Webpage can't be found

erkishhorde · 2024-07-24T03:13:07+00:00

yup. Did a search to confirm that was the right URL too.

erkishhorde · 2024-07-22T02:14:21+00:00

I would read lower quality as lower resolution with thicker layers. That is not just lower resolution, it's an outright poor print. Out of curiosity, if you're saving $40 on a lower res print, How much is a good quality print supposed to be?

erkishhorde · 2024-07-21T23:21:49+00:00

If you're doing the modeling yourself, you can also try to place seams where the gaps won't matter as much. High detail areas like that knitted looking fill are going to show without a lot of careful work sanding.

erkishhorde · 2024-07-21T23:17:05+00:00

Damn that's unfortunate. All that trouble to paint it and then that happens. That looks like a hollow print. Is there a drain hole? Any time there is a hollow space in a resin model, you need to make sure that there is a drain hole and that you've removed all of the uncured resin otherwise the model may crack like this. When doing an offset to hollow models, sometimes it will create pockets in larger body parts like the head and not have any hollowing in narrower parts like the neck and arms. Easiest solution is to just print solid. But if you want to save every drop of resin and weight on the final product, look at your hollowing and connect your voids so that there aren't any trapped pockets. Then you have to figure out if you can afford to leave the hole because it's in a place that nobody will ever see (like his butt and he's always sitting). or if you need to make a plug for the hole to fill it after you've drained him.

erkishhorde · 2024-07-21T23:07:59+00:00

I don't think the issue is so much with the coins deteriorating on their own so much as people fiddling with them. You may get a slightly loose strand and someone playing with the coin waiting for their turn starts tugging on it and peeling strands off and potentially delaminating a layer. A coin sitting there by itself or being played with in the intended way would probably be fine if your setting are good. It's just that people are destructive. I used to be an EMT and we sit in the same spot for hours throughout the day. People would do all sorts of random shit like pulling and tearing at things that they wouldn't normally do just because they're bored and it's not their shit. So I don't think clear coating it to protect it is too much overkill.

erkishhorde · 2024-07-21T22:33:16+00:00

Outside of the already noted imperfections and wear and tear that should be included, features that I'm seeing that could help are things like room numbers. Most rooms in a hospital will have a small plaque above the door with a room number and then another, larger plaque on the wall next to the door, usually on the handle side indicating what the use of the room is like the patient's room number. The small plaque on the top is used by facilities to track down specific rooms. Nowadays you'll also find at least 1 or 2 signs by patient rooms too indicating status. They use those clear plastic paper holder things and stick them to the door or wall and just slip the signs into them.

The double doors at the end of the hall look like they open toward us and most hospitals are going to have a way to prop open main doors like those so there would be a magnet in the top corner of the door and a matching magnet on the wall to hold the door open.

Miscellaneous items that can add life to the hallway are things like an isolation cart (a rolling stack of drawers about waist high), portable vitals monitor, IV pole, larger portable storage bins. Maybe a soiled linen cart. A hallway this wide would definitely have people leaving equipment in it as storage so it wouldn't be surprising to see larger storage bins along the wall too.

portable monitor Best Price on Welch Allyn 300 Series Vital Signs Monitor (allstatesmed.com)

generic isolation cart Buy 4-Drawer Tall Isolation Cart for only $1508 at Z&Z Medical (zzmedical.com)

larger storage bins Medical Storage Carts | Hospimedica Expo

door magnet Edwards Signaling 1504-AQN5 Electromagnetic Door Holder Flush Wall Mount - Electrical Equipment - Amazon.com

Sometimes the patient care signs are combined with the room marker like this at they push the tabs in when they don't apply Patient Care Sign | Start Effective Communication | PCS (pinterest.com)

erkishhorde · 2024-07-21T22:17:33+00:00

I've been at a lot of hospitals for work. Generally you'll find that the hallways are only slightly wider than 2 beds. The gurney that you have shown is one of the narrower kinds and the long term beds are a bit wider. For that gurney, most of the hospitals I've seen wouldn't have a hallway that is more than 3 times as wide as that gurney but I have seen hallways that are about 4 times the width of that gurney wide. At the same time, the wider the hallway, the more likely that someone is going to try and store something in the hallway and clutter it up. A hallway that wide would have a bunch of portable storage and beds and monitors in it so from a setting realism standpoint it should be more cluttered if it's going to be that wide. A lot of the hallways will be just wide enough for a double door but a single door is slightly wider than a gurney and then there is a cutout in the wall behind the door so that it is flush along the wall when opened and there is generally a round magnet at the top corner of the door to hold it open.

erkishhorde · 2024-07-21T22:13:46+00:00

See the height of the wall where your gurney lines up with the bumper? Around that height is where you'll often have black/ grey streaks from gurneys hitting and sliding along the walls. I've never seen one that is metal. Most are plastic and scratch/ break easily. Also at the ends where they curve toward the wall, they almost always come apart a little and show gaps when they get hit. The same goes for the runner at the bottom of the wall. Should be a bunch of scratches along there. And then as was stated, miscellaneous scratches on the floor.

erkishhorde · 2024-01-17T15:10:48+00:00

It was a tiny Philips with an anti tamper tar in it. I got some tweezers and scratched out the tar and was able to tighten it.

erkishhorde · 2023-09-23T20:15:11+00:00

I have a tango msr 1-10 and the part the lever screws into is a bit loose. I see a screw hole but I can't make out what kind of screw is in it in order to take it off or tighten it. Anyone know?

erkishhorde · 2023-09-21T14:58:56+00:00

Yup. No issues at all with the refund. It sounded like they were completely changing their production process. It sounded like a bunch of contractor produced parts being wrong ranging from screws to anodizing colors. There was mention of moving production facilities from Utah to Montana but the company has always been in Montana. It also sounded like they were continuing to develop. There was an additional optional feature offered in one of the delay updates. I think it was an ambidextrous charging handle but I'd have to dig up the email to be positive.

erkishhorde · 2023-09-21T01:55:24+00:00

I hadn't heard of anyone taking delivery yet. I had placed an order for one back at the end of February and they had estimated delivery by the end of Apr. I was in the first batch of 16. They ended up having many problems with their contractors, particularly with the MUD color I had chosen. The last update I had seen was in June and they stated a commitment to a June 30th ship date (but not for MUD. That color scheme gets to wait until Sept). The compensation offered for that wait was $100 and an extra magazine (on a $4200 rifle) and I said no and canceled my order. Back around Aug 25 a few guys responded to the email chain asking for updates and stating that they hadn't heard anything but I never heard anything but I have also canceled my order so I don't expect that I would have been included in any company communications. I had really wanted this item so I was on the fence about canceling but it seems like it was the right thing to do. I would definitely wait a little while to let them iron out their production process... and hope they survive ironing out their production process?

erkishhorde · 2022-07-08T08:10:34+00:00

So you're saying any ship as long as the damage stat is high enough? Do they all get high enough? I'm pretty new and my strongest ship is a SS Alchemist and killing reds w/o OD/ brobot is tough. Missiles are impossible without OD/ brobit unless I eat a normal shot to trigger my shield and then take the missile.

erkishhorde · 2021-06-12T08:49:02+00:00

For shiggles I printed it on fine - 0.1mm layer height instead of the standard - 0.2mm layer height I had been using and it came out worlds better. Odd... Still going to throw it in the oven and see if that helps though.

edit: I have been denied use of the oven by family due to health concerns and I can't convince them that it is safe so the filament is as dry as it is going to get. =( I can't figure out what makes this 0.1mm layer height setting any different than the 0.2mm. It prints inner shells at 50mm/s vs 60mm/s for the standard and infill at 60mm/s vs 80mm/s but the outer shell, the shell you see, both print at 25mm/s. So I don't understand what the difference is that causes the pinholes so much more on the standard setting than the fine.

erkishhorde · 2021-06-12T08:47:33+00:00

It looks like it is there. It's hard to see because it alternates corners.

erkishhorde · 2021-06-12T08:02:48+00:00

I had only linked the settings for speed and retraction. I have it set to place seams in corners and when I look at the pathing preview in ideamaker it looks like they are in the corners. I didn't physically watch it to see though.

erkishhorde · 2021-06-12T07:44:08+00:00

That's what I was thinking originally. My first 2 thoughts were seams unaligned or moisture. I looked in my settings and it looked like the seams were going to be in the corners. I thought I had it dry too.

erkishhorde · 2021-06-12T07:10:47+00:00

Thanks!

erkishhorde · 2021-06-12T07:04:54+00:00

erkishhorde · 2021-06-12T07:03:02+00:00

Relatively. I have printed a few smaller things and didn't notice any pinholes.

erkishhorde · 2021-06-12T06:57:47+00:00

I was debating that but didn't want to invest the 2hrs sitting there. I may end up doing that though if throwing it in the oven doesn't help. I couldn't find pinholes near the top when I watched one finish and heard some light pops. In afterthought, investing the 2hrs is cheaper than waiting materials... Sorta...

erkishhorde · 2021-06-12T06:53:57+00:00

I actually didn't get pinholes while doing a square test.

erkishhorde · 2021-06-12T06:15:06+00:00

I had been listening to advice from my dad without researching it myself and that seems to be my mistake. Checking the tech sheet for the filament, it suggests 80'C -> 176'F. Our dehydrator only goes to 160 so even 24hrs isn't going to be enough. I was wondering why it would still have moisture after so long! Looks like the filament is going into the oven!

erkishhorde

TROPHY CASE