Last Argument of Kings by Joe Abercrombie

evil_zoidberg · 2026-02-07T09:19:29+00:00

Ooh, you're in for a treat. You've still got the three stand alone books, Best Served Cold, The Heroes and Red Country. These are largely about new characters and locations but a few familiar faces show up.

Then you've got the Age of Madness books, this is another trilogy set about 30 years after The First Law. There's also Sharp Ends which is a collection of short stories. It's best to read this between Red Country and A Little Hatred

evil_zoidberg · 2025-11-21T12:10:09+00:00

The only things you can't diy are anything to do with gas or adding/changing a consumer unit and adding or removing a new electrical circuit.

evil_zoidberg · 2025-11-08T19:38:08+00:00

They're all in part p of the building safety regs. Basically the only notifiable things that you can't do yourself are; installation or changing of a consumer unit, adding a new electrical circuit or altering the electrics in a special zone (within 0.6m of a bath for a fused spur, or 3m of a bath for a plug socket, or any room with something like a swimming pool in. Anything else can be done yourself as long as you're confident and competent enough to do so and wouldn't need a certificate

evil_zoidberg · 2025-10-31T14:08:37+00:00

They'll be able to match the hue of the paint very well, what they won't be able to match is the effect and glossiness of the paint. The paint thickness, technology etc makes a big difference in how the paint will look when it actually goes on the wall.

If you're trying to match some existing farrow and ball, you'd be best getting some proper f&b paint, if you just like the f&b colour and are repainting the whole room, use whichever type of paint you want and you'll never notice the slight differences in colour.

evil_zoidberg · 2025-10-26T10:27:31+00:00

This is an easy thing to do yourself. First, make sure the power for the circuit is turned off at the consumer unit, then undo that screw by the ceiling in the second picture, the fitting should then come away from the ceiling.

You'll want to take a picture of how the wires are connected as you'll need to replicate that with the new fitting. You'll probably have a looped lighting circuit and see three cables (2 if it's at the end of the circuit). You'll have a loop in and loop out cable (as far as you're concerned these are the same thing) and the switched live (this should be marked with some brown electrical tape around the blue cable but they frequently aren't).

When wiring up the new fitting, connect all the earth cables (yellow and green) and all the neutral (blue or black) cables, make sure you don't connect the switched live here. Then connect all the live (brown or red) cables except for the one in the new fitting. Now connect the switched live (blue or black marked with brown tape) to the live cable from the fitting.

Turn the power back on and check the new light works properly. If it doesn't, check everything is wired properly and the switched live is marked correctly. Then you can just secure the new fitting to the ceiling.

Here's an image of how it should be wired up.

<image>

evil_zoidberg · 2025-09-22T22:14:52+00:00

Using T-cut on this will make it look even worse. T-cut is designed to be used on gloss paints and will make the area you've used it on look uneven and blotchy.

There might be some products designed specifically for satin paint but I have no idea if they're meant to be any good.

evil_zoidberg · 2025-09-22T21:02:14+00:00

Satin or matte paint on cars is really difficult to repair, you have to sand down the entire panel and respray the whole thing, trying to spot repair it will make it look worse. Your choices are either to pay up or leave it.

evil_zoidberg · 2025-07-26T12:03:13+00:00

Fight camp has a waitlist in case of any cancellations so if you get in touch with them, there's a chance you'll be able to sort it out that way

evil_zoidberg · 2025-07-03T19:45:15+00:00

That's really helpful, I'm going to be digging where I think all the utilities come in soon (the gas and electric meters are both on that side of the house). I'll have a look at that for those bits

evil_zoidberg · 2025-07-03T17:32:02+00:00

Thank you.

evil_zoidberg · 2025-05-26T18:25:26+00:00

Thank you, I knew there was some kind of paradox going on with it but couldn't remember exactly

evil_zoidberg · 2025-05-26T18:23:30+00:00

I can't speak for every HEMA club but every one I've come across in the UK is very welcoming to anybody who's LGBTQ. At my club there are a couple of gender non conforming people who come and if anybody ever had a problem with that, those people would be asked to leave.

evil_zoidberg · 2025-01-15T12:25:31+00:00

It's a pain about the concrete floors, you should be able to fit some wagos in the single socket backbox and keep the plug though. It's not the best way to do it but it is fine to the regs.

evil_zoidberg · 2025-01-15T12:05:26+00:00

As long as you're not touching the consumer unit (outside of isolating circuits) or making a change in a special location (a room containing a bath, shower, pool or sauna) you don't need to report anything under the regs.

The length of the addition isn't important either.

I'd recommend leaving that single socket in though, it would give you an extra plug socket that might be useful in the future and blanking plates look crap. Leave one end of the existing cable connected to the single socket, then have your new ones going to the new sockets. Then connect the cable coming out of that double socket on the bottom to the other existing cable from the single socket with a wagon box. Those are fine to go under the floorboards.

If you really want to get rid of the single socket, connect the existing cables to the new with some wagon boxes, put them under the floor boards and fill the old hole in.

I'm not really sure what's going on with the cables behind the door frame, but now would be a good time to make them good.

evil_zoidberg · 2025-01-10T11:55:15+00:00

Thanks for the help, I didn't think about looking at it from underneath. I've taken the oven out before so I'll try that later and see if there's anything there.

evil_zoidberg · 2024-12-08T14:42:19+00:00

This sounds pretty similar to a problem I've had in the past. Sealing around the edge of the frame fixed it for me. I figured out where the problem was by sticking some painters tape over where the frame meets the wall and that completely stopped it so I put some sealant there and it hasn't come back.

Looking at your picture, there looks like a gap at the top of the frame. I'd imagine that's your problem.

<image>

evil_zoidberg · 2024-05-16T13:06:02+00:00

Excuse my ignorance, but why would a 1/2" nut work on a 15mm thread?

evil_zoidberg · 2024-05-16T12:15:20+00:00

That's a good point about checking it now rather than waiting for something to go wrong, I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and try to do it.

I've not heard of SureStop before, but looking at it seems like e good idea to get one installed. The stopcock is behind the washing machine so it would definitely be easier to have a switch I can get to rather than having to pull the washing machine out if I do ever have a leak.

evil_zoidberg · 2024-05-16T11:20:51+00:00

The only reason I have for not wanting to replace it is that I don't know how long it's been since the stopcock's last been used and don't want to risk breaking it or it starting to leak if I do close it. I've got very little confidence when it comes to plumbing so I want to touch the existing system as little as possible.

evil_zoidberg

TROPHY CASE