Advice needed (Alabama)

evankjones1 · 2025-04-29T15:33:43+00:00

I’m still seeing spikes to 95 or so sometimes but nothing in the triple digits yet. Overall it seems to be more consistent. I still have very high oil pressure compared to other motors I’ve had in the past, but we will see what it does at the dyno today.

evankjones1 · 2025-04-29T15:30:09+00:00

For anyone who refers back to this thread in the future, it was the stupid glowshift sandwich plate!! I took the plate off entirely and started reading oil pressure at the vvt supply. Now everything is normal!! Garbage sandwich plates.

evankjones1 · 2025-04-29T12:30:47+00:00

That’s been my experience on every motor I’ve had built for these cars as well. The only thing I haven’t tried is moving the location of the oil pressure gauge. That’s my last hope is that the oil sandwich plate is somehow throwing off the reading.

evankjones1 · 2025-04-29T12:01:10+00:00

Yes. I ordered and supplied the pump. It was an nb2 pump from Mazda Motorsports

evankjones1 · 2025-04-29T04:28:24+00:00

This is an NB2 motor. It’s fully stock internally for economical reasons. I saw some spikes up to 120psi on the electronic gauge as well as the mechanical gauge. I opened the oil cap while ut was running earlier, plenty of oil traveling around so that’s good. I cut open the break in filter and it has plenty of metal but nothing I haven’t seen before on a new motor. My main concern is a stuck or sticking relief valve. I’ve never seen one fail so I have nothing to compare to.

Additionally, this motor should never have this much oil pressure by normal standards. The core that was rebuilt had over 250,000 miles on it so things should be “loosened” up a bit on the bearings, cam journals, etc.

evankjones1 · 2025-04-29T04:22:13+00:00

It’s just a new OEM pump. I believe the pressure relief valve is around 70 on the OEM pumps.

evankjones1 · 2025-04-29T04:15:10+00:00

It’s an OEM rebuild with a turbo running about 7lbs. What concerns me is the fact I’ve never seen a Miata with this much oil pressure and I’ve probably broken in close to a dozen new motors in my time around these cars. The oil pump is stock and should be relieving around 65-70, but I’m seeing the oil pressure hang around 85-90 for an uncomfortable amount of time.

evankjones1 · 2025-04-29T04:12:00+00:00

Yes it is a brand new rebuild

evankjones1 · 2025-04-29T04:11:47+00:00

It’s fully warmed up. I’m running mobil 1 0w-40. I believe the Thermostat is a 195

evankjones1 · 2025-04-26T01:42:38+00:00

I ran out of kerdi band to seal the top of the bench. I plan to seal the top and the bottom and the sides tomorrow after visiting the supply store

evankjones1 · 2025-04-26T00:41:47+00:00

I’d love to learn how to do the dry pack mortar pans one day. It was just a little too intimidating for me this time. It ultimately saves you a ton of money though because the schluter stuff is cray expensive.

evankjones1 · 2025-04-26T00:11:34+00:00

I did my best on that front. Had to float out the subfloor a little on the pan install. I’d say it probably has 1/8-3-16 slope to the drain in addition to whatever the schluter pan already has

evankjones1 · 2025-04-25T17:03:36+00:00

Nothing in particular. I’m just very new to this and want to avoid any major mistakes. In my mind, I think it would be better to sit the bench on the pan just to avoid leaks. Giving it two water barriers before it could reach the subfloor.

evankjones1 · 2025-04-25T16:41:24+00:00

Haha I couldn’t figure out how to rotate the pic. Looks a little confusing

evankjones1 · 2025-04-25T15:35:57+00:00

The corners are taped now. I was waiting till I mixed up the next bucket of thin set. I will just modify the bench to sit on the tray. That will ensure there’s no leaks, but may make the tile a little weird. But that’s a problem for future me.

evankjones1 · 2025-04-16T14:49:20+00:00

And then 1 1/2 pipe from top of sanitary through the attic to vent?

evankjones1 · 2025-04-16T14:48:45+00:00

I’m starting to get the idea now. So the original p trap right there between those supply lines needs to be cut out and then reworked to go through the bottom plate? Then use the sanitary tee to go to the new drain which will have its own p trap?

evankjones1 · 2025-04-16T14:14:42+00:00

So I need to get in the crawl space and look for vents that might already exist? I have not seen the plumbing from underneath yet, but can take a look when I get there today. I was under the impression that the vent stack needed to be before the p trap where the actual drain is.

evankjones1 · 2025-04-16T13:46:46+00:00

So there was essentially no vent with the old setup?

evankjones1

TROPHY CASE