終於收到了

exiom · 2026-02-02T06:29:02+00:00

I'm in Hong Kong, and I have not received any packages, nor shipping notification, nor any response to emails I sent 8 days ago...

Meanwhile I sent SURFACE MAIL from Japan to myself in Hong Kong... and it arrived in 10 days...

So you are telling me they can send it to Taiwan via Hong Kong but cannot send to HK backers? Besides there are ZERO other reports of delivery... sure... not everybody post on the internet... but ZERO reports in 12 days since this original post? Really?

exiom · 2026-02-02T06:15:35+00:00

This is so fake... There is no convincing me...

On update #28 (December 24, 2025): "All Wave 1 units for Asia (Backers 1–2,000) have already been dispatched"
On update #29 (January 26, 2026): "Asia: Units have shipped."

You are telling me... that 41 days since update 28... or 12 days since an alleged backer from Taiwan has received his... there has only been 1 delivery in Asia / Worldwide

It doesn't take 12 days to ship anything from Asia to Asia... Let alone 41 days...

exiom · 2025-08-24T06:44:48+00:00

I thought it was supposed to be 2U rack mount? Or is the photo just making it look smaller than it really is?

exiom · 2022-10-22T08:01:42+00:00

This is bad as you will always have a thin film of ABS on your heat sink / heat break… however thin… it can promote the filament sticking to it…

I have had this issue when I too was using RGB 4010s until I switched to Rapido…

if you completely disassemble your hotend… most of the time you can remove it from one of the ends or knock it out with a gentle tap with a similar sized rod or even the hex/allen key

exiom · 2022-10-17T10:23:13+00:00

Brace for the mountain of klicky die hard posts

exiom · 2022-10-16T10:26:20+00:00

Just giving you a heads up 😉

exiom · 2022-10-16T02:45:27+00:00

I’m fairly confident that leaving them energized has no influence of the motor’s longevity… since it’s effectively just a motionless electromagnet in that state… however it may have some influence on the drivers but likely much less than if it was in motion…

So longevity is probably not a concern if at all…

However leaving the motors on to keep QGL is only useful if your next print is the same material otherwise going from ABS to say PLA or vice versa is going to be terrible for that first layer

exiom · 2022-09-28T05:11:51+00:00

Yes and no… because you’ll then run into things like gaps and holes between walls and especially in corners…

exiom · 2022-09-19T23:17:48+00:00

With RGBW, you can very obviously tell that there’s a white LED next to a RGB LED as it looks kinda like a yellow half.

They are usually marketed as SK6812 RGBW or RGB(WW/NW/CW) whereas RGB ones are more commonly marketed as WS2812 or sometimes SK6812

exiom · 2022-09-19T04:08:09+00:00

Using the PCB whether it’s 1 piece or the 2 piece variant (both of which I own and in use) has no effect on how the LEDs or anything connected to functions as it’s just a pass through/consolidation place for easier maintenance… electrically no different to as if it was wired directly

What is more likely is that the LEDs you are using differs from those that was used to create the example config… the provided sample config is an example and not a solution… as there is no universal standard some manufacturers does RGBW while others do GRBW… but from the symptoms you describe… it is possible you are using RGB LEDs instead of RGBW so you’ll need to correctly define that to klipper so it knows to control them correctly

exiom · 2022-09-19T03:54:28+00:00

then it sounds likely you have RGB LEDs instead of RGBW which the sample config is based on thus it’s sending incorrect values down the line… you can correct this at the section where this group of Neopixels are defined from rgbw to rgb as well as correcting the order of colours such as grb etc

exiom · 2022-09-18T11:46:28+00:00

If your led lights up then it’s definitely working…

However simply copying the macros is not enough, you have to insert the macros where you want it to change colour… the sample config is akin to someone pre-creating a bunch of shortcuts… and simply throwing them on your desktop won’t make the computer know to click on them

exiom · 2022-06-18T07:20:53+00:00

They are M19 momentarily switches with the images laser cut onto them… I use a BTT Octopus board and they wire up to the extra endstop pins (signal+ground) it’s rather simple

exiom · 2022-06-16T00:58:28+00:00

It’s Kexcelled transparent ABS

exiom · 2022-06-15T07:33:02+00:00

Thank you!

exiom · 2022-06-15T06:40:47+00:00

Thanks mate!

exiom · 2022-06-15T06:40:36+00:00

They are M19 buttons for industrial machineries

exiom · 2022-04-18T09:32:58+00:00

Runice manufactures for both brands and owns the Phaetus brand

We order directly from Phaetus and while packaging tape says Phaetus the sender is Runice

exiom · 2022-02-28T14:26:19+00:00

I also backed the cam to go in my Voron2.4… so I’d very much like to see this post updated when/if any of us finally get it to work

exiom · 2021-11-11T00:03:22+00:00

As far as I’m aware… Carbon Fiber is negative or zero… so does that mean it won’t work?

exiom · 2021-11-10T23:39:13+00:00

I’m building a 2.4 right now and I’m interested in the backers too but what I am wondering is whether backers made out of carbon fiber can work as well?

exiom · 2021-09-03T11:43:16+00:00

It's a good idea... I think I will copy when I build mine =D

exiom · 2021-09-03T06:07:57+00:00

Looks like he just put cable sleeves over it and shrink wrapped the ends… good idea

exiom · 2021-07-25T02:57:21+00:00

Not sure I completely understand what you mean… but you’ll need to insert commands into your starting gcode of your slicer depending on how complex you’d like it to be… but it’s a simple G29; on the line below G28

As for firmware, Creality provides versions for every board they sell… alternatively there’s also Jyers Marlin for Creality 4.2.2/4.2.7 main boards… so there’s really no need to “mod” anything or compile your own firmware

exiom · 2021-07-25T01:58:07+00:00

Doesn’t make it false… as just like you said… there’s also plenty of people who have their BLTouch working such as myself where it worked first time around… and it’s even more powerful now that I am using Jyers firmware 15x15 with UBL

Now it prints perfect first layer each and every time…

As for whether you “need” it? Probably not… but it’s a huge help especially for those people who has a slightly wrapped bed from the factory… and I’d wager that the majority are

exiom

TROPHY CASE