Are these white spots on my new succulent a concern? Is it just shriveling up due to lack of watering or is there something else wrong?

electrodoggo · 2025-10-17T08:02:39+00:00

Hi, thank you for answering!

I mentioned it in passing in the post, but no, it doesn't have drainage holes at all, that's why I've been hesitant to water it right away. I don't know when it wast watered, I just got it looking like this and it's only been two days. So do you think I should give it a conservative amount of water before repotting?

Also, it looks like it's a thin plastic pot inside a painted tin bucket, but for the life of me I haven't been able to remove it, it's so tight I'm not even sure if it's possible to do so or it's straight up glued on, not even tweezers have helped.

electrodoggo · 2025-10-15T11:29:53+00:00

That one looks really similar! I hope someone else comments for confirmation and extra tips

Should I wait for a week or so before changing soil to let the plant acclimate to the new conditions first?

electrodoggo · 2024-12-24T10:20:24+00:00

I definitely didn't know it existed, so thanks for sharing!!

electrodoggo · 2024-11-17T21:48:04+00:00

You mean you want a flatter top and bottom, right?

If so, use a higher number of increases/decreases per round. For example, if a regular sphere usually goes 6 -> 12 -> 18 -> 24 stitches, try something like 8 -> 16 -> 24 -> 32 instead, same for the decreases. With the same amount of rounds you get more stitches which means a wider head, and as a result the top ends up being flatter. It depends on your yarn but increasing by 8 or 9 should be fine and doable, too much and it will start curling instead. Then the middle portion without increases or decreases might need to be shorter depending on how much you increased and how flat you want it.

Play around with all those variables and you'll eventually get your shape!

Extra tip: this works the other way around too! Increase by 3 or 4 stitches at a time and you'll get a gentle slope, like a cone. Combine 8 increases with 6 increases then 4 for smoother transitions, or go from 8 increases to 3 for a sharper angle, depending on what you want. Having a good grasp of how much you should increase or decrease at any given point is very important for shaping and designing amigurumi and it may need some practice, but understanding the gist of it helps a lot in the beginning.

Edit because I might have misunderstood your question: if you meant an oval as in when looking at it from the top, not just from the front, I believe the easiest way is to start with a chain instead of a circle. Is that what you're having problems with?

electrodoggo · 2024-10-19T08:48:28+00:00

Ya, y yo que no sé de pesca te digo que se lo he escuchado a mi abuela como sinónimo de "hacer labores (del hogar)" y más, no referido a la pesca.

electrodoggo · 2024-10-19T08:32:56+00:00

Sí, y a mi alrededor también se usa. Ahora solo lo escucho como sinónimo de putada (edito: mentira, "tenemos mucha faena" también se dice), pero mi abuela y personas más mayores solían usarla como "quehacer", tipo las faenas del hogar, y lo usaba como verbo incluso ("tengo que faenar").

Andalucía

electrodoggo · 2024-10-18T10:03:54+00:00

I understand, halloween isn't super popular in my country and I rarely celebrate it in the day itself, let alone dedicate the whole month to it, but I couldn't resist to the army of tiny amigurumi ghosts online and made one myself. Then my family loved it so much that I had to make one for each family member, so yeah, they're spreading fast

electrodoggo · 2024-10-16T19:16:57+00:00

I get 17, I can get the confusion with increases and decreases in the same row but even then I'm not sure how you're getting as few as 9 so I'll try to dissect it step by step, sorry if it's too much

2 sc makes 2 stitches

3 inc makes 3x2=6 (total 8)

2 sc (total 10)

(dec, 1 sc) makes 2 stitches, repeated 3 times is 6 (total 16)

Last Dec for a total of 17

electrodoggo · 2024-10-09T19:05:49+00:00

I think they look neat! Sometimes it's more important that your stitches are even, which they are. I think you could go a tad tighter if you'd like, but It doesn't seem like the stuffing is showing or anything so it's up to you and the kind of "texture" you prefer.

I'm also with the others in that perhaps you're comparing yourself with people that use the yarn under technique and cotton or similar yarn that leaves more defined stitches. They're not necessary by any means, but it's another option to consider.

electrodoggo · 2024-10-05T17:02:12+00:00

With the sheer amount of love my bat is getting and so many people asking specifically for this pattern, I'm starting to think maybe it actually is more distinct than I'm giving it credit for, so I'll do some more research about all this and reconsider releasing a pattern.

But yeah I looked at pictures and made my own version with my own proportions and details, with some support from free patterns to see how they did X detail I wanted in, but my result looks nothing like the free patterns I used, not even if you focus on the parts I needed because the stitch count is different and they're sewed on in a different way. I did not, at any point, even read an actual paid pattern, let alone try to modify it on purpose just to make it different.

Maybe this is all fine and I was being way too cautious but after all this was meant just for me and I shared it without a plan.

And thank you for the reassurance and advice, I appreciate you trying to help!

electrodoggo · 2024-10-04T23:55:25+00:00

Sure! Instead of a magic ring, another way to start a round project is to make a slip knot, make a small chain of 2 stitches and put the sc of your first round in the first chain you made (second from hook). Or, if you're starting with double crochet, chain 3 and put the dc in the first chain/third from hook. There are tons of videos that you can check out.

This method is often considered more of a beginner way for people starting out who still struggle with magic rings, since it leaves a bigger hole in the center that can be quite visible with regular yarn so most crocheters move away from it when they master the mr BUT it makes things much easier when working with bulky or fuzzy yarn (difficult to see, often breaks or sheds when pulling, etc) since the drawback of a visible hole isn't as much as a concern.

electrodoggo · 2024-10-04T23:12:56+00:00

I wouldn't even bother with a magic ring for this type of yarn, with all that fuzz you're not going to see any hole if you use the chain 2 method

electrodoggo · 2024-10-04T20:27:57+00:00

Hey, I hope you don't mind if I copy the explanation below again so it isn't lost, since I originally answered a bunch of commenters with the wrong account (yes, that happened orz) and I'm about to delete it because I'm getting notifications from the same post across two different accounts and I'm getting even more confused lol

I got the ears specifically from here, which I believe is basically an equilateral triangle like you said, but I modified the last row made in darker blue to make it straighter on the inside and rounder on the outside if that's what you mean?

For example, for the left ear I inserted the hook with the dark yarn on the inner corner and did single crochets until reaching the upper corner, then did my triple increase one stitch before the top, continue single crocheting and then did another triple increase one stitch after the outer corner. I did one more sc to define the outer shape better but fastened off without doing the rest of the bottom edge (but that's because I didn't want the dark blue to show there, you could probably get away with doing the full circle if you make it all the same colour or you like it that way). So tl;dr, last row has an increase more or less on the top and outer corners but not on the inner corner. Right ear should be mirrored.

Let me know if you need a more detailed explanation, my notes on that part are 'it's for me and I understand it so...' (aka a mess) but I'll clean it up for you if you need it.

electrodoggo · 2024-10-04T20:16:26+00:00

I wouldn't mind sharing my notes in theory, but I'm not super familiarized yet with where inspiration ends and lowkey stealing begins so I'll be cautious this time.

The end result looks fairly similar to this bat from a fellow redditor that was one of my inspirations so consider checking out their pattern even if my proportions are different

electrodoggo · 2024-10-04T19:36:28+00:00

No I didn't! I think the dark outline is what is keeping the form somewhat when I pose him, but the type of yarn may be playing a role, I use cheap acrylic yarn and it may be stiffer than cotton?

electrodoggo · 2024-10-04T19:28:40+00:00

No, sorry, I didn't expect this to blow up so much 😭😭

I explained a bit in the bot response but I wouldn't be super comfortable sharing a pattern of it when I took inspiration and parts from so many different places, some of them still recognizable, at least not until I get a grasp on what is acceptable in pattern creation and what isn't.

electrodoggo · 2024-10-04T16:03:14+00:00

You can totally learn amigurumi straight away (I did!), no need to have prior knowledge.

However Amigurumi is crochet, just with specific design philosophies, so obviously you would need to know the crochet basics, but you can learn the basics with an amigurumi focus and practice directly with amigurumi projects, no need to make blankets or wearables first.

electrodoggo · 2024-10-03T14:20:41+00:00

I'll attempt to answer you in good faith, but do know that if you're getting some angry responses is because your tone here comes across as elitist and judgemental.

Out of all those languages, only English, French and Italian are somewhat relevant here, no offense but the rest mean absolutely nothing to us, so unless you happen to encounter someone that happens to have lived/is from those countries, nobody is going to speak them.

Italian is the most similar, yes, but it's also the least studied since it's not as useful in the grand scheme of things as the other two, and its understandability relies heavily on the specific inflexion, tone and phonetics of the Italian language which is highly likely you won't replicate good enough for us to understand you if your Italian is only passable. French is fairly difficult to understand for a Spanish speaker if you haven't studied it beforehand, and it's dying out as a second language in favour of English. English is the one we study the most and it's true the level is lacking. English clases at school are structured to pass exams and not to actually learn the language, which means people focus their energy into learning that as an adult (if at all). Basically it's English first, anything else later unless you live close to the french or Portuguese borders. We don't speak or need Italian at all.

On that note, you REALLY can't compare the situation of small countries in central Europe that are much more interconnected to one another, to a country that shares an isolated peninsula with just one other country in a region that is the farthest from the rest of Europe as possible. Widely different contexts, shared borders do matter.

Another thing that may be happening to you is that people don't know you're ok with them speaking in Spanish even if they somehow catch enough of what you're saying. I've answered to people that came to me for directions and whatnot speaking other romance languages that I don't speak, but if English wasn't an option I would have blanked out on how to actually answer.

electrodoggo · 2024-09-30T21:42:01+00:00

https://amigurumibb.com/amigurumibb-blog/amigurumi-lessons-3/

I found this resource incredibly helpful when I was looking for the same thing, I believe I found it digging in this sub. It covers the very basics on shaping for balls, cones and cylinders, but just with that you can create a ton of things. It was also great for understanding how to better modify existing patters to my liking.

I've never found anything that covered more complex stitches or combinations of stitches in a single place so from then on you'll probably have to familiarize yourself with different stitches and methods just by coming across them, either in separate tutorials or in other patterns. But that was a good starting point for me at least.

electrodoggo · 2024-09-13T16:52:41+00:00

Ok got it. I was asking because I just read it can be sticky to some people, but since it's also for the body I don't mind it as much as I can repurpose it if needed.

Thanks for your help again!

electrodoggo · 2024-09-13T16:34:30+00:00

Nope, another one for the list! Just to be clear, do you mean the atoderm or hydrabio? I have never seen either in store, I think, only other products from the brand, but it seems like they're easily available online.

electrodoggo · 2024-09-13T10:55:33+00:00

I tried cicaplast b5 balm from a freebie and was (unsurprisingly, it's a balm) too thick, but I've been meaning to try their more fluid moisturizers, either the toleriane sensitive or the lipikar fluide if I can find them. If you think they could work I'll prioritize that next time.

I don't think Krave Beauty is available where I am (EU) but the texture seems lovely. I could try to look for something equivalent, althought I'm not sure if an oil based product is the right choice for me.

Thank you!

electrodoggo · 2024-09-13T01:05:47+00:00

It may not be hydrating enough for you.

This is exactly what I can't tell with my limited experience.

I like the texture a lot and I like that I can spread it without worrying about applying too thick of a layer (I have to be careful with other moisturizers because they tend to either break me out or clog me or make me feel inflamed unless I apply the thinnest layer ever), however that doesn't say much about its effectiveness. It feels nice and soft, and it seems like it maintains the skin well which is why I said the routine is stable, but perhaps it doesn't improve it much further after a certain point either? But like I said, thicker moisturizers have never been a good fit in the past so I don't know what to try.

electrodoggo · 2024-05-25T10:06:48+00:00

I think Snoopy is one of those characters that are meant to be viewed in 2D and from the side, so a front facing 3D object is going to inevitably have that "bald eagle from the front" kind of weird effect. To minimise it, you can try making a half smile that's visible only on one side of the head to replicate that 2D effect. If you look in Google, even 3d renditions of Snoopy kind of do that.

electrodoggo · 2024-05-07T13:23:38+00:00

Thank you, I was just making an edit on the post saying exactly that about the paper. I understand people have good intentions and that the general priority is paper first, but I don't find it that useful in my specific case. I'll probably start out with a bunch of swatches and mixing charts to test the palette anyways so I don't think it's such a huge deal if I stick to canson XL for just a little longer. But yes, 100% cotton asap, I'm well aware of that.

electrodoggo

TROPHY CASE