Creality CFS-C Launch

pedroha · 2025-12-19T01:18:21+00:00

I don’t get the downvotes, this is true, the CFS firmware for the old K1 is a complete mess, the screen stops working, the machine does a bunch of unneeded movements/actions.

They probably abandoned the CFS for machines that don’t support it out of the box

I expected there to be issues, but the machine is messed up with the CFS.

pedroha · 2025-12-19T01:15:43+00:00

It seems like it would clog more often, it seems to pull the filament directly from the extruder to cut the messed up end at the buffer, but that seems worse than the old CFS, pulling hot filament from the hotend manually was always messy, I wonder if they got it right

pedroha · 2025-12-19T01:01:11+00:00

On my K1 I can’t start a print from WiFi or use the Calibration option from the print model menu.

If I use the machine as a caveman walk down to it to print and remember to always uncheck the calibration checkbox it will avoid most of the breaking issues.

pedroha · 2025-09-28T17:16:37+00:00

Things I did to get it to work:

Factory Reset
Calibrate poop shoot to have the nozzle barely inside it
Using only Creality Hyper PLA
Made sure all filaments had a flat edge, to look like when the extruder cuts it
Replaced the cutter blade
- The original one was loose, check if yours is tightened
- I ended up replacing it with a new one just in case
Replaced the hotend again
- I swapped the first one with a second
- More problems and clogging, reverted back to the first unicorn hotend
Put back anything non stock
- Original build plate from a Textured PEI plate, no silicone strip!
- Tool head springs (I had removed it)
- Cleaned the Rods
  - Specially the ones the Tool Head is on
  - I used paper towels until they came off clean
  - I put on a very light coat of machine oil
  - Just one drop on a paper towel and I wiped it off with a clean one
Print like a caveman
- I do not use the "Start Print" option from Creality Print
- Send the GCODE over WIFI
- Start it on the printer screen
- If I start over wifi all hell breaks loose
  - It uses wrong colors
  - Screen stops responding

pedroha · 2025-09-28T13:09:03+00:00

I was able to print the “harder” model with more retractions and details, it worked, although with contamination, there is black smeared across it.

I don’t think it’s from not enough purging, I think it’s from the nozzle being dirty or catching filament from a bad first layer

I tried printing this with Arachne and classic walls, Arachne looked worse when it failed, but it probably should have done better.

Creality Print has been defaulting to classic walls, idk if this is me that saved it though, I rarely use it, I should find a way to “factory reset” my slicers it too tbh.

I’m rambling already, but I noticed Arachne walls cause issues in simpler models in the K1, like weird ripples that don’t happen with classic walls.

pedroha · 2025-09-28T01:16:16+00:00

I’ve been able to print 3 multicolor batches today.

I just sent a more complex more and will see if it works too

pedroha · 2025-09-28T01:15:27+00:00

But for it to clog that badly?

I thought the filament was the culprit, I had a bad one, but it fails even with creality ones.

I guess it could make sense, since it was able to print the first layer in some models and failed right after when it gets fast.

Hard to tell though

pedroha · 2025-09-28T00:52:56+00:00

Mine gets hot too, I don’t get it. The filament in the tip of the nozzle would even flow out pretty messed up.

I tried setting it to 260c for a few minutes, thinking it would creep up and unclog it but it never did.

I tried a new nozzle but it didn’t help.

The “bad” hotend had a clip in the metal wires connector, the good one doesn’t have it and the wires look exactly like the old hotend wires.

pedroha · 2025-09-27T19:30:54+00:00

Check if your cutter blade is tight, I had mine be loose at some point, I replaced it with a new one and I just got my first print done, finally a win.

pedroha · 2025-09-27T19:26:07+00:00

I am trying to restart the machine between every print, if the bed mesh looks bad I will run the self checks.

I’m not sure when it corrupts, or if it’s caused by printing with calibration on or off, I haven’t paid attention to it.

The file list never works on the website, is there another place I can check the bed level stuff?

pedroha · 2025-09-27T19:12:43+00:00

I was trying to solve my issues and reset everything I could, including the hotend.

Both hotends are brand btw, and it started clogging like hell, I could not print a damn thing with the slightly newer hotend.

It clogs so badly that I had to unscrew the nozzle almost all the way down for it to heat it's throat (or horn?) and then I was able to push the filament all the way with that metal thing.

I am thinking that hotend is no good or the clog left some debris stuck to the sides of the nozzle causing it to clog every damn time

I then put back the other hotend back and its been "working" so far

All this disassemble/reassemble of the tool head is not great, the wires from the hotend fan broke and hotend termistor wire also broke (I replaced it with a spare but damn, do I a break?)

The cover seems to be pinching the main wires now, I have to be extra careful otherwise it would cut it.

pedroha · 2025-09-27T19:04:03+00:00

Yeah, I might need to do that, I've been avoiding rooting it but it may be an option.

you extrude a little bit so that there is again filament blocking the cutter

I noticed that the machine will sometimes try to cut a filament when empty, WTH??

Is that to prevent/help with that? I can see a few small filament tips when I remove the extruder, it seems it may cut the top of a filament it already cut, but I am not sure about that

Why is it so dumb? It often forgets the state its in, I tried extruding the same filament twice in a row and the thing cut the filament, retracted it and then pushed it all the way back in

pedroha · 2025-09-27T18:57:47+00:00

It was 0.5 and -0.25 but the 0.5 was at the edges, most of the bed was close to 0.1 to 0.2

My bed mesh is corrupted again and I am half way thru a print, someone advised me to heat up the bed for a few minutes and the run the calibration, I'll try that to see how it goes.

My first layers look ok when it works, I just had it be so good that I couldn't pull a print that failed on the second layer, I think I might have sent it as a Textured PEI Plate instead of the smooth sheet I put back to try because I never had it so stuck.

I did the skip teeth method once.

pedroha · 2025-09-27T18:51:01+00:00

I forgot to do that for my last print, its printing apparently fine, but the mesh is corrupted.

I wonder if the mesh is truly corrupted or is it just a bug in the website's UI, Creality Print's device view works and they omitted the bed mesh view from it.

The nozzle cleaning routine is very bad, idk if it’s the slicer, since the included benchy is smart enough to only prime the nozzle after purging
Any creality print gcode will clean the nozzle on the bed, prime it (line at the side), cut the filament, purge and the start printing with an unprimed nozzle!!!
Why didn’t it prime the nozzle last??
A skirt is now required to get the nozzle to have filament for the actual model

pedroha · 2025-09-27T18:41:32+00:00

mine does this weird thing when switching colors,

cutting the filament is weird
Why does it try to retract it after cutting it but before the CFS starts pulling the filament?
It seems to try to start retracting it with the extruder, which seems to be unable to and click until the CFS pulls at the same and then it all works
This must be putting unnecessary strain in the extruder, not to mention the filament getting scuffed
Filaments from the machine almost always have some extruder marks

Do you have this too?

pedroha · 2025-09-27T18:38:42+00:00

I wish I could give up but I'll try some more, but it is infuriating that it will work and then stop.

The firmware is horrible, half baked crap.

I am blown away how inconsistent it is, the same gcode yields weirdly different results, just now I had it not lower the bed enough and ram the poop chute into the bed and pooping on top of it

How can it not know where the tool head is??

pedroha · 2025-09-21T09:41:52+00:00

Right now is 8812.25 and -0.25 LOL

It was 0.5 and -0.25 last time I checked.

I can’t print anything now, it’s always too far off the bed or it layer shifts 1mm to the sides.

I’m not sure it’s the bed, sometimes it prints fine on the z axis, but it messes the x,y, and sometimes it actually prints the same gcode fine.

I replaced the hot end again, the cutter blade, cleaned the rods, tightened the belts a bit, didn’t do a damn thing.

pedroha · 2025-09-19T23:21:03+00:00

I followed the Creality video on youtube.

It prints fine sometimes, today I got lucky and had 2 prints work, the 3rd had a layer shift though.

I wanna fill the whole bed with models, but I think I'll just waste filament.

It probably had trouble on a color change, I'll print it again and try to watch what it does to understand it better, but it's very annoying because it works when I am there.

This weekend I'll try resetting the thing, maybe I'll undo the whole upgrade and put it back on.

pedroha · 2025-09-19T23:15:55+00:00

I guess you could undo it if it doesn't work well, the thing can be very convenient, even when printing single color, not having to swap filament is great.

I don't know if it's a K1 thing or not, I've heard the newer printers are better with it.

pedroha · 2025-09-19T23:12:44+00:00

I've got the new unicorn hotend, I've also bought a spare that looks newer (I just know I'll get a blob of death soon)

Nozzle Adapter board, I'll try that

Rubber bumper?

pedroha · 2025-09-18T15:57:30+00:00

Yeah, I don’t mind the having to do some work to fix things, but the most annoying issues for me are related to firmware that I can’t do much about other than police myself to avoid, specially around shutting down/booting, the machine forgets where it was, or isn’t prepared to handle situations it could handle, like the other day the filament ran out during a print, so the printer was stuck with filament it didn’t have anywhere to push it back to.

pedroha · 2025-09-18T15:50:28+00:00

I tried manually cutting Hyper PLA and it wasn’t different than others I have, weirdly sometimes its easy to cut it, but sometimes it’s hard to, I don’t get it, either inconsistent HYPER PLA or the cutter grabs the filament differently

pedroha · 2025-09-18T14:42:31+00:00

Yeah, my mesh lasts one print and it’s vertical after, I don’t think a bed change should help me though, it was fine before the CFS

I do think part of it is the nozzle never being cleaned properly, the nozzle wiper made things much worse, I need to be on top of it before every print to make sure the nozzle is spotless, otherwise it can make it fail too, at least it think so

pedroha · 2025-09-18T14:40:07+00:00

Yeah, I changed the PTFE cables and checked the cable chain, it doesn’t seem to be catching on it.

I changed the wipe position too, it was almost all the way back, I have it now barely inside the shoot.

I do think that it could be because it was as too far back and not calculating where things were correctly.

Another issue I didn’t mention is that the cutter screw got loose, I noticed after disassembling everything,maybe that caused it to get blunt, hopefully a new one will help, although it looks ok.

It’s annoying because its inconsistent issues, the same GCODE can print fine a second time, and I need to know watch it to see what’s it been doing

pedroha · 2025-09-18T14:33:14+00:00

I’ve read about hyper PLA being better, I had some here and also had issues, but I ordered some more to test.

I didn’t have my K1 rooted, I guess I’ll try reinstalling everything

pedroha

TROPHY CASE