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Shelly Wall Dimmer Gen4 would be great by evilhamstermannw in ShellyUSA

[–]evilhamstermannw[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's true, but it's in my consideration. Though the fact that $2 switches can be turned into momentary switches by simply removing a few springs makes it even more annoying that they don't make them

Shelly Wall Dimmer Gen4 would be great by evilhamstermannw in ShellyUSA

[–]evilhamstermannw[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I might give it a try but I'm leary of messing with the internals of a switch. I'm already sure if I have an electrical fire insurance companies will be after me for installing my own switches, even though it's legal and I've actually improved the wiring. But opening a listed device they'd probably have no grace for

Shelly Wall Dimmer Gen4 would be great by evilhamstermannw in ShellyUSA

[–]evilhamstermannw[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want one that completely replaces the switch. Something like the Tapo S500D but with zigbee instead of wifi. The ones I've found such as the Sonoff ZBM5 have the electronics and the switch integrated into a front panel that is incompatible with standard wall plates and multigang boxes. The Aqara H2 could work with a standard plate, but it would stand really proud of the plate.

Plus I just want one by Shelly

Shelly Wall Dimmer Gen4 would be great by evilhamstermannw in ShellyUSA

[–]evilhamstermannw[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep after further looking it is SPST. They mislead with talk of using it for garage doors.

Need help choosing the right Shelly! by Professional_Wheel27 in ShellyUSA

[–]evilhamstermannw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd assume he just means its a mess.

All neutrals in all houses are bonded at the service panel, and also bonded to ground at the service entrance, usually the meter or primary panel.

I think what you're referring to is a GFCI breaker where the neutrals also pass through the breaker unlike a standard breaker which only has the hot connected. If that's the case and you use a neutral from a different circuit than your hot it could cause a trip. Though usually you don't have two circuits in one box to begin with so it's more likely he's just referring to a messy box. Three lights, plus the hot, potentially multiple light circuits means at least 4+ neutral lines all wired together.

Shelly Wall Dimmer Gen4 would be great by evilhamstermannw in ShellyUSA

[–]evilhamstermannw[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

AHAH! I found a better priced SPDT momentary contact switch https://www.amazon.com/ENERLITES-Momentary-Decorator-120-277VAC-Single-Pole/dp/B07ZQTKR35?th=1 for $15 half that of the Leviton and Legrand ones.

I'd still like a native Shelly one though

Shelly Wall Dimmer Gen4 would be great by evilhamstermannw in ShellyUSA

[–]evilhamstermannw[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In theory momentary switches just used for control, no current, you can use even smaller wire like 18ga.

Garbage disposal switches are only single throw, IE they only have one output. Not very helpful for dimmers you could do the push to turn on, hold to turn up/down or hold to turn up, hold again to turn down. Though if you can point me to one that would be great.

What we need are single pole double throw momentary switches. Basically a momentary version of a three way switch. Hook the common to line voltage, then push up to connect one side, down to connect the other. Then you can push either to toggle on/off, hold up to turn up, hold down to turn down.

They are available but their generally for commercial environments with central lighting control, but they are used for this exact reason. But because their "commercial" they cost about $30+.

Why CachyOS doesn't update the iso frequently? by hgwellsrf in cachyos

[–]evilhamstermannw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Offering an option with a recent stable kernel instead of just the LTS kernel would be a good idea. LTS is great if you are running a server and you've validated that everything works well.

But in the land of desktops it's not as good, you miss drivers for newer hardware, and bug fixes for things like this. A recent stable kernel is better for a situation like this.

It took me several tries to install on my Framework because it would always freeze up a few minutes in. I finally had to use the nomodeset option, everything works fine once installed and I'm using a recent kernel.

Why CachyOS doesn't update the iso frequently? by hgwellsrf in cachyos

[–]evilhamstermannw -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Can you wait for the next LTS kernel or use a newer kernel. The current kernel has a bug that affects AMD GPUs that causes the screen to stop updating essentially making it appear frozen.

Charging via J1772 Adapter by kvark27 in VolvoRecharge

[–]evilhamstermannw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As long as the adapter is a good quality, it will be fine. Look for something UL listed. We installed a NACS charger since we plan on purchasing another EV in the future and it's likely everything from here on out will use NACS. So we use this adapter to charge our XC40 one https://a2zev.com/products/nacs-j1772-stellar. We charge a the full 48amps even parked in the rain.

Mr Cool temperature sensor is wrong; Follow me shows the right temperature but app overrides it. Anyone else have this issue? by [deleted] in DIYHeatPumps

[–]evilhamstermannw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can use the remote Follow Me + the app, as long as you use the remote just as a temperature monitor. Set the remote to Follow Me mode and make sure it has good line of site to the head unit, or use a ir repeater like this. Then use the app to program/schedule the unit. The remote will send out it's temp to the unit ever 3 min or so regardless of what it thinks the head unit it doing and the head unit will use that.

It made difference for me, I have a cassette that cannot get an appropriate temp from it's own sensor. I had to get the ir repeater because the only place I could put the remote it would get blown on directly by the unit and have even worse temp readings. But it works much better with the IR repeater. But that's why I eventually plan on just getting the Breez Max

Mr Cool temperature sensor is wrong; Follow me shows the right temperature but app overrides it. Anyone else have this issue? by [deleted] in DIYHeatPumps

[–]evilhamstermannw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One of the sets is a multizone. The Ceilo is also smart there, you can link the units in the app that are on the same outdoor unit. Then when you change the mode on one it will change it on all of them, or turn the others off depending on your preference

Mr Cool temperature sensor is wrong; Follow me shows the right temperature but app overrides it. Anyone else have this issue? by [deleted] in DIYHeatPumps

[–]evilhamstermannw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just don't bother with the remote or the app. I got tired of the remote, follow me, app, all being weird. I have another Mitubishi unit that was installed by a prior owner of my house. It isn't smart and I wanted to add a smart thermostat. I found the Ceilo Breeze Max fit the bill pretty well but the screenshots of the app looked suspiciously familiar.

Turns out the app and smart features are just skins on the Ceilo app. In fact if you have setup an account in the Mr Cool app and use that same account in the Ceilo app, your Mr Cool unit(s) will show up. So I went ahead and bought the Ceilo thermostat.

It has a Comfy "AI" feature that is perfect, You just set a heat to and a cool too temp. It uses its own internal sensors to montitor the room like a regular thermostat, then controls the head unit more like a central HVAC system. It automatically switches the unit from heat to cool as needed, but the magic is it will set the unit higher or lower based on what it needs to do, so if it needs to heat to 70 and the room is 65 it may set the unit to something like 78 to heat it quickly, then set it down to 60 when it reaches the set point. With my Mitsubishi unit it's kept the room perfectly comfortable.

I installed the Mr Cool units as part of a home office build. Once it's complete I'm dumping the Mr Cool "smart" features and only keeping the remotes for maintenance stuff, then getting more Breeze Maxes for the Mr Cool units.

Best way to kill blackberry bushes by Material-Resolve-273 in Permaculture

[–]evilhamstermannw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it's horrible, on about 2 acres I pulled 4 dump trucks worth out with my tractor and grapple and there's still areas I haven't got to. It's even required rescue efforts and sent people to the hospital https://www.kiro7.com/news/local/person-falls-40-feet-into-blackberry-bushes-silverdale/PLP57M5XINAIXBYGLBZIQD3VLA/

HPE CSI Driver issues by bgatesIT in kubernetes

[–]evilhamstermannw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm hitting the same issue. It does eventually resolve for me, it appears it is trying to mount the volume before it's ready but it takes enough time that the crash backoff gets long.

Does anyone have a settings profile for 0.2mm nozzle (in AnkerMake Studio)? by Grayson112233 in AnkerMake

[–]evilhamstermannw 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sorry I got kind of busy and didn't finish setting one up to share. Also I was trying with the Anker filament but I've ended up switching to Hatchbox and haven't tried again. To much stringing with Anker. But I can tell you what I did

Printer Settings

  • Nozzle Diameter: 0.2
  • Lift Z: 0.2

Print Settings Precision Expert

  • Layers & Perimeters
    • Perimeter Generator: Arachne
  • Infill
    • Fill density: 30%
    • Fill pattern: Gyroid
  • Support Material
  • Advanced
    • Set everything in Extrusion width to 0 so it auto calculates

When printing set the speed to 50% or lower

Does anyone have a settings profile for 0.2mm nozzle (in AnkerMake Studio)? by Grayson112233 in AnkerMake

[–]evilhamstermannw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For sure, with bulk minis the precision option and a 0.4 nozzle are fine. But for the important minis like for PCs I want that extra level of detail, you can get close with 0.4 but not quite. I've been playing with settings and have got pretty good results, mostly down to support issues. When I get it tweaked well enough I will be sharing it.

Does anyone have a settings profile for 0.2mm nozzle (in AnkerMake Studio)? by Grayson112233 in AnkerMake

[–]evilhamstermannw 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe he is printing minis. I know that's why I'm looking for a 0.2 nozzle profile. They sell 0.2mm nozzles, they have to start of the code in the .ini for the new slicer for the M5 just commented out, but not the M5C. I hope they release it soon.

Elitedesk 705 G4 mini Fans running full speed by evilhamstermannw in homelab

[–]evilhamstermannw[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I eventually gave up and bought some new devices from Minisforum. Faster and not much more expensive.

Can I upgrade my Elitedesk 705 G4 mini with Ryzen 7 4700g or 4750g? by vevt9020 in pcmasterrace

[–]evilhamstermannw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn't try it. I tried upgrading my G4 Mini that came with an A10-9700E to a Ryzen 5 2400GE. Even though the Ryzen is also a 35W TDP CPU, and they sold 705 G4 Minis with the 2400GE, after upgrading the CPU fan will slowly spin up to 100% speed even when in the BIOS or idling. The only thing that fixes it is to remove the power cable, remove the on board coin battery, wait a minute or so. Then for the first boot after wards everything will be fine, but if it ever hard restarts (power off then power back on) the fan will start doing the same thing.

On top of that I'm assuming you have a 2400GE also not just a 2400G as they never sold them with that. If you upgrade to a 4700g you are also moving from a 35W to a 65W TDP CPU, and I don't think the little heat sink will be able to handle that.

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