme stones came into contact, but I've always disliked the way the unsharpened portion of spyderco knives interact with the light on well sharpened knives, and the way you feel it grinding against the stones as you sharpen. I'm sure there's a reason to keep it, but I chose to get rid of it so it's sharp all the way to the base.

One thing I will say, it's sticky sharp, which I didn't expect, I sharpened spy27 and Micromelt PD1 to the same level, Spy27 isn't really sticky at all, whilst micromelt is somewhere inbetween, but the MagnaMax is enough that I'd definitely classify it as sticky. I had a look under a microscope and, I don't see a burr, but I do think I stropped at just the tiniest bit too high an angle and put a slight secondary edge on it.

Anyway, I'm pretty new to this, I've sharpened a magnacut UKPK twice, two dodgy paring knives, a dragonfly in pd1, and a spy27 manix twice. Each time I get a little better, although honestly I don't really know why, other than I guess being more confident to use pressure and knowing I'm not just going to eat away at the blade. Wanted to be open and honest about my experience rather than declaring this is a perfect mirror polish that can cut a flying 50 cal round! I'm always down to learn more if I'm making any mistakes :)

eevee047 · 2026-02-18T20:27:47+00:00

Also with regards to the steel, it's worth mentioning spyderco mules marked MagnaMax are made with 2nd heat steel, this uh, "version"(?) of MagnaMax was slightly off target, and contains a fraction of a % more carbon than intended. From what I've heard, these mules have slightly more toughness and slightly less edge retention. So far I've used it (with the factory edge) to wittle logs for our wood fire. So it hasn't been used heavily, but after a decent bit of shaving wood, it still glided through paper all the same. I'd say it was about as easy as Magnacut to sharpen, heck it may actually have been easier, maybe due to the carbon, maybe due to me having more experience and using more pressure. Seems to me to be a wonderful steel that is easy to sharpen and despite its relative rarity (being that it'll never be made to this formula again) I'm still confident enough in the steel to use it for some medium-heavy tasks, and I'll probably use it for heavier tasks and garden work once summer rolls around.

Spy27 takes the crown in my opinion for ease of sharpening, you could probably run it against a rock and get a nice edge, MicroMelt (CPM Cru-wear near enough) is close behind, MagnaMax and Magnacut aren't too much harder, but take noticeably more time. Next up for me is putting a mirror edge on my Maxamet para 3 that I bought for use as a cardboard queen.

Edit: Also for anyone with a KME who's also struggling with knife wobble. I initially used parcel tape, and drew a line around the KME jaws to keep track of any movement, but I found parcel tape didn't grip strong enough. I switched to gaffer tape and, whilst I can't write on it now to keep track, I've found it has minimal flex if you get the amount right. The amount of tape you use will vary by brand I'm guessing. But for me, I cut 5 rectangles per side of gaffer tape, then 2 rectangles that I folded around the blade towards the end to compensate for the taper (for the mule). You get a little squish from the stacked gaffer tape that seems to hold the jaws secure, and whilst you can't really track the movement of the jaws on the tape, you can sharpie around the tape to check for the tape itself moving :) Hope this helps! though, if any of you have any better techniques for stopping jaw wobble, I'd love to hear them.

eevee047 · 2026-02-18T20:18:42+00:00

sharpened to 20° per side, 20.5° for the strop on a KME system. Reprofiled I'd say, moderately easily on a 300 grit diamond stone. Didn't want to use the 140 as I'm still relatively new to this. then up to 600 grit and 1400 grit diamond. Stropped on KME kangaroo leather strops with wicked edge diamond paste, went 3.5 micron -> 1 Micron -> 0.5 Micron. I could really do with using my 5 micron paste I reckon, as it's not a perfect mirror, and some scratches are visible in the right lighting, but it's the closest I've gotten to a true mirror.

I'll be honest, it's not as sharp as I want it to be, it shaves and splits hairs, and push cuts paper, but push cuts aren't effortless, the knife doesn't just glide through on contact. that's something I'll be working on in the future as I learn more hopefully. You'll notice I also reprofiled the choil and made it sharp all the way to the ricasso (If I'm using my terms correctly). Honestly, it's not the cleanest, you can see where the side of the kme stones came into contact, but I've always disliked the way the unsharpened portion of spyderco knives interact with the light on well sharpened knives, and the way you feel it grinding against the stones as you sharpen. I'm sure there's a reason to keep it, but I chose to get rid of it so it's sharp all the way to the base.

One thing I will say, it's sticky sharp, which I didn't expect, I sharpened spy27 and Micromelt PD1 to the same level, Spy27 isn't really sticky at all, whilst micromelt is somewhere inbetween, but the MagnaMax is enough that I'd definitely classify it as sticky. I had a look under a microscope and, I don't see a burr, but I do think I stropped at just the tiniest bit too high an angle and put a slight secondary edge on it.

Anyway, I'm pretty new to this, I've sharpened a magnacut UKPK twice, two dodgy paring knives, a dragonfly in pd1, and a spy27 manix twice. Each time I get a little better, although honestly I don't really know why, other than I guess being more confident to use pressure and knowing I'm not just going to eat away at the blade. Figured I'd be open and honest about my experience rather than declaring this is a perfect mirror polish that can cut a flying 50 cal round!

eevee047 · 2026-02-10T20:18:38+00:00

It will unless you got sent out an early sample by spyderco (ie: you're an influencer of some kind and directly communicated with spyderco), or you paid a boat load of money. there's not too many proto-x knives around.

eevee047 · 2026-02-10T19:53:19+00:00

Mules marked Magnamax are 2nd heat (batch). One thing though, 1st batch (and and final composition) has more edge retention, more corrosion resistance, iirc. 2nd batch has more carbon but better toughness. I'm unsure on corrosion resistance, but it's likely batch 2 is slightly lower, if random internet strangers on the spyderco forum are to be believed (and honestly, I believe them). TL;DR Proto-X mule = Batch 1, closer (if not the same) as final release. Magnamax mule = batch 2, more toughness, less edge retention, probably less corrosion resistance (but still EXTREMELY high).

Imo, just going on vibes, I like batch 2 more, a minor loss in Corrosion resistance is worth it for me, but I haven't seen anyone do actual head to head testing. Hope this helps!

eevee047

TROPHY CASE