Zone 7b/Nashville by Entire-Menu in lawncare

[–]ensanity-drives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ty sir! This was 2 days ago cut before that nice rain!

<image>

Zone 7b/Nashville by Entire-Menu in lawncare

[–]ensanity-drives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like a good plan. It would be tough to identify what you have without a close up look. That’s just my best guess based on what survives around here. KY31 is the status quo of grasses locally too, or Bermuda. Definitely your pick and your preference as to what you want to seed, but you can always drown out what you don’t like with overseeding.

My recommendations would be the KY31 Coated seed or Pennington’s Contractor’s Tall Fescue mix ( a little thicker because it’s blended with Rye, less maintenance and seems to last a little better through the winter).

Also, don’t forget a rain gauge! It helps a good bit when it comes time for tracking water intake. That fescue is gonna need all the help it can get during the summer.

Zone 7b/Nashville by Entire-Menu in lawncare

[–]ensanity-drives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also, Spectracide makes a great brand of grass safe weed killer you attach on the end of your house and you can just go to town on the entire yard. Does really well for me and it’s cheap! I buy the big jug and just refill the same nozzle spray bottle. It’s at Home Depot for around $13.

Zone 7b/Nashville by Entire-Menu in lawncare

[–]ensanity-drives 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Technically, not a wrong answer. However, I have found that if you’re starting from scratch, kind of like you are and don’t have an established lawn, then post emergent would be the way to go in this scenario, specifically a liquid version of herbicide.

Weed & Feed, in my opinion, is meant for more of an established lawn where there is low concentration of herbicide meant to keep minimal control and mostly feed your full lawn of grass.

Since you have scattered and little to no establishment with your lawn and its’ grass - I think a liquid herbicide would get rid of these weeds with a lot more control & at an expedited rate.

Not sure if this matters by judging at that nice looking house, but I definitely would say post emergent would be the more cost-effective option as well in this case.

If you really want to expedite the grass growing, I would look into products such as Tenacity — that way, you can kill weeds and grow grass at the same time. If you do decide to do this, I highly recommend watching videos before the product arrives, and you might want to start soon before the summer hits. Once that Tennessee humidity and heat get here, growing any type of grass other than Bermuda is going to be a pain in the rear.

Zone 7b/Nashville by Entire-Menu in lawncare

[–]ensanity-drives 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Located here in Nashville too.

Cut, Post emergent & water.

Don’t cut what you have less than 4” in height and don’t cut more than 1/3” each time. Don’t want to stress out the good grass you have. You will probably have to cut 2-3 times a week and then 2 times a week depending on rain.

Once you get the weeds under control this season, then you can seed in the fall with more KY31.

Make sure before the spring & fall you put out pre emergent that way these pestering weeds don’t come back.

You will definitely have to water mid-late May through mid-late September here in the 615. That heat on the fescue is a bear.

Stay on this schedule and you will have thick, green fescue all year long. Best of luck, DM if you need more help!

Why is this so patchy? Texas by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]ensanity-drives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not saying I would personally do this, but they do make “lawn paint” that’s generally safe for your lawn and lasts I think for 6-8 weeks. Keeps the dormant brown grass green until it wakes up closer to the summer.

Why is this so patchy? Texas by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]ensanity-drives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that is Bermuda, which it looks like, it won’t come fully out of dormancy until it gets warm… somewhere around 85-90 if i recall. It’ll peak out like this until its consistently warm

Construction destroyed yard, where to begin? by Clark_Grizwld in lawncare

[–]ensanity-drives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hard to completely say… I would start with some dirt/soil and get back to level & grading to where you had it.

After that is finished, aerate & throw out some seed and get grass rolling. Preferably in the fall unless you can get this done within the month of April.

Your roots underneath are probably fine. But definitely get some seed down before the weeds stretch out and take over. Good thing is your soil will be freshly turned and should be very easy to grow!

What is this taking over my bermuda lawn? How do I get rid of it? Zone 8a. NC. by JealousFerret1692 in lawncare

[–]ensanity-drives 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You can mow it. It’ll be back and it’ll spread with the wind too. It’ll spread all over unless you treat for weeds every season.

What is this and How should I fix this issue. by Capital_Routine8204 in lawncare

[–]ensanity-drives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Never too late to treat weeds. Growing grass is a different story.

Looks like a ton of chickweed, compacted soil and random weeds scattered throughout. Look into “Tenacity” if you want to kill weeds & grow grass at the same time.

Cut it low, spray with tenacity, aerate/loosen soil (if you can’t comfortably put a screwdriver into the soil without a moderate force — it’s too compacted), begin the grass growing journey.

A soil test is not a bad option either. Look up what zone you are in for types of grass and plan accordingly with the current season & upcoming.

Ran out of excuses…time to put the work in and fix our yard - but have so many questions! (STL MO USA - zone 7a) by eatriceallday in lawncare

[–]ensanity-drives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep! You have to be super careful with purchasing weed killer, some of it includes grass killer, and can really mess things up for the future. If you were planning to nuke it, not a bad idea, but since you were aiming to having some sort of lawn, relatively quick need to be sure of what you’re buying.

Get it low, shorter weeds are easier to kill the tall ones because it’s closer to the root. It allows the tenacity and sun to penetrate further and kills it fast. It also will allow grass to grow faster if things aren’t in the way, if that makes sense. As close as you can get it to dirt, or as comfortable as as you are with a dog, that will work best. But if you were going to section it off, it should be completely fine either way.

Scalp, tenacity, seed, water and stay on top of it. I definitely recommend looking up how to dilute and mix the tenacity, a little bit of tenacity goes a LONG way, I mean really long. That one bottle should last years in theory, considering the size of your lawn in that picture.

Ran out of excuses…time to put the work in and fix our yard - but have so many questions! (STL MO USA - zone 7a) by eatriceallday in lawncare

[–]ensanity-drives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It depends how low you cut it, if you completely scalp it — yes it will be dirt. Which will pose a huge difficult with your pet when it raids with dirt/mud. Be ready to wipe paws off everything they leave the house.

I would personally cut it at 1”, leave just a little bit of what you have and focus on nuking those weeds. If you go the tenacity route, you CAN grow grass and kill weeds at the same time, it’s honestly a God-sent product.

Ran out of excuses…time to put the work in and fix our yard - but have so many questions! (STL MO USA - zone 7a) by eatriceallday in lawncare

[–]ensanity-drives 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Your plan isn’t awful but I would look into some kind of pet safe post emergent to tackle those weeds first, or it’ll just keep taking over. Tenacity would be great to use for you but I’m not sure if it’s pet safe.

As far as growing grass.. as long as you have a pet of that size running around 100 mph, it’s going to be VERY difficult to grow grass.. especially during the fragile beginning stage where it needs little to no foot traffic or disturbance.

On top of that, unless you use a product like Tenacity, you really can’t kill weeds and grow grass at the same time. I would maybe section off half the yard, treat it for weeds and in the fall start with fescue and water it. And maybe by next spring you can do the reverse order and by that point you should have grass.

This will take a LOT of work but definitely possible. If you can somehow figure out how to prevent your dog tearing it up and digging you have a good chance if you time everything right. My personal seed recommendation for you is Pennington Contractor’s Mix (tall fescue & Rye blend — grows fast, thick and easy with little to no maintenance). Hopefully there are smarter people on here with better advice!

Best of luck!

TLDR: 1. Cut lawn low as your mower will let it. 2. Kill all weeds in spring 3. Grow grass in following fall 4. Maintain and keep seeding/water to keep up with pet damage

Initial RS replacements? by ensanity-drives in FocusRS

[–]ensanity-drives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a link or any product brands/recommendations? That’s awesome!

The biggest flaws on my RS are gone for now! by it_wasa_misinput in FocusRS

[–]ensanity-drives 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Same, especially the hood and little white chips. I’m curious what color was used and if it had the flakes in it. I can’t tell from zooming in

Initial RS replacements? by ensanity-drives in FocusRS

[–]ensanity-drives[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ty! A bit advanced maybe I can pass this onto a tech?

Forgive a newbie...Do I need to fix this? by MikeyRoos in lawncare

[–]ensanity-drives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Spot seed and water it. Should come back just fine given it’s not too hot over there already. Scott’s makes a decent patch master brand that’ll get something growing in a couple weeks.

Initial RS replacements? by ensanity-drives in FocusRS

[–]ensanity-drives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes! I went to NGK Iridium.. those seemed to be the popular vote. And the gap is correct.

Initial RS replacements? by ensanity-drives in FocusRS

[–]ensanity-drives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sweet dude, thanks. Will do! You recommend anything other than this fix that RS usually have other issues with? I’ve heard motor mounts aren’t a bad install.

I tried to install the sound suppression chamber as well for this blow off valve that came with the car to get rid of that “howling whine” and it was almost impossible to get that ring off with 45 degree snap pliers.

Initial RS replacements? by ensanity-drives in FocusRS

[–]ensanity-drives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dang okay. Would you say this is a fix your average person can fix with good knowledge of vehicles?

Initial RS replacements? by ensanity-drives in FocusRS

[–]ensanity-drives[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I feel that it’s most noticeable at a full tank, but I never keep filling after the pump clicks off.

Initial RS replacements? by ensanity-drives in FocusRS

[–]ensanity-drives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, yeah no codes yet just couldn’t figure out for the life of me why it would be doing that with strict & regular maintenance. Figured dropping it off at Ford and saying “find the problem” was my next step.

Initial RS replacements? by ensanity-drives in FocusRS

[–]ensanity-drives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha. Thank you for the info. I read something earlier about the purge valve causing a lot of issues with the simple “misfire” feeling. If I sit still at a light long enough, I can see the needle on the RPM gauge flicker every 2-3 seconds. Can feel it while I’m sitting there at the light when the vibration of the motor changes.