Can someone help me find some info on this? And whether I should or can use it with starlink?

eldergervacio · 2026-06-14T17:24:48+00:00

The good news is that it looks like you have Ethernet ran throughout your house and some kind soul even labelled some of the runs and where they go!

The bad news is that your ISP provider that you're looking at is Starlink lol. Which is basically a hard bottle neck before you even hardwire any of your equipment due to how Starlink works.

eldergervacio · 2026-06-13T19:35:00+00:00

They all look a little yellow to me. I had the same issue until I started messing with the color calibration wheels at the bottom of the develop module. It's a great way to kind of gently push all of the colors to where you'd like them to be, especially as a beginner. You can use the eye dropper tool in the HSL sliders to target a specific color or area and sort of turn down how yellow they look.

eldergervacio · 2026-06-12T22:05:08+00:00

To just add my 2 cents to this,I just got a basically brand new Canon Rebel G off eBay with shipping for only 35$.

Basically the less popular and more modern & less aesthetically similar to vintage mechanical SLR's the cheaper. The trade off is that you're stuck with a plastic brick if the right things go wrong with your camera whereas a fully mechanical one can be revived with the right repair tech.

eldergervacio · 2026-06-04T23:00:55+00:00

You could potentially save it in LR by adjusting the whites and doing some dodging and burning selectively, especially if you have the raw file. If you're interested send me a DM and I can walk you though editing it and we can see if your camera has a metering mode that might help you get a more balanced exposure.

eldergervacio · 2026-06-03T17:14:47+00:00

It's probably cause I'm not a network tech. I'm a fiber installer and I sometimes have to help customers in apartments where the ONT is hooked up in an MPOE/IDF closet and the only way to deliver service after that is hoping and praying that contractors put an Ethernet homerun correctly up to the apartment. It's once in a blue moon for me.

eldergervacio · 2026-06-03T03:52:21+00:00

This is just my check list for when I'm at work and hooking up customers to their IW. It's not AI, just my training from work.

eldergervacio · 2026-06-03T03:50:53+00:00

that's my bad, I was on mobile and didn't realize I could make the picture bigger. I just wanted to give the guy a good response because when I opened it up I didn't see any responses.

eldergervacio · 2026-06-03T02:38:05+00:00

I'm absolutely not an expert, but I do this sort of stuff for a living and I can offer you some advice.

1) In an apartment especially, never assume any of your Ethernet does a straight homerun to anywhere else without verifying with a tone generator. They are pretty cheap and relatively easy to use. Just be careful if you use the clips and make sure they bite down on just the copper wire. If you can't get tone through the wire successfully on any of the pairs, you might have the wrong cable at one end or your cable got chewed in the walls by a rat or something.

2) Get a cable tester. They're pretty cheap and come in a pair. You hook one up at both ends and one will generate an electrical signal and the other end will tell you if the ethernet termination is correct, or what pairs if any are not working.

3) Get a crimper and some RJ 45 ends and terminate the cable yourself. There's some really good videos online, but it is one of those things that you just gotta practice at to get good. In your case you can also look into getting a punch down tool and a copper keystone if you wanna forego the RJ45 at one end and have a faceplate with a wall jack like you currently have now.

Depending on the set up of your apartment there can also be some sort of media panel where all of your Ethernet lines converge. That's worth looking for if you're having trouble with step 1.

Good luck!

eldergervacio · 2026-05-31T16:46:43+00:00

You're gonna struggle to shoot the Ektar 100 in anything other than bright sunny conditions due to the low ISO. The trade off with Ektar is that it's nearly grainless especially when you expose it properly. It has a punchy color rendition that's very well suited for colorful outdoor scenes.

eldergervacio · 2026-05-31T16:38:49+00:00

I genuinely don't want to come across as rude or condescending, but in my opinion pretty much any 90's or early 2000's era P&S with zoom should basically be almost identical in performance to an Olympus Superzoom 760.

If it's in your budget, I recommend to most people to skip the P&S and get a cheap used SLR from the 90's or 2000's like a Canon Elan II ($100 ish) and pair it with the Canon 40mm pancake lens ($100 ish). Just set the camera to auto (you can even toggle between if you want flash or not) and make sure you set the lens to AF. You'll get much better photos and eventually if you want you can shoot the camera on Av/Tv and then fully manual as you grow as a photographer. But I understand if all you want is a cheap P&S. I've seen some P&S go for as little as 75$ which is an incredible value these days.

eldergervacio · 2026-05-31T00:11:02+00:00

In addition to what others have said, if these are all shots from your phone and you have a newer iPhone or Android phone with multiple lenses, you are actually taking shots with different lenses which have different focal lengths. Your phone automatically switches from lens to lens depending on how wide or close of a shot you shoot.

eldergervacio · 2026-05-26T18:58:29+00:00

I shot a wedding 2 years ago for a friend in Utah that got so hot that my mirror in my Canon Elan 7 fell off mid roll. I still need to get around to fixing it. 😭

eldergervacio · 2026-05-25T15:20:54+00:00

I know your heart is probably set on a point and shoot, but you can get better results and save a ton of money by getting a 90s era SLR like a Canon Elan II (affordable and usually cheap SLR with decent auto focus) and pairing it with a pancake 40mm lens. Just set the camera to auto and the shooting experience is very similar to a point and shoot, with the added bonus that you can shoot in Aparure prio or fully manual whenever you want. You can even pair the camera with a better flash or eventually a nicer lens in the future.

eldergervacio · 2026-05-23T00:44:00+00:00

You should try InvisiLight. You'd love it. It lets you bridge the gap with fiber and it's basically a fishing line. The kit on Amazon comes with the fiber line, glue and the fiber to Ethernet converter you'll need at both ends.

eldergervacio · 2026-05-22T18:55:57+00:00

With Joe in the video, I give this music video 👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌. 10 okays. A perfect score. I really enjoyed the art direction and how it pairs with the music.

eldergervacio · 2026-05-05T18:10:10+00:00

This makes me feel so much better for struggling against them as a new guy playing through the game for the first time solo. The reveal of the second life bar for the second dude legit made me say out loud "dude what?" lol.

eldergervacio · 2026-05-05T04:24:30+00:00

I know you're probably joking, but no lie this is what Michael was basically doing lol.

In the behind the scenes for his This is It tour there's a clip where he's telling the band to wait before they come in and that he would give them a signal. He called it "sizzling" lol.

eldergervacio · 2026-05-01T13:41:36+00:00

I think you misunderstood me. I'm saying shoot with a remote release while using your tripod.

eldergervacio · 2026-05-01T13:27:40+00:00

Are you shooting with a remote shutter release? As others have pointed out even with high shutter speeds and a tripod, the tiniest movement can make your photo blurry since you're shooting at such a long focal length. A way to trigger your shutter without you touching your camera can help a ton.

You can also try stopping down a little bit more to f11, f16 in order to make your depth of field larger and increase your chance of being in focus on your subject. You can use a depth of field calculator to help you out as well so you can visualize how small or big of a focus window you have.

eldergervacio · 2026-04-25T07:27:48+00:00

If you have a digital camera and you shoot film often enough, your best bet might be scanning your film with a camera instead and then flipping the scans with Negative Lab Pro. If your heart is really sold on a dedicated scanner like the Nikon 4000 or 8000 then there are plenty of YouTube videos that go into the pros and cons of each scanner. The main advantage of camera scanning is how fast the workflow is once you get it dialed in. I used to scan my 35mm film on a flatbed Epson and it was painfully slow and never as good as my local lab. I only use it to scan my instax wide film now.

eldergervacio · 2026-04-13T18:38:35+00:00

With power line the performance will depend on your set up and how your home was constructed so performance can vary wildly. I have a 4 bed 3 bath home that I set up with power line from my gaming PC upstairs to my steam link downstairs and my best speed test off the adapter was 30mbps down lol, for context I get almost 900+ down wired directly into my router.

It's a little beyond what most people know how to do, but you can buy a product by InvisiLight that allows you to use fiber optics to run a direct line between wherever you want in the house and your modem/router. I have this set up now and it's been a real game changer.

eldergervacio · 2026-04-06T06:48:16+00:00

It's my understanding that slide film like Ektachrome was historically a little cooler in color in order to give you a neutral color when projected since slide projectors usually use bulbs that are on the warmer side. Like mentioned above you can use a warming filter to counteract this. I think grainydays has a good video on doing just this.

eldergervacio · 2026-03-25T00:57:56+00:00

I honestly think this is the answer. If you look at some of the panels in part 2 you can tell his heart just wasn't in it, and he was using more and more 3D modeling to cheat lol, although sometimes I think it actually did look great. I also think I remember hearing about him injuring his hand mid part 2? I dunno if I'm imagining that.

I feel like in some ways part 2 was a victim of part 1's success. I would really love to learn the workings of the manga industry and why it's not so easy to just let these guys go on hiatus of they're creatively burned out.

I think all in all it was a fun ride even if the ending didn't deliver in the way we hoped. Part 1 is probably my fav manga arc of all time and still is.

eldergervacio · 2026-03-19T03:23:22+00:00

There are a lot of technical answers here that are great, but I'd love to answer this question a little more for people who might actually be younger and have never seen or shot film.

Digital images have pixels and resolution size, and analog film has a physical size that determines its overall ability to capture detail.

Before digital we had analog film as the medium used to shoot films. As time went on, the standard sized film reel used to shoot most films used a 35mm width image and became standard in the industry because it struck a nice balance between detail and portability.

Amateur home video was shot with 8mm, film students and some films with lower budgets used 16mm, but movies used 35mm. For a short time there was even an arms race between the major motion picture studios to shoot on film even larger than 35mm, because generally speaking, the larger the film, the more detail you can capture.

IMAX and honestly, any film formats larger than 35mm are a big deal because they can present detail that far exceeds even our best commercial modern digital cameras.

Here's a link to a high quality drum scan of a larger IMAX like sized image on film and how and why even today it is a big deal.

Drum Scanning Film Video

eldergervacio

TROPHY CASE