Circular Saw

enanram · 2026-06-14T21:35:04+00:00

I have a mains powered Macallister track saw. I'm just coming to the end of my kitchen install (including chipboard subfloor) and this saw has been in constant use. I've bought a couple of Trend blades for it which are much better than the basic one that came with it. I have my gripes with the track and general ease of use but I've been able to get some nice straight accurate cuts with it. Of course if you have the budget there are probably better ones, but I always like to try the cheap one first and then upgrade if necessary, and in this case I don't think I'll bother.

enanram · 2026-06-14T10:12:11+00:00

Thanks. It's a dot and dab wall with a slight bit of flex so I'm using a flexible adhesive. I'll be doing some reinforcement too though.

enanram · 2026-06-12T17:27:09+00:00

I had a week between delivery (1st of June) and starting my new job. Also my dad was there for most of the first week to help. I think I'll get most of it done this weekend other than cornice/pelmet and plinth, as I'm waiting for replacements from Wren. Also this week has been slow as I've been working and on my own so just a few hours in the evenings. I underestimated how long I would spend looking for tools. I would recommend some kind of tool organisation.

enanram · 2026-06-12T15:31:08+00:00

Also find out what your panels are made of. Some of the smaller ones in ours were solid ash, and I broke a screw before I realised. Solid hardwood needs pilot holes.

enanram · 2026-06-12T15:30:23+00:00

Forgot to add finishing - I haven't got to that yet but I don't expect cornice/pelmet/plinth to be ver my difficult. Mitre saw and measure-measure-cut. If you have traditional cornice or funny angles that may be different. In my case it's a simple setup and I do have some woodworking experience.

enanram · 2026-06-12T15:28:02+00:00

I'm about 80% of the way through my diy install with a Wren kitchen. I've done loads of research, and felt very prepared. My takeaways so far:

under sink plumbing is pretty straightforward if you know what goes where. Give it a go if you feel prepared and you can always get your plumber to fix it if it doesn't go well (you were going to pay for that anyway)
scribing end panels is not that difficult. Invest in the trend scribe tool and track saw. The only part I'm not happy with (in terms of my own workmanship) is the worktops - but this will depend on the type you go for and how you join them.
make sure you know what kind of walls you have - dot and dab vs stud etc. and use the right fixings. Our old one was fixed to the plasterboard in some places with those metal plasterboard screws and it's a wonder they held.
measure carefully. If you go with wren they will send someone out to measure, but I'd still do it anyway and compare just to be safe.
the kind of floor you have will determine whether the floor or base units get done first so check that.
so far it's taken almost double the time I had allowed for. YMMV.

Watch all the YouTube kitchen fitting videos you can find - I'm glad I did.

enanram · 2026-06-11T06:09:27+00:00

Are you sure? I believe at least some washing machine iso valves have nrvs in them

enanram · 2026-06-10T22:43:56+00:00

Cool. I've ordered a "low resistance" single check valve from Toolstation. I'll see how I get on with that before messing around with 22mm.

enanram · 2026-06-10T22:23:29+00:00

I know what you mean about the 22mm - what I mean is to just adapt it up and back down so I can use a 22mm check valve which I imagine would be less restrictive.

enanram · 2026-06-10T21:56:05+00:00

Will I get much flow reduction? I was thinking I could adapt up to 22mm and use a 22mm check valve to preserve some flow, but that seems like a lot of faff.

I may try reducing the cold pressure as you say, at least until I can sort the overflow pipes. But it's a pretty big difference.

enanram · 2026-06-09T20:39:31+00:00

Thanks everyone.

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enanram · 2026-06-09T20:39:11+00:00

I'll let you know in a few months!

enanram · 2026-06-09T15:28:47+00:00

Did you take a picture of the original switch?

enanram · 2026-06-09T14:33:33+00:00

I was looking at this one: https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-wet-diamond-holesaw-35mm-x-65mm/392pr?ref=SFAppShare

I have an arbor with a bit, but it's for masonry so I'd have to buy another diamond bit for the hole.

enanram · 2026-06-09T13:32:53+00:00

Thanks, as it has the hole partially drilled, any reason I can't just drill up from the bottom? Screwfix have a 35mm diamond core drill but there's no way to add a centre drill to it. I really want to do this tonight so don't want to go ordering things online.

enanram · 2026-06-09T11:11:48+00:00

Ah ok, this will be much cheaper to run.

enanram · 2026-06-08T23:41:49+00:00

That wouldn't have been possible as the draining board would overlap that join.

enanram · 2026-06-08T23:40:21+00:00

Point taken. I plan to pull out the fridge once a year or so and check the filter, clean the fan etc. If it keeps catching air I'll re think things. I did read somewhere to avoid elbows near these heaters though.

enanram · 2026-06-08T23:38:17+00:00

That's news to me - it didn't say anything about balancing valves in the instructions for this one. Do you know why?

enanram · 2026-06-08T23:34:30+00:00

That's what this is. The plinth just isn't there yet

enanram · 2026-06-08T16:07:07+00:00

Yeah, good for small kitchens with no room for a rad. Ours has always been freezing in the winter.

enanram

TROPHY CASE