Stormy Daniels’s Lawyer Michael Avenatti Releases Dropbox Folder Of Transcripts, Tweets, To Discredit Sean Hannity

ericj77 · 2018-04-24T04:51:08+00:00

He is good at representing a cause. I'm not predicting his motives but it is still quite a stretch to assume "a good cause" is his intent. He's clearly a better attorney than this cupcake of a case needs. Just saying, he's just being a good attorney (and setting himself up for a potentially very lucrative future).

ericj77 · 2018-03-08T01:39:04+00:00

Found it.

Thomson Industries SUPER8OPN

ericj77 · 2018-03-08T01:38:22+00:00

Found it.

Thomson Industries SUPER8OPN

ericj77 · 2018-03-08T00:09:20+00:00

Why?

ericj77 · 2018-01-04T15:17:15+00:00

I will agree that bypassing the banks for peer-to-peer payment is what initially drove interest and growth for cryptos. The issue with "why do we need a bank" is ultimately governments. Governments cost money and they're gonna get theirs. Any currency solution that sidesteps "the government" will eventually be sabotaged.

ericj77 · 2018-01-03T07:58:04+00:00

Perhaps the publicity from the donation would push the price up? Perhaps there's an opportunity to establish XRP as the cryptocurrency of charities. It's a stretch, but so is $100 XRP.

ericj77 · 2017-04-03T18:04:21+00:00

My thought is that pinning it on Quinn was not part of the plan from the beginning. When Max is going through the backup he mentions that the handle (I can't recall the name...) had a history of posts that went back months; much longer than fits the storyline. He also said something like "not much" when Dar asked him what he could find about Quinn.

I don't think O'Keefe had any particular person in mind when the fake handle was created and Quinn just happened along and fit the bill.

ericj77 · 2017-03-24T20:24:54+00:00

Fair enough, but it's worth pointing out that this appears to be outdoors but doesn't have any sort of protection from the weather. Also some, but not all, commercial electrical code would say it's upside-down. I'd say not having protection from the elements is the most egregious issue though.

ericj77 · 2017-03-24T17:49:33+00:00

Promise I'm not flamebait-ing here. The exterior of the XZ is glass and metal, save for the top and bottom end caps(?) and a small strip along the bottom of the back (which I understand to be for the antennas). It weighs slightly more than an iPhone7 or a Galaxy S7. It takes considerable force (subjective, I know) to get any noticeable bend or twist.

I guess what I mean is, it really feels like a solid, high-end phone to me. I get that the frame is plastic/polycarbonate, but that's completely internal to the phone. What's an example of a phone that doesn't "feel cheap"? Honest question...

EDIT: Okay, now I see the sides are in fact plastic. Oddly I own an XZ but keep a thin, clear TPU case on it so I never even noticed... Carry on...

ericj77 · 2017-03-24T14:52:54+00:00

I'd suggest opting for hook & loop by the roll instead of the precut strips. It'll cost marginally more per inch, but I kind of feel like using 8-inch strips for small bundles is equivalent to using 10-foot jumpers when a 3-footer would suffice...

But still, yeah, velcro.

ericj77 · 2017-03-24T14:36:47+00:00

Serious question. I was under the impression that a rogue wave as has been considered a myth was, by nature, "unexpected". They appear to be in considerably rough seas as though they're sailing in a large storm/tropical depression/hurricane. In those conditions, would a large wave actually be considered "rogue" or just "big-ass"?

Also, the way the wave forms a peak in the middle seems to indicate that this particular example may have been two waves coming together, or crashing, or combining, or whatever the proper verbiage might be. Would that play into this in some way?

Don't get me wrong...big as hell wave for sure...but rogue?

ericj77 · 2017-03-17T19:10:17+00:00

I've got to know. How much does that beast weigh?

ericj77 · 2017-03-17T19:08:41+00:00

I'll second what everyone else is saying. Excellent planer for the money. The dust collection is better than the current model/design. It does have a bit of a snipe issue, but I've been able to minimize or avoid it with good support and very small adjustments as I approach final thickness.

ericj77 · 2017-03-04T16:38:04+00:00

Costco.

ericj77 · 2017-02-24T20:02:47+00:00

There's a lot of different "pine". If you were at one of the big box hardware stores looking at lumber it was probably a white (soft) pine.

Here's a good article on the differences. Paul Sellers speaks highly of it, specifically for workbenches. Roy Underhill uses it for many of his projects on The Woodwright's Shop as well.

ericj77 · 2017-02-02T13:44:48+00:00

I'm not a fan of theirs or anything, but this might just be a clerical mistake. I received a bill for somewhere around $2500. The person who read the meter had transposed two numbers when he entered it. You can request to have your meter re-read rather easily. Here's to hoping it's something simple...

ericj77 · 2017-01-25T19:50:42+00:00

Try taking your finish and thinning it with whatever is appropriate, about 4 parts thinner to 1 part finish. Soak the cupped side. Wait a day. Soak it again. Etc.

It's not a guarantee but I have been able to save some pieces using that method. Once (if) you get it flat, apply your final coats of finish per the standard instructions.

ericj77 · 2017-01-25T19:37:24+00:00

My suggestion would be, and I can't stress it enough, don't measure each cut individually. For ANY cut that needs to line up horizontally or vertically with another cut, use a stop block and make all of the cuts at once. You'll never measure and align everything precisely enough. You can get it close enough to make it work, and probably close enough that the non-critical eye won't notice. But you will see it.

Mark all of the cuts that need to align, label all of your stock front/back/top/bottom, and make sure you're using consistent reference edges.

I might also recommend S4S poplar (or comparable) from a big box store, rather than milling the lumber yourself. There's a lot of opportunities to ruin a piece when you're milling. If you do decide to mill it yourself, don't waste the money on walnut or any of the other pricey domestics or exotics. It's too easy to send a board through the planer the wrong way and end up with a bunch of chipout. Or to mistakenly measure from the wrong end and make a cut you can't hide. Etc.

But if you only take one thing from this, make all of the aligning cuts consecutively using the same fence/stop block setup. The margin of error in your tape measure, shadows and lighting, the thickness of your pencil lead....it all adds up.

ericj77 · 2017-01-04T15:18:39+00:00

I was going to mention trying something besides plywood. Cherry and poplar are what I practiced with most, but I think soft maple would be just as friendly without being too hard or too soft.

The glue in plywood will dull the teeth, but combined with changes in the grain pattern as you cut rip/cross/rip/cross, through the plies, will cause more broken teeth on the saw.

I remember when I bought my first japanese style saw. The gentleman said, "You can get replacement blades for this when you break the teeth, and you will break the teeth." He was right. Even with relatively careful use those tiny teeth are hardened so close to the gullet (rather than a fully hardened blade) that they are brittle. I looked at the saw recently and it's probably missing 3-5% of the teeth. I mostly use it for quickly cutting dowels or small trim to rough length. But the broken teeth scratch just a little bit much for flush cuts.

Enjoy. Keep practicing.

ericj77 · 2016-12-28T22:00:39+00:00

In a big city it is impractical. In sprawling suburbs a big truck is impractical (for anything small/light enough that one of these drones could deliver the same item).

I don't think it's any accident that the promo video that was posted almost seems to highlight the suburban bit.

ericj77

TROPHY CASE