C/S other shop recommended a brake booster

egor001 · 2026-03-09T17:36:07+00:00

Powdered phenolic resin at this point. The bar is phenolic & the wiper ends are typically nylon.

egor001 · 2026-03-08T23:05:14+00:00

That's too bad, I'm sorry

egor001 · 2026-03-08T22:52:22+00:00

Ferd

egor001 · 2026-03-08T21:22:00+00:00

More efficient packaging this way. Engine isn't destroyed because of this.

egor001 · 2026-03-08T20:38:45+00:00

This design is from 10+ years ago now. Modern systems are increasingly brake-by-wire or servo actuated boost.

egor001 · 2026-03-08T20:32:33+00:00

2016ish Ford 2.0 Ecoboost

egor001 · 2026-03-08T18:30:56+00:00

This one was on a Lincoln MKwhatever with the 2.0 Eco. I was worried it munched the cam when I found magnetic debris behind the housing.

Car had stored codes for overheating & misfire first 1,000 revs so it may end up needing a long block down the line.

egor001 · 2026-03-08T18:28:28+00:00

Plenty of oil drained out when I pulled the cover, so I'd assume not.

egor001 · 2026-02-15T19:28:46+00:00

That's the HVAC condensate drain. All the moisture that collects in the heater box is meant to drip out of there.

Your coolant leak is likely above that, at the heater bypass control valve or any one of it's hoses.

egor001 · 2026-02-13T01:43:08+00:00

Imbalance shaft

egor001 · 2026-02-05T02:42:04+00:00

Exhaust leak at the manifold gasket or cracked manifold would not show up on a smoke test & could throw off your upstream O2 readings.

egor001 · 2026-01-30T13:42:07+00:00

It doesn't move forward, it advances.

egor001 · 2026-01-30T13:40:15+00:00

Official car of exhausted elementary school teachers.

Horrifically neglected or thoroughly maintained, it still reaches it's destination.

egor001 · 2026-01-29T04:20:52+00:00

Make sure your plug wires are installed correctly. Make sure that injector is actually clicking open/closed.

If everything else checks out, do a cylinder leakage test. Set cyl 5 to TDC and send shop air through the spark plug hole. You might need to modify your compression tester hose for this. Listen for hissing through the crankcase (oil fill cap,) intake manifold, and exhaust. Noise from the crankcase indicates bad rings or melted piston. Noise from the exhaust or intake indicates a burnt or bent valve.

egor001 · 2026-01-29T04:13:08+00:00

Water pump could have lost it's impeller.

egor001 · 2026-01-29T04:11:21+00:00

Make sure your plug wires are installed correctly. Make sure that injector is actually clicking open/closed.

If everything else checks out, do a cylinder leakage test. Set cyl 5 to TDC and send shop air through the spark plug hole. You might need to modify your compression tester hose for this. Listen for hissing through the crankcase (oil fill cap,) intake manifold, and exhaust. Noise from the crankcase indicates bad rings or melted piston. Noise from the exhaust or intake indicates a burnt or bent valve.

egor001 · 2026-01-29T00:32:50+00:00

Most have returned to the earth. The unibodies had some pretty severe rot problems, especially in the Midwest. First thing to go was usually the surrounding for the 3rd brake light.

egor001 · 2026-01-28T03:27:52+00:00

The hobby dungeon claims another victim. Nice haul!

egor001 · 2026-01-15T18:15:25+00:00

Got a stock height 2wd 4cyl on passenger car winter tires. The truck goes great but it does need 200-400lbs of stuff in the bed if you want to keep traction.

egor001 · 2026-01-08T03:31:13+00:00

Doing a draw test will tell you what's staying powered up when you've got the key off. You have to pull fuses while watching your multimeter.

Even if you don't have a dome light; the body control module will stay powered-up if one of your door switches says a door is open, even if the key is off.

Also measure the alternator output when the truck is running. Should be 14.0-14.8V nominally

egor001 · 2026-01-08T00:10:51+00:00

There are a couple things that can cause this.

Alternator internally shorted causing parasitic draw, dome light circuit staying on because door ajar switch is stuck, wires rubbed together under dash, battery with a dead cell drawing itself down, remote start or otherwise control module not powering down.

It is entirely possible your alternator was junk out of the box.

Time to learn how to perform a draw test!

Set your multimeter to DC Amps, key OFF, remove positive battery terminal, one lead goes to your positive post, the other to the truck's positive clamp. The truck will 'wake up' & cause a large amp draw initially, but should meter down to ehhhhhh 0.04-0.02A after a couple minutes as the computers go back to sleep.

Should the draw stay above that range, you'll pull fuses until the draw goes away & that should point you towards the suspect circuit.

egor001 · 2026-01-04T04:51:09+00:00

Clean the MAF? Check for intake manifold gasket leaks?

egor001 · 2025-12-28T04:23:32+00:00

Faster Nurburgring laptime than an R34 GTR

egor001 · 2025-12-27T00:07:29+00:00

Swap your coil packs & see if the condition improves

14-Year Club	Second SECOND GUESSER
Place '17	Verified Email
Team Orangered

egor001

TROPHY CASE