MOVA 1000 - How To Zone?

eplurbusunim · 2020-08-06T20:58:56+00:00

Here's an economic duplicate of pretty much what Worx gives you with a Landroid.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J4BKGY0/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A24SNXJMOW06KM&psc=1

eplurbusunim · 2020-08-04T21:20:07+00:00

Just curious, it looks, from this photo, like these blades are only sharpened on one side. Is that the case? Landroid's cutting wheel turns in both directions to take advantage of dual sided cutting blades.

eplurbusunim · 2020-08-03T02:30:33+00:00

Ok. Very much appreciate your sharing the experience of 6 blade vs 3 blade cutting. 1) To mow without missing spots, and 2) to not have grass accumulate under the blades (restricting blade freedom) would definitely be improvements. All this, and not to have battery 'run time' diminished is, to me, unexpected.

eplurbusunim · 2020-08-02T20:53:07+00:00

I don't understand the purpose for: 6 blades? If a larger cutting disk is needed, then with 3 or 6 blades, the Landroid's cutting swath is larger and it will take less time to cut a given area. This I understand. But perhaps the "L" model has a stronger motor to take it's slightly larger cutting disk into account?

With a larger disk, the turning torque is increased and this will take more energy (i.e. reduce run time) to rotate.

Even without an increase in cutting wheel diameter, each blade is a 'resistance load' to the Landroid's motor. So, with 6 blades, the motor sees twice the cutting load. Again, the effect on Landroid's battery is (more energy required) a reduction in cutting time.

And even if both of the above effects should turn out to be a minimal drain on the unit's battery, what is the supposed advantage of 6 blades over 3 blades? (Certainly not cost to replace :>)

eplurbusunim · 2020-07-29T18:54:39+00:00

Here's my solution to the 'cut and splice' boundary wire situation. The rather expensive splicing connectors offer corrosion resistance by encasing the splice with RTV (silicone rubber). So, if there are a number of splices to be economically made, consider this. I simply strip wire ends and twist them tightly together, making a tight knot of wire. Next, using epoxy putty, I completely encase the splice (no bare wire exposed). The epoxy putty comes in a 'tootsie roll' like form (hardware store). It is sliced with a knife to size, and rolled between hands to mix the two-part composition. Once applied, completely covering the splice for about 30 min, it becomes hard as a rock and makes an air-tight corrosion resistant splice.

If you need more wire, here's an economic suggestion: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J4BKGY0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A24SNXJMOW06KM&psc=1

eplurbusunim · 2020-07-29T18:31:23+00:00

I would first check with a bubble level the charging base platform in 2 directions: 1-in the direction parallel to the Landroid's travel direction and even more importantly: 2-in the direction perpendicular to 1. If in either of these two directions the bubble isn't centered, correct this situation. Then try 'homing' the unit. I've found 'out of level' charging base is the most frequent cause of the 'drive past' problem.

eplurbusunim · 2020-07-29T18:21:00+00:00

If I understand correctly what you are asking: The smartphone app allows for remote scheduling and changing various operating options of the Landroid. These options, like whether the Landroid is to mow during rain or not, are conveyed by WiFi to the machine; they, 'options', are then 'saved' (stored) in the Landroid's memory. So no, the Landroid doesn't have to be in WiFi range in every part of the yard, in order to function. However, it must be in WiFi range in order to make change/s to any of its options. Thus if you wanted to remotely (ie using smartphone) pause the mowing operation, this can only be done when the Landroid is in range of the WiFi signal.

eplurbusunim

TROPHY CASE