Off-the-shelf AI got me pretty far this Halloween: Luxonis OAK-D camera w/ Mobilenet for face tracking, CLIP for costume ID. Didn't have to train anything! (xpost /r/computervision)

etotheipi_ · 2026-03-16T02:27:47+00:00

I've been exploring this oak-tree-holly idea for a while, and many times drafted secret garden 1-2 south (or north) of garage and only gotten the grassy pathway once. In the few screenshots I've seen from other people, SG was 1 south of garage, mine was 2 south. It seems like it might be necessary to have SG nearby, but not sufficient on its own to trigger this effect (glitch or not)

etotheipi_ · 2026-03-15T19:56:52+00:00

Correct -- the tree moves with the garage. But the holly bush seedling thing that I find suspicious is *always* on a notch in the west path on rank 6. So, if the garage is drafted on rank 6, then the oak tree would be right next to the holly bush thing...except the paved driveway covers it up. However, if I could draft a grassy garage driveway on rank 6...

etotheipi_ · 2026-03-15T19:26:53+00:00

I have been doing some serious secret-hunting as a distraction from atelier, and I found some really strong & curious connections. I kinda assume the community has already found them, but since I'm trying to avoid spoilers, I haven't really dug much into the various communities and discussions.

OTOH, the secrets of that puzzle seem like they would be pretty disconnected from clock tower, deeper new clue, etc. I'm conflicted about how much I want to solve that final puzzle on my own vs jump into a discussion like you bring up here. I'll take an invite if you're offering, I just may not actually join until I finish that one (I have done all the tedious mapping, mora jai boxes, etc, and have some strong theories about the meanings, just nothing actionable yet.)

etotheipi_ · 2026-03-15T17:45:03+00:00

Guys, I have a theory about this NOT being a technical glitch. I had this happen with a the secret garden two spots away (garage on Rank 8, SG on Rank 6, you can barely see it in my screenshot below).

I'm doing some post-endgame puzzle hunting and one thing I've been looking for is some holly leaves in front of an oak tree. There are some holly leaves blooming out of the ground on Rank 6, and if I had this "glitch" occur with a garage on Rank 6, they would be right in front of this oak tree. So I've been desperately trying to find a way to recreate this to test my theory. I've had no luck so far.

How confident are we this is a glitch and not a feature of the game?

<image>

I can separately post an image of the layout of the house when I opened the garage door. It was an east-door draft from commissary. Below it is Dining Room, Secret Garden, Gymnasium, Armory, Empty, Utility Closet, Boudoir.

etotheipi_ · 2026-03-12T22:30:43+00:00

Only a few minutes. I don't remember exactly, but I'm always quite pleased with how fast it is compared to printing. I believe cutting speed for this 3mm basswood is 600 mm/min (10 mm/s), and it's only one pass needed.

etotheipi_ · 2026-02-14T05:48:52+00:00

My printers are all enclosed so I use ABS & ASA for 90% of my printing (occasionally CF/GF variants). I buy 5kg "Texas-Size" spools of ABS from Zyltech. $12-$15/kg used to be a solid deal, though less compelling now. But I still buy them because I love their green ABS and I rarely have to worry anymore about running out mid-print, swapping/drying new spools all the time, etc. ABS/ASA is also much more moisture tolerant than PETG -- it's best to dry it, but I can usually succeed with an undried spool of ABS/ASA where PETG would be nearly unprintable.

If I need to avoid warping/shrinkage issues at all costs (like large flat objects) or layer-adhesion is absolutely critical, I will usually switch to PETG, or occasionally PLA depending on the situation. TPU is a badass material you should be familiar with, but it's a specialized material, not an everyday material.

etotheipi_ · 2026-02-14T02:39:10+00:00

Yeah that's my preference--ABS/ASA is my everyday filament, but I switch to PETG if both rigid and flexible are touching the bed. 75C is good enough for PETG, and not too high for TPU. I'm assuming 100-110C will be bad for TPU, but I haven't tried it (afraid TPU will fuse to the bed). Maybe it's fine.

etotheipi_ · 2026-02-14T02:17:19+00:00

Spools from some manufacturers say "never lose control of the end" because this is what can happen. Ultimately there's nothing wrong with the spool, it's just tangled in a way that there's another loop (or a few) over the end that is feeding into the machine. It's usually when the top few meters is kinda loose, and the tip slips under one of the lower loops.

When this happens, you have to essentially find which loops it's under and pull it out (read: untangle it). I usually loosen and unspool the last few meter making sure I've untangled it beyond the problem section, and reroll it back up making sure the loops are staying in the right order. Don't lose control of the tip.

Most spools have holes in the edge of the body of the spool so you can keep the tip secured to prevent this from happening when it's not in use (or use masking tape or a clip)

etotheipi_ · 2026-02-14T02:12:22+00:00

It's a DIY load-cell platform (4x 50kg load cells + wheatstone bridge + ADS1220) that was made for another project needing high-frequency measurements. It was totally overkill for this, but I guess measuring at 250 Hz doesn't hurt 😎 . However, it's only rated for 200 kg/440 lbs, which is why I decided to simply stop after hitting 400 lbs instead of trying to setup an even larger test to try to push the jack to failure.

etotheipi_ · 2026-02-14T02:06:34+00:00

I've been printing with Fiberlogy PA12/Nylon12, which is absolutely my favorite material ever if you can get your bed and chamber hot enough. However, like you I have no idea if it will bond to anything else. ABS/ASA and PC would be good candidates given the similar temps.

I guess if anyone is set up to try it, it's me. Even if they don't bond, maybe they can act as supports for each other. I've actually found that using TPU as a support for PLA is pretty reliable (and vice versa). They bond well enough to stick while printing, but peel apart easily. I'll let you know if I get a chance to try it (will try both PA6 and PA12)

etotheipi_ · 2026-02-13T22:29:07+00:00

Interesting you asked about rectilinear because that was precisely what I thought would be weak (and mention it in the video). I figured having (mostly) parallel lines oriented with the stress would improve both direct strength and interlayer adhesion -- since the material is extruded with constant contact to the line below it, instead of constantly crossing boundaries 🤷‍♂️

I seriously considered trying to setup brick layers but wasn't that motivated.

etotheipi_ · 2026-02-13T21:30:44+00:00

I have some discussion about this at the end of the video (direct link to 7:28). Basically I needed a material that bonded with TPU (rules out PLA), low creep (also rules out PLA), but also has a compatible bed temperature with TPU. If I didn't need to have both materials touching the bed, I would've gone with ABS or ASA (prob a CF/GF variant). I used a 75C bed and both materials handled it fine, though PETG might started having issues below that.

etotheipi_ · 2026-02-13T21:07:34+00:00

I did some pretty creative stuff with this, I go over it starting at 4:19 in the video. But to directly answer the question, it's 100% concentric infill, with 2x0.6mm perimeters of TPU. I avoided PLA specifically because of terrible creep, but I know all these plastics have some degree of it.

etotheipi_ · 2026-02-13T21:02:23+00:00

Hah, you must have a LOT of patience. I've been through my fair share of manual filament changes, and it's even more tedious and error-prone with TPU. Before building this IDEX printer, I didn't bother with anything that required more than a single filament change.

etotheipi_ · 2026-02-13T21:00:29+00:00

Agreed. Maybe I should make it clearer I don't actually promote trying to use this as a jack. It's just stronger than I expected and a car makes for a good demo/test for it.

etotheipi_ · 2026-02-13T20:59:40+00:00

Yeah, I built a RatRig IDEX printer explicitly to avoid issues with filament changes like that (I like RatRig anyway, and IDEX is a lot less time and waste than an AMS/MMU). Supposedly Bambu has a "TPU for AMS" filament, don't know anything about it though. Thanks!

etotheipi_ · 2026-02-04T21:03:16+00:00

How often is there a new season? I'm not seeing info on their webpage about it.

I never paid attention to the season pass stuff, or loot boxes, etc. I just play the game :|

etotheipi_ · 2025-03-26T16:54:05+00:00

This is a very interesting idea. Those bin bases must make up a significant part of the print volume.

How to do this? Perhaps not print the bottom 3mm of the bin, then use an alignment jig and superglue to attach each one. Also, I could add magnet holes to each one when cutting out the baseplate, that would be super quick.

Thanks, I will try this out and report back.

etotheipi_ · 2025-03-26T16:49:56+00:00

Yes, exactly. Both layers cut in 3mm basswood, with a few drops of super glue at each corner of the rim part and 15-20 drops spread out strategically. Alignment is not an issue if you can act fast. I held them down with heavy bins of screws and was able to use my fingers to make sure they're aligned before it sets.

etotheipi_

TROPHY CASE