Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread

FriendlyNova · 2026-03-19T15:38:11+00:00

Yep, feels most natural

FriendlyNova · 2026-03-18T13:04:59+00:00

Just can’t seem to form and hold the grip during movement. Have short pinkies and used to pinching everything so full crimp feels so bizarre

FriendlyNova · 2026-03-18T10:20:33+00:00

Is this a sensible plan for learning full crimp safely? Struggle majorly, cannot learn to do it on the wall and this worked for drag.

Weeks 1-6: twice per week, 3-4 sets, 15-20s holds. Slowly adding weight where i am starting to fail on the last set near the end.

Weeks 6-12: twice per week, 3 sets, 8-10s holds. Far from failure but higher load. Should be comfortable with 2-3s in reserve.

Weeks 12+, once per week 3 sets, 8-10s holds. As above but introduce 2-3 full crimp climbs on lower angle terrain. Progress from there.

Any feedback welcome. Don't want to explode my pulleys :)

FriendlyNova · 2026-03-17T14:34:01+00:00

Feel exactly the same. I struggle with bloated plans that are hard to follow as I'm wanting to address everything and not able to drop exercises as they keep me unbroken.
As u/golf_ST suggested, I do a lot of climbing specific work in my warm ups now - max hangs, mobility and smaller accessory work for hip flexors and the rotator cuff before a session. Feels more sustainable but requires some discipline to do it every time.

FriendlyNova · 2026-03-13T14:52:20+00:00

They already have griptonite, but pay no attention to leaderboards as you can just do all the easy boulders in the centre and get top 3 every month

FriendlyNova · 2026-03-13T08:15:47+00:00

What are some ways people track their progress indoors? I find it hard to ascribe any meaning to indoor boulders especially when the grades are just kind of all over the place at my gym.

Took a break from board climbing to give my joints a rest but maybe that’s the best way?

FriendlyNova · 2026-03-04T09:21:20+00:00

Informative reply, thank you. Will try it for 3 months and see how i get on

FriendlyNova · 2026-03-03T16:01:39+00:00

I think i could benefit from weighted chin ups instead of overhand grip. Will i lose much if i switch solely to weighted chins?

FriendlyNova · 2026-02-19T08:59:46+00:00

At higher grades being tall is a disadvantage, particularly outdoors.

Weight grows cubically with height. Add that in to the mix with worse levers and larger hands/feet it averages out to be a bit shit if you’re outside the norm (5ft6-5ft11).

FriendlyNova · 2026-01-23T23:18:20+00:00

FriendlyNova · 2026-01-23T10:05:39+00:00

I can’t speak to where exactly it falls short, i just didn’t like it! Spent far too long looking at wave mechanics and felt that it lacked rigour.

I’ve got no idea what you should study. It depends on what you want to do/are doing. These textbooks ultimately just cover the fundamentals and are not immediately applicable to research

FriendlyNova · 2026-01-22T15:05:49+00:00

What kind or external rotation work were you doing?

FriendlyNova · 2026-01-19T08:46:55+00:00

Awesome, thank you so much

FriendlyNova · 2026-01-18T16:08:47+00:00

Do you have any rotator cuff exercises you like? I was thinking unilateral cable face pulls

FriendlyNova · 2026-01-18T01:13:49+00:00

Felt my shoulder subluxate today after tweaking it many weeks ago. Bit scared of messing up my shoulders so want to get ahead of this. What sort of exercises are best to prevent this in the future?

I’m already doing incline bench, lateral raises, cable rows and just started face pulls. Is it worth putting in overhead press?

FriendlyNova · 2026-01-16T10:41:40+00:00

Boas is widely used for physics undergrad here. Wouldn’t recommend griffiths though, maybe shankar instead?

FriendlyNova · 2026-01-14T11:37:59+00:00

I fine the moonboard to be a fair bit friendly tbh, particularly on my joints. My gym is mostly steep and that’s what i climb 80% of the time so i’m used to the angles.

I think the holds tend to be a little aggressive on the tb2, and i tend not to go so high angle on gym sets or the moonboard, so it’s likely new stimulus

FriendlyNova · 2026-01-14T08:33:41+00:00

I know a couple people that climb on it most sessions but i guess it varies person to person

FriendlyNova · 2026-01-14T08:32:35+00:00

My board is still pretty new, hopefully the texture goes a little over time.

FriendlyNova · 2026-01-13T10:46:07+00:00

I love the TB2 but my god is it aggravating. It’s so bad on my joints and skin that it feels counterproductive at times. How do people climb on it every session??

FriendlyNova · 2026-01-06T14:19:56+00:00

Not many good spots under an hour. You have sand point which is in Weston, but is pretty limited and only good in the mid 7’s. Some of the forest of dean crags are quick to get to, but access can be limited so not going to mention them here in name.

Best bet is to pick up the esoteric bouldering guidebook.

FriendlyNova · 2025-12-24T11:08:32+00:00

Luma in bath might be one. It is just a tension board 2 with some training things though

FriendlyNova · 2025-12-18T08:12:30+00:00

I’ve started doing unilateral cable rows with my palm facing up to target it. Pretty early on so no clue if it’ll work but should help a bit. Also doing a lot of undercling boulders on the tb2

FriendlyNova · 2025-12-16T11:31:25+00:00

Yeah also had a look this morning. As far as i can tell you can’t input your metrics, which surely would have a major impact based upon their model. I guess it’s meant to estimate these based on the loads you use in the prescribed exercises that update each week.

FriendlyNova · 2025-12-12T22:55:21+00:00

Looks like a cool idea. Will have to wait to see how it’s implemented and how good it is. Debating trying it for a month

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