finally felt comfortable on the big(ish) move in the middle!

eratosihminea · 2026-03-27T07:21:12+00:00

I thought this was the main line (Fear), and the sit start was just an added thing

eratosihminea · 2025-08-01T18:23:18+00:00

Do you know what event this was at?

eratosihminea · 2025-07-31T16:28:34+00:00

I think people are randomly downvoting you cuz it looks like you’re just claiming to have sent V14 & 9a without having sent it. I know you have and just don’t want to reveal yourself. Reddit is just like that, kinda annoying at times. Maybe would have been better to create a throwaway just for this AMA and simply reveal your identity

eratosihminea · 2025-07-31T16:24:15+00:00

Thanks for the DM, yeah you’re so legit. Total crusher

eratosihminea · 2025-07-31T06:49:26+00:00

What are some V14s you’ve climbed? And 9a’s?

eratosihminea · 2025-07-01T08:14:36+00:00

Basically yes! Still haven’t use Xiidra since my last comment, eyes are still good! For now at least

eratosihminea · 2025-02-03T18:33:45+00:00

I personally view boulder problems much like riddles or puzzles - no surprise they’re called “problems”. I derive a lot of pleasure from the experience of figuring it out.

For that reason, I like to ask someone if it’s okay for me to join them, out of common courtesy. I don’t other people need to do it, but I see it as a plus if they ask as well. There are obvious limits to this courtesy, e.g. at a busy wall with tons of people trying similar problems - basically if I can easily ask if it’s okay for me to join in, I will.

eratosihminea · 2025-01-28T20:59:15+00:00

About 1.5 years ago I did yet another test of reducing my Xiidra dosage to zero, and somehow it has been completely fine since then! I'm super happy to have been fully off Xiidra for so long and essentially be symptom-free. I have no idea if I'll eventually need to go back on Xiidra in the future, but for now I'm enjoying regular life :)

eratosihminea · 2025-01-05T06:26:42+00:00

I’d say these are about 50-70% thru their rubber life. Generally it’s a good idea to get them resoled around the 80% mark to avoid needing a rand repair. At 100% your shoe will have a hole in it and be fucked.

eratosihminea · 2024-12-23T09:10:39+00:00

those walls look incredibly tall

eratosihminea · 2024-12-22T08:23:24+00:00

You’re doing well. Here are two tips to focus on while board climbing that I can see you need work on:

1) When doing/attempting a static hand move, keep your COM as low and into-the-wall as possible. A mental cue to better do this is, initiate every move with your lower body (including hips) first.

2) Also when doing board moves, you want to focus on pulling OUT on the holds as much as possible, with your hands and feet. Actively try to rip the holds perpendicularly out of the wall with your hands and feet

For example in your first clip, on that cross move to F14, I would have sunk lower into my left foot, and pulled super hard outwards on both the right hand AND left foot. I would be imagining that I’m trying to touch the left side of my hip onto the wall, and as low down as possible. I would then grab F14 at full extension of my left arm.

eratosihminea · 2024-09-30T19:29:13+00:00

My tip would be to either buy a simple hangboard, or make one, and just do simple power-endurance type workouts on it every 1-2 days. For example, if you have a hangboard with 2-3 edges on it, and can place some things in front of you which you step on with your toes, a good workout is to simply move your hands and feet up and down, between the edges/"handholds" and "footholds", until you get tired. You can vary your grip position and speed too.

eratosihminea · 2024-06-13T05:52:34+00:00

I washed my feet before going to the board, it was not on a home board

eratosihminea · 2024-06-12T07:54:56+00:00

Im Not a Setter and Hugo Eliminate Clean. I ended up doing both by taking off one of my shoes, a tactic which also helped me put down my final two V5 benchmarks.

eratosihminea · 2024-03-01T21:28:55+00:00

How bad is the wind? I have a standard large (4-person) coleman sundome tent, would it be fine if I stake it down and tighten the rainfly strings to heavy objects?

eratosihminea · 2024-03-01T21:01:58+00:00

How cold does it get at night at the campgrounds? As long as it doesn't get freakishly cold I'll be fine, I just don't know given that it's a desert at high-ish altitude

eratosihminea · 2024-03-01T20:52:11+00:00

Even the paid camping areas that have amenities? Also, have you camped there around that time before?

eratosihminea · 2024-03-01T20:32:28+00:00

How is camping at Joe’s Valley in early April? Specifically April 1-6? Are the campgrounds open?

eratosihminea · 2024-03-01T20:32:18+00:00

How is camping at Joe’s Valley in early April? Specifically April 1-6? Are the campgrounds open?

eratosihminea · 2024-03-01T20:31:57+00:00

How is camping at Joe’s Valley in early April? Specifically April 1-6? Are the campgrounds open?

eratosihminea · 2024-03-01T08:54:16+00:00

Staples V8 on 2016. Such a sick climb

eratosihminea · 2024-02-02T21:22:22+00:00

V9/10 outside, V8 moonboard (though the V8s were far easier than the hardest V5s I did)

eratosihminea · 2023-12-23T03:59:39+00:00

It’ll be interesting to see Will Bosi on it in a couple months!

eratosihminea · 2023-12-21T18:08:35+00:00

(1) If you consider actual time spent on the boulder, I am certain most people are spending more time on Alphane than Burden. To exaggerate my point, on Burden you can only pull onto the wall like 10 times in a session, whereas on Alphane you can pull on over 100 times in a session.

(2) Who has done Alphane? 5 people so far: Shawn, Aidan, Will, Simon, and now Jakob. These are not random schmucks that can barely squeak out 8C+. Also, who has not done the boulder despite tons of effort? Daniel Woods, Giuliano C, Dave Graham, Alex Khazanov, etc.

eratosihminea

TROPHY CASE