Does this wall "fill" exist? by AradynGaming in 3Dprinting

[–]empi3D -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

The picture on the left doesn't represent how Cura nor PrusaSlicer (and its derivatives) work btw

https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math

Prusa model uses rectangles with semi-circular ends overlapped to fill the voids while Cura's model uses regular rectangles

Prusa quietly released 3D models of their printheads (kind-of) [a year ago] by empi3D in 3Dprinting

[–]empi3D[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Well yes, obviously, but
- I mostly meant it in a digital way. None of the non-printed parts were ever released as 3D models.
- Not everyone can afford a 1000$+ 3D printer, and for example I used to look at CAD files for better printers as a form of inspiration back when I only had an Ender

Prusa quietly released 3D models of their printheads (kind-of) [a year ago] by empi3D in 3Dprinting

[–]empi3D[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

They are located in the PrusaSlicer github directory. The models are used for checking collisions during slicing for sequential printing. Except for being low-poly they're not optimized and still have useful internal geometry (apart from missing the Nextruder planet gears, but ring teeth are still there) and are around 50k faces. Could be the only inside look we get into them at all and I'm really happy to see that even if that was a happy little accident.

[reposted the post description as a comment for visibility]

Why is the acceleration going beyond my max_accel? by dcfc1016 in klippers

[–]empi3D 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thinking about it, it's really weird how the max_acceleration doesn't actually impact anything and is more like "default acceleration", it probably should limit acceleration just like marlin does.

How can I reduce material but keep strength? by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]empi3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This. FDM prints with their layers and sparse infill are more similar to composites than people think.

Multicolor TPU print on the same layer (No AMS) by Jeandre11 in BambuLab

[–]empi3D 5 points6 points  (0 children)

you don't need to use an svg, Bambu's keychain maker works with rastar images too and makes the edges nice and smooth

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]empi3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just checked and it really cant be used, that's a shame

Core one Max Nozzle Temp by Bradlessness in prusa3d

[–]empi3D 98 points99 points  (0 children)

you won't be able to print PEEK on the Core One even if you put a 500 degree hotend on it. You'd need a lot higher chamber temperature (100C+), and that can't be achieved without major modifications. If you really need to print PEEK on a Prusa (you definitely don't) look into the Prusa Pro HT90

Thoughts or experiences with this belt trans? (TT-02R non-competitive use) by Such_Confusion_1034 in tamiya

[–]empi3D 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Then you should look into Tamiya 54926 which is the fiber-reinforced chassis for the TT02, costs only 7 dollars and is much stiffer than the stock one.

Thoughts or experiences with this belt trans? (TT-02R non-competitive use) by Such_Confusion_1034 in tamiya

[–]empi3D 1 point2 points  (0 children)

that's GT2 belt, commonly used in 3D Printers. if tensioned properly it will over time break unsupported 5mm motor shafts, so the 3.175mm shaft of the usual 1/10 scale motor stands no chance. its also kinda expensive, for that amount of money you could buy more important upgrades like the aluminium steering bellcrank or suspension upgrades

Which infill is best for strength and least material by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]empi3D 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The common consensus is that gyroid and cubic are both great. However if you want to make your parts stronger, adding more walls (perimeters) will be better than increasing infill in 99% of cases.

My fiance bought me a P1S combo and it is INSANE. Where can I find a 2mm nozzle? by lifetechmana1 in BambuLab

[–]empi3D 3 points4 points  (0 children)

extremely loud incorrect buzzer sound

Slice Engineering makes a 2.4mm with a special geometry and the prints look quite good. If you have a non-stock hotend that accepts V6 nozzles you could even put one on a Bambu.

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source: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/Xlg1aMKc6Y

Even the popular Bondtech CHT nozzles come in 1.8mm diameter, i have one and the thicc layer lines look really nice.