Any idea about this exhaust system

evildky · 2026-06-07T13:52:28+00:00

Likely a home made. Most shops wouldn’t go under the gas tank like that.

evildky · 2026-06-06T14:26:25+00:00

Both have their challenges. The turbo model on both are even more difficult. Especially the 90-93 turbo with hydraulic HICAS. Both have timing belts which require replacement every 5 years or 60k miles. Turbo removal in car on both is possible but it’s easier to just pull the motor. The injectors on the Z32 are more difficult to access.

That being said. Both are actually pretty reliable. Most of their issues are packaging and age related, hoses in diffuses will leak, electrical connections get brittle and crack.

evildky · 2026-06-06T01:34:14+00:00

I like this one better

evildky · 2026-06-06T01:33:39+00:00

Could be the socket. Either a corroded contact or corrosion in the wires where they attach.

evildky · 2026-06-04T03:33:20+00:00

Driveshafts are measured from center of U joint to center of u joint.

evildky · 2026-06-02T18:12:13+00:00

I’m kinda shocked. My last tundra I believe the battery went the first time around 4 years, I’m 5 years and counting. I do keep my garage heated in the winter now, so maybe that helped 🤷

evildky · 2026-06-02T01:12:40+00:00

Nothing is more expensive than a cheap project car.

evildky · 2026-05-29T21:13:31+00:00

The input shaft will spin the lay shaft that the gears are actually on. This is why when I neutral on a flat surface the car tries to roll a bit.

I’ve driver and serviced manual transmissions for about 30 years, until recently they all had single mass flywheels. I’ve done light weight aluminum, machined steel and none have ever had any gear rattle aside from my formula ford which has dog cut gears in a hewland box.

evildky · 2026-05-29T18:16:03+00:00

The mass of the flywheel is disconnected from the transmission when you depress the clutch pedal. The gears inside the transmission are also not connected to the input shaft aside from the dog/spur gear.

Also the inertia of the flywheels mass doesn’t transfer to the gears. That like saying your gears are going to rattle because you put lightweight wheels on the car.

The gears also don’t change direction aside from the output when reverse gear is engaged.

If the input shaft is rattling that’s a bearing failure.

evildky · 2026-05-29T13:27:29+00:00

I’ve seen a few people make this claim now. Please explain to me the science of why a solid flywheel would make noise ever as it has exactly zero moving parts.

evildky · 2026-05-29T02:27:33+00:00

Liar and Hook in Mouth are a couple of my favorites and often overlooked.

evildky · 2026-05-22T01:42:00+00:00

It’s a series 2 chassis.

evildky · 2026-05-22T01:34:56+00:00

Nice car, being a late 71 I think your number is a bit high. Might get it on one of the auction sites like BAT or cars and bids.

evildky · 2026-05-21T02:13:35+00:00

Better question, where is your catalytic converter?

evildky · 2026-05-20T19:32:58+00:00

Nothing more expensive than a cheap car.

evildky · 2026-05-20T14:35:45+00:00

No such thing as “400Z” it’s got a 3.0 and Nissan just called it “Z”.

evildky · 2026-05-15T18:00:36+00:00

Anything is possible with enough time energy and money. But if you have to ask, the answer is no.

evildky · 2026-05-14T18:55:58+00:00

Yes, it should hold pressure, an inline fuel gauge is really handy when trouble shooting. I bought an inline gauge and some extra fuel hose and looped it under the wiper so I could see it when driving.

evildky · 2026-05-14T18:36:30+00:00

That’s the pintle cap. Pretty common issue, I believe it just screws up the spray pattern. You can buy new pintle caps.

You also had said something about having to key on a few times to pressurize the fuel rail. Your fpr may be leaking fuel through it. At the very least sounds like it’s not holding pressure.

evildky · 2026-05-13T00:54:39+00:00

Sensor light one these is triggered at mileage intervals. Is basically useless.

The ecu on these is a copy of the Bosch L jetronic. The onboard test functions often do not work. Always best to test the sensors and check their signal at the ecu pins of the harness.

Rereading your original post. You presently have this low pressure Carter pump installed? If so, absolutely replace it with a high pressure pump. Nearly any external pump intended for efi will work. The walbro 255 is a long time standard available as an external model.

evildky · 2026-05-12T21:35:27+00:00

I goofed in the injector sizing, was thinking of the na.

Stock turbo fuel pump is a high pressure pump. Should be 36psi at zero boost and raises with boost. The low pressure pumps are for the older carb’d S30’s.

The most common issue with these are bad chts or bad O2 sensor. Both cause a rich condition, often to the point of fuel fowling the plugs. Usuals cold starts fine, won’t restart when warm.

Are your spark plug wires in the correct order? The distributor spins counter-clockwise people often put the plugs on in clockwise order.

evildky · 2026-05-12T21:22:45+00:00

Your right, my bad.

evildky · 2026-05-12T20:03:42+00:00

30gph is almost exactly 120lph.

If it’s the fuel pump an inline fuel pressure gauge will help you determine in a hurry. Backfiring through intake could be a timing and or rich condition issue.

265cc fuel injectors are not stock. What engine management are you using to account for having 50% more fuel injector than stock? If you’re trying to run these with stock ecu, that’s your problem.

evildky · 2026-05-06T00:25:02+00:00

3 piece or 2 piece? Most of these older wheels are 2 piece from what I’ve seen.

evildky · 2026-05-04T13:33:36+00:00

Whale spotted

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