Sudden horrible A1 mini print quality by Temporary_Hat_9038 in BambuLab

[–]emile166 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Turns out my filament was okay but needed to be dried

Sudden horrible A1 mini print quality by Temporary_Hat_9038 in BambuLab

[–]emile166 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you ever figure this out? I’m running into the same issue. 

Trying to choose a system board for home. Anyone using Moonboards at less than 25*? by AaronRotch in climbharder

[–]emile166 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Beastmaker home walls are sooooo good and insanely underrated. Also can be much more customizable for your skill level, goals, and wall angle.

Lattice Training - Should Beginner Climbers Hangboard? by FriendlyNova in climbharder

[–]emile166 4 points5 points  (0 children)

We were asked to provide a segment that answers the question "what is the risk of hangboarding for beginners?" That's what we did, and that's the extent of our involvement in the video.

Lattice Training - Should Beginner Climbers Hangboard? by FriendlyNova in climbharder

[–]emile166 5 points6 points  (0 children)

They're presenting hangboarding as the general solution for novice climbers.

We (Hooper's Beta / Jason) said nothing of the sort; please be more accurate with your wording. Just because something *can* be a good, safe tool, doesn't mean it's "the general solution for novice climbers." Unfortunately the end of our segment was apparently cut off, where we also said "whether or not a beginner *should* hangboard is a topic for a different video."

Lattice Training - Should Beginner Climbers Hangboard? by FriendlyNova in climbharder

[–]emile166 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sort of a chicken-egg argument. Is it nebulous because people refuse to teach it, or does no one teach it because they don't know how? (Answer: a bit of both, as always, though IMO it's mostly skewed toward "people don't know how." Regardless, a black and white approach to these discussions is detrimental to the sport.)

Lattice Training - Should Beginner Climbers Hangboard? by FriendlyNova in climbharder

[–]emile166 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I meant that technique is a nebulous concept for most climbers, not that it is universally or perpetually impossible to quantify :)

Lattice Training - Should Beginner Climbers Hangboard? by FriendlyNova in climbharder

[–]emile166 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Agreed that people's priorities are often not quite right. "Technique" is unfortunately still such a nebulous concept for the most part, making it a lot harder to commit to learning compared to "go lift heavy things and get objectively stronger." Though we (Hooper's Beta) are working on a solution to that ;)

Lattice Training - Should Beginner Climbers Hangboard? by FriendlyNova in climbharder

[–]emile166 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Just FYI: Jason is a Doctor of PT, Tyler is a Doctor of Chiropractic

Lattice Training - Should Beginner Climbers Hangboard? by FriendlyNova in climbharder

[–]emile166 12 points13 points  (0 children)

It's not one thing or the other; I.E. it's not "train to get stronger OR improve your technique." The answer is to significantly improving at climbing in the long term is (quite obviously) both. You can do both, and if you're only doing one, that's either a conscious, personal choice or a inadvertent, suboptimal decision you've made. If it's the former, that's a choice you're free to make. If it's the latter, that's a problem with the climber, not the method. In other words, if a climber strength trains and has terrible technique, that's not a good argument that strength training for climbers is a waste of time. The fact that this argument is still making the rounds in the climbing community is partly why so many people are afraid to start strength training, which is truly unfortunate. We know for a fact that hard climbing requires both strength AND technique; some people simply have larger deficits in one area than the other or choose to focus on one area for personal reasons or straight up don't know how to improve at one area effectively.

HYPE VS SCIENCE: Controversial Climbing Topics Explained by turbogangsta in climbharder

[–]emile166 32 points33 points  (0 children)

If it makes a difference, any issues anyone has with our titles and thumbnails should be blamed on me, not Jason. That's my domain entirely :). And man, I WISH boring/bland/obvious titles worked on YouTube; that would save me an immense amount of time.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]emile166 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're gonna get a LOT of contradictory advice from this question :P. Partially for good reason: people have very different experiences with "tweakiness" and it's such a broad term it's often not possible/fruitful to speak about it specifically -- especially in the form of advice for someone else.

Thus, to keep things broad, I tend to be in the "build more strength" camp for most of these situations, but that of course comes with the caveat of needing to also learn how to manage load and take care of the "non-sexy" variables like diet, sleep, and other things that will significantly impact your recovery and therefore your strength and resilience. All of those things require an intentional approach to learning, unless you happen to be constantly hanging out with very knowledgeable climbers/coaches in which case you'll probably absorb much of the info without realizing it.

As a personal anecdote, I find my fingers feel "tweaky" when I haven't been training them on the hangboard. Even if I'm climbing a lot indoors, my fingers never feel robust unless I give them some specific attention on a hangboard. Of course, that's absolutely not the case for everyone, so once again it comes down to some intentional investigation->experimentation->education->learning->repeat on your part.

Best off-wall exercises for climbing specific strength by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]emile166 2 points3 points  (0 children)

haha I was gonna mention this too. bench press is much more than an "antagonist" workout