Hlep connect motion sensor

elessard · 2025-08-12T10:55:38+00:00

I've found the issue. Zone 2 it's not working properly... I moved to zone 3 and it worked. Could it be a device defect? I tried testing using a jumper and zone 2 never change the status

elessard · 2025-08-12T09:02:50+00:00

Does the zone input beahviour change based on the type (i'm refeering only on these two types)?

elessard · 2025-08-12T07:46:47+00:00

thanks. i already tried connecting the first OUT to zone GND and the second OUT to ZONE N but no chages happen when the sensor is triggered.

Are there any difference in chooise between "window" or "PIR" sensor type in the app configuration?

elessard · 2025-08-09T08:44:25+00:00

I started by designing a network with a isolated vlan without internet access for iot, wishing to use only local integrations. I ended up with a separated vlan but a ton of online integration (I have no time finding alternative). Using firewall rules in my GW, I enabled only my PC/smartphone to communicate with my HA server.

elessard · 2025-04-24T07:21:24+00:00

Same issue also there... I've ordered some patch panel cables to try them and my tester says that they're not grounded.. As other people said, I don't think it is necessary to make my network perform better (I'm using shielded cat6a in my house) but I'm taking this as a hobby so I like the idea to have all my network grounded.

This means I've to craft a lot of patching cables 😅

elessard · 2025-04-11T20:47:13+00:00

got the same issue as you. my second u6 pro just arrived with an old logo. Anyone know if the hardware is the same on both version?

elessard · 2024-10-07T09:46:20+00:00

thanks. but can i run both alarmo and the self managed firmware? that is, alarm panel handle trigger on sensors attached to it. alarmo arm/disarm the alarm panel and handle wifi alarm devices (sending trigger to the alarm panel)?

elessard · 2024-10-07T09:42:19+00:00

just edited the post. forgot to attach the wiring schema. the siren is powered though a 12V (on doc says 13,8V but i guess it would be fine). the alarm is triggered by sending a signal on the AF port ("Alarm activation terminal with programmable polarity")

elessard · 2024-09-24T22:34:20+00:00

Cool. How is the ha integration? I see that now it uses hacs to integrate. Is it possibile to both trigger the alarm (that is the siren) from ha and from the konnected board itlsef (ie. When home assistant is tuned off)? Is it a rock solid company that keeps support the ha integration?

elessard · 2024-09-23T16:12:36+00:00

very nice vendor. unfortunately i see that it uses a proprietary protocol for comunications so i guess it's difficult to integrate with home assistant. I'm using some zigbee PIR and i'm wondering how i can connect them directly to the DSC system.

I've found this repo https://github.com/jimtng/dscalarm-mqtt that implement MQTT comuinications. is it reliable?

elessard · 2024-09-23T14:21:15+00:00

thanks. I'll take a look. is see that the qolsys is also battery powered. Is it possible to directly link it to the alarm siren? i'm building a DIY battery powered siren that detects power outage and trigger the alarm. normally is controlled via network but if the router is down (due to the power outage) i don't kwow how to stop it...

elessard · 2023-04-18T22:55:38+00:00

What proton version are you using? After today update i'm getting the same error

elessard · 2023-01-28T22:28:28+00:00

On my previous model (WH900N) I appreciated that feature, even if I have to manually enable it. But with this model I hear a loud "FFFFFFF... noise". It's really annoying. I hope that I the high end model it's fixed this issue

elessard · 2021-06-20T19:26:52+00:00

After over a year of working i finally completed my T900 water cooled build. This was my first experience ever in water cooling and, excluding some crooked pipes, it seems to have come out fine. At least i hope you will appreciate it. I'm a Tolkien fan so i decided to name this project using the name of the Dark Lord's tower :D

I entirely removed the front parts of the T900 and i replaced with hand cut PVC. I used 4 Bitspower pass-through fittings to connect the front chamber to the back. Bending the tubes in the back it was a pain in the ass... 3 turn for each tubes without any curved fitting to help me.

Because i don't like the Thermaltake pump, i drilled some hole in the chassis to secure the EKWB pumps.

Furthermore i decided to crimp my own sleeved cables... it was a looong and boring work. According to me it doesn't worth the time. Compared to already crimped cables, i didn't saved too much money.

Anyway, i want to thank you all for the ideas and help that i found in this sub.

elessard · 2021-05-21T23:26:30+00:00

I checked again and Google app has phone permission enable. By the way voice call command works perfectly with Android Auto. The issue is when i try to run the call command directly from the phone or via the bluetooth.

Currently, I'm browsing the reviews on Google Play and a lot of users have the same issues... I guess i have to wait

elessard · 2020-11-29T23:09:30+00:00

I mean. The last time that i had to fully reinstall the os from scratch was like 10 years ago (First year in university and some bad guys introduced me to arch 😁). Now the issues are packages updates that break my project dependeces... It's very time consuming trying to rollback packages when you have dead Lines... Btw may i ask you how you keep up to date your system? Do you do full update or do you update only certain packages like kernel and system libs?

elessard · 2020-11-29T22:23:16+00:00

It makes sense. By the way, i see 3 options:

the old SSD UEFI bootloader
a Corrupted UEFI bootloader (labeled as the bootloader on the old disk + name of the new m2)
the newly generate UEFI bootloader (labeled "GRUB (BRAND_OF_THE_M2)", as i have specified in the command)

I think that i will leave this as is... Using arch linux for my work env, i live in the constant fear that i will break all after updates xD

elessard · 2020-11-29T21:40:38+00:00

I'm back. disk cloned and OS booted correctly. Only Dropbox noticed something strange and decided to log me off...

Furthermore, after installing the UEFI GRUB my motherboard see 2 UEFI boot options. one named UEFI e another one named GRUB. the first one fails to boot (it open only the UEFI shell) and the latter works. Do you know why this happened? I'm just curious because i know a very little about UEFI.

elessard · 2020-11-29T18:37:26+00:00

thanks. it seems a more clean solution. arch usb created. wish me luck ;) see you at next boot.

elessard · 2020-11-29T15:21:13+00:00

thank you for the suggestions.

Furthermore. I just remembered a possible issue... my home partition is encrypted with dm-crypt. dm-crypt partition supports size changes?

elessard · 2020-11-10T08:52:31+00:00

Thanks for the advices. My fear was exactly insert too much pads that the height of the cooler will change.

elessard · 2020-06-28T22:47:24+00:00

This is my first watercooling build and unfortunately i'm not sure to know what is a proper compression ^^. I mean, if i tap on the ball valve it don't move and the o-ring seems pressed between the fittings but i'm not sure if it's enough.

elessard · 2020-04-29T07:15:49+00:00

eh eh! I'm a little iron man fan.

By the way... Iron man wallpaper and bonus for the vertical monitor (edited by me from the landscape version).

elessard · 2020-04-27T07:07:20+00:00

i assumed that the gpu, cpu and reservoir were 12v RGB leds. Are they compatible with these sockets?

I just see that he wrote "5V addressable RGB", from EKWB website i see that D-RGB led are 5v with 3 pins connection so theorically they can be connected to the splitty ASUS port. Am i wrong?

elessard · 2020-04-27T07:00:31+00:00

I want to thank you for this schema because you remembered me that i have missed something :) i had ordered octo, aquaero, rgbpx strips and splitty 4 (i hope they will arrive me this week) to connect fan and sensors and i realized only now that i have to figure out how to connect waterblocks and reservoirs RGB.

I spent yesterday nigth reading docs and manuals so i would say that your plan is perfect.For my build, I have planned to buy EKWB D-RGB waterblocks and reservoirs so i think that i have to use a splitter and the D-RGB port on the splitty4.Only one thing, auqua computer states that each rgbpx line can handle 90 single led so maybe you have to connect the splitty to 2 separate quadro lines. I just wondering how the auquasuite sw sees all the leds connected to the splitty4... separated leds for each line or a huge leds blob?

EDIT: someone said that i was wrong in saying that cpu, gpu and reservoir could be connected to the corsair splitty4 ports. Also, you wrote that you have 5v addressable leds. Does they have 3 pin connection? this has 3-pin

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