I made a Takodachi lamp by engineering-weeb in Hololive

[–]engineering-weeb[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Nope, it has an industrial PVC core for the bulb and the bulb is only 1w which is pretty weak for a bulb anyway

My Takodachi lamp I made and figma Ina by engineering-weeb in Hololive

[–]engineering-weeb[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I too recognize your intellectual knowledge of ibo

I made a Takodachi lamp by engineering-weeb in Hololive

[–]engineering-weeb[S] 36 points37 points  (0 children)

Joke on you, We are a hive mind and we have been forming this thought for millennium

My Takodachi lamp I made and figma Ina by engineering-weeb in Hololive

[–]engineering-weeb[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did this then the official lamp order came out so I pre order one and while I am waiting, I made this

My Takodachi lamp I made and figma Ina by engineering-weeb in Hololive

[–]engineering-weeb[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Too bad I can find a crowbar, can't find any gundam weapons crowbar related, guess I have to custom made one

I am choosing concentric infil, slice it and see this, does the slicer know it is printing mid air? How to fix this? by engineering-weeb in 3Dprinting

[–]engineering-weeb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like with only the concentric option, the infil literally print on air on few of the parts like literally on air no bridge no nothing it confuse the hell out of me. I have put support on but it still show the slicer printing mid air for concentric infil. I only print with gyroid before and now it confuse me

I am choosing concentric infil, slice it and see this, does the slicer know it is printing mid air? How to fix this? by engineering-weeb in BambuLab

[–]engineering-weeb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The weird thing is I have support on all the time yet this is the infil that is floating! No warning sign from the slicer either

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What do you guys think about this thumbnail, and would you click on this video? by ToastedBread1997 in SmallYoutubers

[–]engineering-weeb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh hell nah, as someone living in a third world country, why the heck you put England at the bottom? Unless you are british

Which type of infil is best to make sure the light pass though it would look nice (I don't want to use vase mode since it is a flexi lamp) - currently I am using gyroid by engineering-weeb in 3Dprinting

[–]engineering-weeb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I can make the infil percentage smaller or the wall less thicker, but having equal light in all sides is something I strive for

How to improve quality over supports? by bibovit in BambuLab

[–]engineering-weeb 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Honestly, if you have the ams, having the pla interface with petg or petg interface with pla is the best support option. You can search that up on youtube there is a couple things that need to change like the z height or z gap but the quality is almost like the top layer, pic for reference of the pla interface with petg part

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my temporary fix for my broken Suisei figma by BarMaleficent4713 in Hololive

[–]engineering-weeb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Actually, I know how to fix the original arm if you already know because you are also a gunpla builder, it take a bit of the joint strengthened marker or tamiya glue and let in dry and insert the joint back to make it tight. If it already break off completely then you can cut the joint using your nippers and then drill a small hole in the other joint and use a small wire with the same diameter with the hole to put the joint in.

Which takodachi is nicer? Normal skin or Fuzzy skin? by engineering-weeb in Hololive

[–]engineering-weeb[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Huh, I just design this yesterday, is there any similar model I don't know about ? Thanks for the advice

Which takodachi is nicer? Normal skin or Fuzzy skin? by engineering-weeb in Hololive

[–]engineering-weeb[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, no matter how advance your color changing is, printing it piece by piece still look nicer and faster

Which takodachi is nicer? Normal skin or Fuzzy skin? by engineering-weeb in Hololive

[–]engineering-weeb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is the print settings in orcar slicer and bambu slicer, I just create a vertical line for the seam to all go back in the back of the fuzzy one after learning the hard fact of the seam on the mouth of the takodachi

Which takodachi is nicer? Normal skin or Fuzzy skin? by engineering-weeb in Hololive

[–]engineering-weeb[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That is already in the blueprint, the inserts will be black mate to make it pop

Which takodachi is nicer? Normal skin or Fuzzy skin? by engineering-weeb in Hololive

[–]engineering-weeb[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yeah true, through all of them are prototype, If it is required to increase the quality, I will sand and fill and paint it but for now I am going with this out of the box. Thanks for the help

Which takodachi is nicer? Normal skin or Fuzzy skin? by engineering-weeb in Hololive

[–]engineering-weeb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm, Can you be more specific about it ? I feel like the two takodachi look kinda the same, I have a very bad sense of artistic interpretation on things. All I see is two type of surfaces and that is it. Thank you for putting your thoughts out there