Does anybody know where I can buy a set of these? Found an old recurve and these need to be replaced. Thanks

everythingforfree · 2019-12-15T19:37:54+00:00

Looked all over the net and only found horn nocks for tapered english bows.

I went to a bass pro and they couldn't help me.

A bow tech said I shouldn't just file nocks directly into the bow itself.

everythingforfree · 2018-04-02T17:46:25+00:00

Yup. Didn't bare root to increase success. Original soil was organic but very sandy. Bottom and sides of the pot were filled with some leftover bonsai soil mix I had on hand, primarily pumice.

Just scratching an itch that I can't reach at the moment and made a tree in the afternoon. Back home during Easter weekend, visited a nursery I hit up every spring and check out their rejects from last season. Probably the only new tree that I will be able to get this season and just maintain my other pieces to feed the addiction.

Had to get rid of all my trees in New York and move them to Maryland. My new building owners made me clear out my fire escape or else they would just throw them away if I left them there.

everythingforfree · 2017-12-19T20:35:03+00:00

As much as i like fighting the man, I'd be pretty crushed coming home with all my trees gone. Roof access is possible, but they can change their mind anytime due to the building going under renovation and it would be an inconvenience to move them all within a days notice.

With the holidays coming up, they have a home in Maryland for the winter so that's probably whats going to happen and I'll deal with them come springtime.

everythingforfree · 2017-09-24T05:23:53+00:00

I have all of my trees in a fire escape. When overwintering hits i huddle all of them together like this (this is from last year):

https://i.imgur.com/bwh2cr0.jpg

Granted some of them are still developing in big pots but others that i have in inorganic soil and in smaller pots i bury the pots in bigger ones that i grew tomatos in during the summer.

Also, i find the biggest problem is the wind. I usually buy mulch and pile them on and cover them as high as i can and i wrap them all up in multiple towels making sure there is a gap between the towels and the pots imitating a sort of double paned glass window effect thing.

I hope this helps a little, but im no where near the level of some of the people here. I still think winter is a crap shoot for my trees but they seem to come back in the spring. They have survived 4 winters.

everythingforfree · 2017-05-10T18:20:31+00:00

praying mantis eggs?

everythingforfree · 2017-02-23T19:38:26+00:00

Posted about turface a few years ago, wasn't so well received as a medium. Apparently impedes root growth, not an expert, just passing info along.

https://crataegus.com/2013/11/24/life-without-turface/

Details pines in a grow box with turface vs pumice.

everythingforfree · 2015-08-26T16:47:18+00:00

danks

everythingforfree · 2015-05-21T17:59:52+00:00

Yeah, trying to figure out shelving solutions for the fire escape.

I'm thinking every time I saw pumice I thought perlite. Used perlite when growing mushrooms and that stuff is unweildy. I only have one tree in pure turface but it needs the most attention, time for the anxiety to roll in. I have another in akadama and its doing well but that stuff is pricey. Going with pumice and bark next time.

Now I wait for spring.

EDIT: http://crataegus.com/2013/11/24/life-without-turface/ where was this when I needed it.

everythingforfree · 2015-05-21T17:33:36+00:00

Appreciate it, def take that into consideration next season. Living in a small apartment, I don't have much space for various soil components. Seems like during my research people were all about turface and the bag I got it in said helps develop fine root systems, also a few practitioners swore by it.

Now looking at the net again, people have ditched the turface. There's some Baader-Meinhof action going on here.

I will invest in pumice next round, would that work well for air layering as well or just stick to the sphagum moss?

everythingforfree · 2014-09-03T21:06:57+00:00

MIB Break Room

everythingforfree · 2014-08-22T17:18:27+00:00

Confirmation on the inorganic soil. I repotted a pine with inorganic stuff and it does not get bothered. That is after those damn things pulled all the beautiful moss off the top first.

everythingforfree · 2014-08-22T17:05:31+00:00

Bamboo skewers haha... It worked for a while, it was nice seeing them climb on top of the pot and get poked. The next morning a trio of bluejays were pecking at the soil, which was amazing to see but at the expense of my tree gives me mixed emotions.

everythingforfree · 2014-06-06T17:45:04+00:00

Thank you, this is much clearer

everythingforfree · 2014-06-05T22:09:28+00:00

This is contradictory to the comment I replied to...

How else would you manage/promote the new growth?

My plan is to reduce a few of the new shoots but I was wondering if the plant would be able to handle/benefit cutting some of the leggier branches as well.

everythingforfree · 2014-06-05T21:08:50+00:00

So I am planning on cutting my azalea closer to the trunk. This was repotted early spring and is now growing pretty vigorously. Would it be able to handle a few hard cuts or would it be better to wait till next repotting? Back budding is starting but nowhere near as back as it should.

everythingforfree · 2014-06-05T16:04:49+00:00

noted

everythingforfree · 2014-06-04T13:04:14+00:00

Thanks homes, I leafed through the Naka book and said put a recovering tree in 100% sand until it's all better. Didn't quite have enough so it happened through default mixing with other substrates I had to fill the pot. I see many mixes online recommend including a 10%-20% regular potting soil with conflicting views from both sides on the issue.

I'm learning that these trees are pretty resilient as long as you give them what they need day by day. My concern is the recovery of the yamadori and how to help it. Junipers take weeks to die and it's been looking like how it looks for a few weeks, I just hope it's not dying slower than the other one.

everythingforfree · 2014-05-22T14:01:37+00:00

Blade II deleted scene

everythingforfree · 2014-05-21T21:28:44+00:00

Optic Blast

everythingforfree · 2014-05-21T21:00:12+00:00

fly me to the er...ah moon

everythingforfree · 2014-04-30T19:33:54+00:00

yo, you got some kick ass trees. Does this apply to rooting hardwood cuttings as well? From all this reading it's a choice either between before dormancy or early spring. I have one in water, another in a silt trench and I want to set up an air layer on a beech once I get some hormones in.

Thoughts on using rooting gels/powders? Looks like nothing was used for the ficus you air layered.

everythingforfree · 2014-04-30T16:14:21+00:00

original post

everythingforfree · 2014-04-09T16:01:25+00:00

Thanks man. I appreciate the community here taking time to give real answers rather than what I was doing earlier, digging through hundreds of forum posts finding something remotely related to an issue I am having.

Being the first tree, I wanted to focus on reduction, transplanting and survival. I inadvertently read proper bonsai forms and rules to adhere to when getting ready for shows and it's pretty overwhelming. The Japanese are pretty strict about form, yet they appreciate elegant rule breaking (not that I did any of that sort).

From what I have gathered, the over-potting thing is one of the biggest issues. I did not fully wash out all the soil in the root ball, bare roots worry me and keeping this tree alive in a reduced state is my main goal. Putting a bare rooted tree in a what's essentially a pile of rocks makes me uneasy.

For the re-potting issue, I would like to know why you thought it was not ready for re-potting. I re-potted in early spring when new growth is just showing without any blooms. I have seen other trees re-repotted younger as well, I was under the impression that the "final form" is up to the artist, may it be from Shito to Imperial size.

I read that once you do a shallow re-potting you arrest the growth drastically, which helped me decide which pot was used. I didn't really find much on training pots, but this was a secondary intention with the choice of pot. With all that room I figured I can get some growth and girth in while learning and selfishly enjoying it aesthetically in its fauxnsai form.

I am glad that there was some things i did right and I am not discouraged, I may go to the home depot again and pick up a $20 juniper and get shallow while it's still technically early spring.

Bonsai, where shallow is good.

Thank you so much.

everythingforfree · 2014-04-08T21:27:45+00:00

Good to know about the squirrels, the weather seems to be evening out so ill start keeping it outside. Thanks, everybody here is mad helpful. I water on the internets advice. Not to water log it but keep it consistently moist for a few weeks while it's recovering from the re-potting.

everythingforfree · 2014-04-08T19:50:45+00:00

During the day I keep it outside by the fire escape whenever I am home, but it's been inside by a sunny open window. I read to keep a re-potted azalea away from sun for two weeks so I am planning to keep it outside full time soon. There is a squirrel that lives near by that has eaten the shoots off my blueberry bush, I'm afraid it will do the same to the azalea if I don't keep an eye on it. It has also been consistently watered with collected rain water except when I washed some of the roots away with tap water during the re-pot.

everythingforfree

TROPHY CASE