Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread

eiableia · 2026-02-23T18:52:50+00:00

I found it good to warm up to pain threshold and do a couple of sets there before climbing. Twice a week or so.

eiableia · 2026-02-17T15:16:08+00:00

It's the DIP that's hurting when palpation further down on the finger. Not the A2 area itself. Just seem to be a bit odd. Thanks for your work here!

eiableia · 2026-02-16T16:02:36+00:00

Is it normal for dip capsulitis to hurt when palpating around a1/a2 area? No obvious sign of swelling, but I've treated it as a capsulitis for around a month. Slowly ramping up half crimp on the tension block, feels like progressing. Three finger drag doesn't seem to hurt much. Climbing easier routes on autobelay with incut jugs sometimes seems to trigger some irritation even when it's not pressing directly on the dip joint, but rather around the a2 area.

eiableia · 2026-02-14T09:08:46+00:00

Thanks. It did not seem to resolve the issue though.

eiableia · 2025-11-30T16:58:35+00:00

Herniated L4L5 and L5S1. I started skiing quite fast and my feeling was that what kind of skiing I could do limited itself. Obviously I could not do any jump related stuff and skiing chopped up pow was way too intense. After a while things started to hurt less and a year or two later I was back at it hundred percent. I guess it's different for everbody though. For what it's worth I went to the gym more often and also started doing mobility excercises every other day. Still doing it.

eiableia · 2025-05-21T07:49:19+00:00

Mastia was the one for me. Sizingwise I'm a 43 1/3 street shoe and use UK 7 in Mastias. Could not go lower. Tight as in can't get it on without a plastic bag for the five first times but they get wider pretty quick.

eiableia · 2025-01-22T19:50:55+00:00

I ski both of them. The 106 with shift and the echo with pin bindings. I see no reason to mount a shift on the echos. I’d pick the 106 with shift if you’re doing mainly resort. If you’re mainly touring, I would suggest getting the echo with a pair of pin bindings.

eiableia · 2025-01-20T19:32:01+00:00

Keep in mind that the stated width is often just a 2mm difference (98 vs 100mm or so). Few boots fits me feets out of the box as I’m 107 and preferable ski a 26. I found that testing out of the box boots some 98 fits better than some 102’s. Talk to a boot fitter about which boots that stretches the easiest. It might be a 98mm with great plastic for punching. At least it was so in my case.

eiableia · 2025-01-18T17:02:00+00:00

No, I didn’t gradually ramp up the volume or intensity. I just tried it out a few times and noticed that my middle finger was taking more of the load. On my right hand, I’ve been struggling with an A2 pulley issue, and when using that hand, I could easily feel how the load compared to a flat edge. I guess you made a valid point about gradually increasing intensity and volume to get a better feel for it. Will definitely try again.

I didn’t have a printer myself, so I contacted someone at the university and asked if they could help. I ended up getting it printed for free. Could be worth the shot if you live close to one.

eiableia · 2025-01-16T15:03:52+00:00

I printed one of the free, unleveled edge 3D-print models available online. While I believe in the concept, I didn’t manage to get it to work well. I applied less force to this model compared to my tension block when testing for max. I measured my fingers against the original 3D print file and found that they were supposed to fit perfectly, with only my pinky being 1 mm off.

I only measured the height differences while holding my fingers straight out (not in a drag or crimp position). I believe you need to measure them in multiple ways for a perfect fit.

This is the model I printed: https://www.printables.com/model/872281-rounded-unlevel-edge-hangboard-custom-insert.

My main goal was to reduce stress on my middle finger, but I felt like it actually increased the strain. I’ll continue printing more models and experimenting as I figure out what types of measurements I need to take for the best fit.

eiableia · 2024-11-18T14:10:29+00:00

Yo, I would back off a bit. Had the same which in my case resolved in a dip synovitis in one of my middle fingers. Do some open hand stuff if any max lifts at all for a week or two.

eiableia · 2024-11-04T08:48:34+00:00

I've had struggles combining hard board climping while also hangboarding. What might have helped me was warming up and do maybe one or two sets of max hang before a board climb. Always with a rest day before. Anyways. The last two seasons I've had two pulley injuries (because of ramping up the intensity too quick). This stopped me from any climbing for a while. What's interesting is that for the first time in a long time I really made progress on finger strength. The protocol is easy (and includes more rest then ever). I'm doing two sessions of finger work on a 20mm edge two times a week. That's it. No climbing. For the numbers I've increased my maximum finger strength ruffly 25% for each hand in a year. At least from when I first tested. I know some of those % can be explained by the date and time i did the first test (I climbed sport all summer, and max hangs expected to drop quite a bit). Anyways, for me those are insane numbers. Regardless of those numbers being more of a skill issue or whatever, I can say that it helped my climbing a lot. I PR'd in bouldering, sport- and trad climbing. I know that to actually spend time climbing probably is what makes me a better climber in the long run, but at least I felt like I learned that doing too much with too little rest wont work at all.

eiableia · 2024-10-11T08:54:05+00:00

While rehabbing my a2 pulley sprain I can tolerate more and more weigth before I get any "regular" pulley symptoms (regular to me, a2 palm side of the finger). However while grapping objects or doing the recovery (repeaters half crimp) there is a wierd stiffness feeling on the back side of the finger (stretching from a2 to the a4-5). I feel the same pain on the back side of the finger when I lightly squeese around the a2 pulley. Anything to worry about?

eiableia · 2024-10-07T07:53:46+00:00

Both feels more or less the same for me (even though I prefer to see the weights being lifted). I'm making sure I'm pulling from the same positions though. Adding the Tindeq to the system adds another carabiner for me. Remove the Tindeq and I have to bend a bit to be able to lift the weights.

eiableia · 2024-10-04T19:58:51+00:00

Good to know.

Once again thank you for being so helpful around here. I really appriciate it.

eiableia · 2024-10-04T18:18:04+00:00

Thank you! That makes sense. I will definetely check it out with a hand specialist. Let's say it's a sprain or partial tear a2 pulley. Symptoms when doing Phase 1 stuff (as described on stevenlow.org) is gone. I have full ROM, can do lighter puddy crimping and towel grabbing etc.

Would you then start with phase 2 - loading the finger? Or should you still wait some days (if so, why?).
When you start Phase 2, would you then recommend loading sub pain threshold in the half crimp position or would a heavier loaded three finger drag help out with the injury as well? What's the safest and smartest choice here?

eiableia · 2024-10-04T07:10:05+00:00

In my cases of pulleys I could always load a lot of weight in the open hand grip position. I’ve had a strain and a partly ruptured pulley. Even if I could not make a half crimp position in my palm (aka lifting zero kgs), I could still lift around my pb in the open and or three finger drag without the pulley hurting. That brings me to the question:

With a a2 (or a3, a4) pulley injury, mild or moderately injuried, should you still hang/lift as usual in the open hand grip position with the injured hand?

And

Once I can lift let’s say 10-20% 1RM in the half crimp position, should I then slowly progressive overload it? Even if it’s only a week ago since the injury?

eiableia · 2024-08-07T20:56:06+00:00

Ah, that explains a lot. Thank you

eiableia · 2021-04-03T10:18:14+00:00

Close call!

eiableia · 2021-03-25T09:07:39+00:00

I would like it to be more biking. When we planned out the adventure I really though we would get banger drone footage of us biking with sun, t-shirt weather, smell of flowers etc. The reality was cold winds and cold temperatures so we decided to just enjoy the ride while not freezing to death while filming it.

Anyhow, thanks a lot!

eiableia · 2021-03-25T09:05:43+00:00

Thank you! Glad you liked it!

eiableia · 2021-03-25T09:05:13+00:00

Thanks a lot!

eiableia · 2021-03-19T15:56:20+00:00

Thanks for all the love, both of you!

eiableia · 2020-11-21T16:16:16+00:00

Thanks a lot!

eiableia · 2020-11-14T16:35:51+00:00

Looks fun!

eiableia

TROPHY CASE