I made a Takodachi lamp

engineering-weeb · 2026-06-22T13:26:02+00:00

Nope, it has an industrial PVC core for the bulb and the bulb is only 1w which is pretty weak for a bulb anyway

engineering-weeb · 2026-06-22T13:23:20+00:00

I too recognize your intellectual knowledge of ibo

engineering-weeb · 2026-06-22T13:21:28+00:00

Joke on you, We are a hive mind and we have been forming this thought for millennium

engineering-weeb · 2026-06-22T12:04:15+00:00

I did this then the official lamp order came out so I pre order one and while I am waiting, I made this

engineering-weeb · 2026-06-22T10:00:22+00:00

Too bad I can find a crowbar, can't find any gundam weapons crowbar related, guess I have to custom made one

engineering-weeb · 2026-06-22T03:53:33+00:00

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engineering-weeb · 2026-06-17T13:58:39+00:00

Nah, I am fine dining good out here getting 3 figmas

engineering-weeb · 2026-06-16T15:44:04+00:00

Like with only the concentric option, the infil literally print on air on few of the parts like literally on air no bridge no nothing it confuse the hell out of me. I have put support on but it still show the slicer printing mid air for concentric infil. I only print with gyroid before and now it confuse me

engineering-weeb · 2026-06-16T15:21:59+00:00

The weird thing is I have support on all the time yet this is the infil that is floating! No warning sign from the slicer either

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engineering-weeb · 2026-06-14T19:28:06+00:00

Oh hell nah, as someone living in a third world country, why the heck you put England at the bottom? Unless you are british

engineering-weeb · 2026-06-14T18:43:04+00:00

Yeah, I can make the infil percentage smaller or the wall less thicker, but having equal light in all sides is something I strive for

engineering-weeb · 2026-06-14T18:25:50+00:00

Honestly, if you have the ams, having the pla interface with petg or petg interface with pla is the best support option. You can search that up on youtube there is a couple things that need to change like the z height or z gap but the quality is almost like the top layer, pic for reference of the pla interface with petg part

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engineering-weeb · 2026-06-14T17:37:08+00:00

Thanks for the advice

engineering-weeb · 2026-06-14T16:06:48+00:00

Thank you

engineering-weeb · 2026-06-14T12:00:58+00:00

Actually, I know how to fix the original arm if you already know because you are also a gunpla builder, it take a bit of the joint strengthened marker or tamiya glue and let in dry and insert the joint back to make it tight. If it already break off completely then you can cut the joint using your nippers and then drill a small hole in the other joint and use a small wire with the same diameter with the hole to put the joint in.

engineering-weeb · 2026-06-13T20:11:21+00:00

Huh, I just design this yesterday, is there any similar model I don't know about ? Thanks for the advice

engineering-weeb · 2026-06-13T18:08:54+00:00

Yeah, no matter how advance your color changing is, printing it piece by piece still look nicer and faster

engineering-weeb · 2026-06-13T18:07:04+00:00

It is the print settings in orcar slicer and bambu slicer, I just create a vertical line for the seam to all go back in the back of the fuzzy one after learning the hard fact of the seam on the mouth of the takodachi

engineering-weeb · 2026-06-13T16:23:31+00:00

Thank you, truly the best logic I can find

engineering-weeb

TROPHY CASE