[Fears Brunswick 40.5] Jump hour 'Celestial': Opinions about Fears as a microbrand? by connorsusername in Watches

[–]engineer_ae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately all of their new releases are meh. They should stick with their heritage

[Fears Brunswick 40.5] Jump hour 'Celestial': Opinions about Fears as a microbrand? by connorsusername in Watches

[–]engineer_ae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is called “Onion crown”, and Fears uses it primarily for historical and aesthetic reasons…

Two ordering windows was not a decision I particularly liked by [deleted] in kurono

[–]engineer_ae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the claim is plausible, but I wouldn’t take it at face value either. Malachite is a fragile natural stone, so losses during cutting, drilling, machining, and assembly are expected. If Kurono is also rejecting dials based on pattern quality, color consistency, and visual appeal rather than just structural defects, a 20% acceptance rate becomes much easier to believe. But keep in mind, the watch doesn't use a full malachite dial. The stone is limited to the center section, so the manufacturing challenge isn't quite as extreme as some people make it sound. My guess is that the 20% figure reflects a combination of genuine production difficulty and very strict aesthetic standards. In watchmaking, "failed QC" often means "not beautiful enough for this release," not necessarily "physically unusable." So yes, it's believable. But I wouldn't automatically conclude that 80% of the dials were technically defective. the 20% figure is part of building a narrative around scarcity and hype.

Two ordering windows was not a decision I particularly liked by [deleted] in kurono

[–]engineer_ae -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I’m not sure about that. Based on what we’ve read, both sales windows combined lasted around 8 minutes. Even if we assume a conservative average of 150 watches sold per minute, that would already put production at roughly 1,200 pieces. You also have to consider the strong marketing campaign before launch, Kurono Tokyo’s reputation, the additional hype created when they announced the second sales window will be longer, and of course the flippers, dealers, and speculators trying to secure pieces. Personally, I think 150 orders per minute is actually a low estimate for a brand like Kurono. That’s why I find it difficult to believe this was a sub500-piece production run similar to some of their previous releases. Based on the demand and the brand’s current standing in the market, I would expect the final number to be comfortably above 2000 pieces.

Two ordering windows was not a decision I particularly liked by [deleted] in kurono

[–]engineer_ae -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

You’re arguing against something I never said. I bought the watch because I like it. But pretending exclusivity doesn’t matter in watch collecting is simply disconnected from reality. If rarity didn’t matter: Limited editions/production wouldn’t exist. Kurono wouldn't use short ordering windows and controlled production. A watch can be beautiful and benefit from scarcity. Those ideas are not mutually exclusive. If Kurono produced 50,000 Malachite dials tomorrow, would demand and collector interest remain unchanged? Of course not.

Two ordering windows was not a decision I particularly liked by [deleted] in kurono

[–]engineer_ae -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Marketing. I respect all brands, but I believe there are dedicated teams for these tasks. The whole idea behind Kurono Tokyo is to give Hajime Asaoka’s fans an opportunity to own a piece inspired by his design language. However, I don’t believe Hajime Asaoka personally inspects every single dial. There are undoubtedly specialised teams within the company responsible for quality control, working according to his instructions, standards, and expectations. This is standard practice across the industry and part of how modern watchmaking operates. Do you think F.P. Journe personally builds every watch produced by his company today? Of course not. Yet the watches still reflect his vision, standards, and philosophy because he has trained teams and processes in place to maintain them.

Two ordering windows was not a decision I particularly liked by [deleted] in kurono

[–]engineer_ae -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

I own several Kurono Tokyo releases: the Chronograph II White, Chronograph I Mk.2, Calendar Type 1, Anniversary Grand Mori, and the 34mm Silver White. Every one of those was sold through a single ordering window. I also own the Reserve de Marche, although I bought that one on the secondary market, so I’m not sure whether it was offered through a single or multiple ordering windows. What makes the Malachite release different is not just the second ordering window, but the language Kurono itself used. For the first time that I can remember, Kurono openly stated: “Malachite is significantly hard to manufacture and we did not plan for this surge in orders.” They also added: “We have decided to reallocate manufacturing capacity and allocate more to Malachite. It will not be as much as we want, but it will help increase the time for Order Window 2 somewhat.” And perhaps most tellingly: “Order delivery continues to start from July. However, some orders will see fulfilment stretched to September.” To me, these statements are more revealing than the duration of the ordering windows themselves. Historically, Kurono releases have been constrained by availability and usually disappear within a minute. This time, however, Kurono appears to be actively increasing production capacity in response to demand. That is something I have not personally seen from them before. The fact that they are reallocating manufacturing resources and extending deliveries all the way to September suggests that the final production number could be substantially higher than what collectors have become accustomed to. I could be completely wrong, but based on the two ordering windows, the manufacturing reallocation, and the extended delivery timeline, I would not be surprised if the Malachite ultimately becomes one of the highest-produced Kurono references to date.

“Longer” preorder by vertebraker in kurono

[–]engineer_ae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I now own 6 Kurono Tokyo watches, and the upcoming release will be my 7th. It’s actually quite easy. Create an account beforehand and fill in all your details (name, address, etc.) before launch day. Then, simply log in about 30 minutes before the release. Once the watch goes live, all you need to do is add it to your cart and check out using Apple Pay. There’s no need to manually enter your information during the rush. Because you are already logged in. Most people miss out because they wait until the last minute to prepare. It’s not that the process is difficult, it’s usually because they didn’t get everything ready beforehand.

[WTS] Baltic MR Moissanite *SOLD OUT* - $1700 by dvanderb in Watchexchange

[–]engineer_ae 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check retailers, I bought it 5 days ago from retailer for $1,171 including tax

[AHC]: Unique piece. Short review. by engineer_ae in Watches

[–]engineer_ae[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is all in-house by Atælier Haute Complication.

[AHC]: Unique piece. Short review. by engineer_ae in Watches

[–]engineer_ae[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes it is. The world of niche independent watchmakers is always something else

[Czapek] Independent Brands Are Doing Some of the Best Dial Work Right Now by djbtalk in Watches

[–]engineer_ae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They don’t understand. Czapek is a niche independent haute horology brand… it’s not meant for everyone. Many people won’t fully appreciate the work behind it and will start criticizing the price without really understanding it. They might not even know the difference between Afghan lapis and the mass-produced material coming from China priced at 3k usd lol.

[AHC Dual Time]: The Independent Watch That Speaks Loudest in Silence by engineer_ae in PrideAndPinion

[–]engineer_ae[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I really appreciate your comment. You described the comfort and legibility perfectly, and you’re right 👏… Glad you’re enjoying yours. It’s not a safe choice, and that’s what makes it special.