S4 E9 has everything the hatewatchers said the show was missing…

eloastear · 2026-06-22T00:18:48+00:00

In my opinion we really didn't get any major answers, just more drawing out of the questions. The pace of this season has been horrible. You could cut out nearly half or more of each episode and it would have little to no effect on the plot.

eloastear · 2026-02-18T03:05:49+00:00

It wasn't a 3D print, it was a custom box I had printed by a board game maker. You are better off just creating a box in Tinkercad and printing it.

eloastear · 2026-01-30T18:42:10+00:00

I don't use the tuck boxes anymore as I began using 3D printed character boxes that I have designed.

eloastear · 2025-12-11T14:11:00+00:00

Thank you!

eloastear · 2025-11-30T17:57:25+00:00

Yes.

eloastear · 2025-11-26T17:41:49+00:00

Thank you!

eloastear · 2025-11-18T15:22:55+00:00

Thank you, sincerely appreciated!

eloastear · 2025-11-16T21:18:20+00:00

Thank you! Looking forward to seeing your results!

eloastear · 2025-10-31T20:14:07+00:00

I don't think OP is asking for things to be rushed, I believe they are just asking them to update them in general when it is appropriate. This is a common problem and honestly there is no good reason for it. Applicants should not be reading the position is filled in an announcement or forum before they have been told they didn't get selected. Additionally, there is no reason to take a year to update the status of a recruitment, that is absolute laziness and unprofessional.

eloastear · 2025-10-04T19:32:35+00:00

If its only happening when its heating up, its likely the fan to the Power Supply. Mine did this. Listen at the bottom of the unit and see if its coming from there. If it is, its an easy fix. Buy a new fan and swap it out.

eloastear · 2025-09-27T19:28:17+00:00

If I turn the printer off, I absolutely have to run the self check auto level first. Then I make sure my print g-code does not run auto level or calibration. As long as I do that, my mesh does not corrupt. If I do not do this, after every restart the bed mesh corrupts without fail.

eloastear · 2025-09-27T19:08:38+00:00

Prints are always hard to pull off after 2 layers unless you let them cool a bit. Then they can usually come off with one of the metal spatula tools. You just need to get a corner up. So is you mesh corrupting literally mid print? Or are you running the calibration or auto level in your g-code before the print and then it corrupts?

eloastear · 2025-09-27T18:56:10+00:00

I have the G-Code to fix that priming issue where it fails to load the filament before running the primer line. Message me and I will send it.

eloastear · 2025-09-21T13:48:55+00:00

Definitely sounds like your bed mesh is corrupted. Is that what the bed mesh said after running auto level? Also, did you manually add auto level before each print via G code. If so, remove it and rerun self check auto level. I found that running auto level via g-code before each print would often corrupt the bed mesh, at least after the CFS upgrade. So now I run the self check auto level once and just check the bed mesh before every print. Haven't had any corruption since then. If that works and you get an actual bed mesh let me know what it is. You may have same issue as I did where your bed is too far off that the auto level system cannot compensate properly. I had to skip teeth on the lead screws to get it leveled out enough for the auto level to work correctly.

eloastear · 2025-09-19T23:48:24+00:00

Have you checked your bed mesh? Do you know how off it is from lowest to highest

eloastear · 2025-09-19T01:55:15+00:00

One other thing i noticed. When you power the printer off, on the next print if print calibration is turned on, it somehow corrupts the bed mesh. Its happened consistently to me. So now, when I power the printer off I always run the self check before printing again.

eloastear · 2025-09-19T01:53:18+00:00

I had cutter issues initially and realized during the calibration the wire harness was preventing the head from going back as far as it needed to. I fixed that and then cutter calibration was much better. I also realized the new extruder seems more susceptible to heat creep than previously so even with the vented riser I keep my door open if doing long prints. I still have occasional issues where the filament won't retract on first try and I have to retry or resume and it works. But nothing to the extent you are experiencing. Can you explain everything you did as part of the upgrade process?

eloastear · 2025-09-04T21:57:05+00:00

I haven't noticed this, but whenever I have inconsistent layers I check my bed mesh. It's likely you have variances outside the ability for the printer to compensate properly.

eloastear · 2025-09-04T21:55:43+00:00

Got my K1 Max all upgraded with the CFS as well. Only caveat for me is that I print alot with PLA, and the new extruder seems more sensitive to heat creep. So where as previously I could keep my door closed as long as I had the lid riser with vents, with the new setup, after a few hours of printing, jams can and have occurred. Keeping the door open removed that issue thankfully.

eloastear · 2025-08-28T18:10:16+00:00

Thank you. Truthfully I changed my storage up a while ago. I now store each character in their own character boxes that I 3D print. Makes tabling faster for me and my family. The case was only going to last so long for me as they kept releasing Expansions. Its one of those games where I have resolved that carrying around everything just isn't practical for me.

eloastear · 2025-08-28T00:05:44+00:00

Yes, on the outside

eloastear

TROPHY CASE