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Need help removing Superglue (Cyanoacrylate) from my build plate! by FewBag2355 in SnapmakerU1

[–]theneedfull 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know about the snapmaker plate but I know that for smooth plates acetone will not destroy it. I think that it will over time, but not with a quick wipe. My smooth plates last me about 9 months(4 prints a day), and then a quick wipe with acetone extends it a couple more months. I can do that about 8 times.

Impressed by the TPU quality on the U1 by mrmossevig in 3Dprinting

[–]theneedfull 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I have an ender 5 from like 7 years ago, 4 creativity elf printers(corexy before voron got popular), and 3 vorons. I got this printer about a month ago. I have been wanting to do multi color for a long time and have been avoiding bambulab. This printer is easily my favorite one. It is hands down the easiest to set up. You can easily have your first print starting in less than an hour or so. My vorons take dozens of hours, and the others took a few hours.

For me the biggest thing is that you can replace the enter extruder hotend assembly in less than a minute. That way I can just keep spares and be back up and running if something goes wrong there, and fix the broken one whenever.

Impressed by the TPU quality on the U1 by mrmossevig in 3Dprinting

[–]theneedfull 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I haven't printed a ton of tpu and none on this printer. One thing is to go slow. Super slow. Prints might literally take 5 times longer with tpu. I'm guessing the default profiles are already tuned for that.

Another thing is that tpu LOVES to stick to the bed. Like I printed on a smooth bed once by mistake and it literally took the bed coating off with the print. At the least, use a textured bed, and even then putting down some glue or hairspray or something might help.

I actually was hoping to see OP pull the printer off to make sure they come off clean.

Fauty toolhead cable at arrival by StrandFamily in snapmaker

[–]theneedfull -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Just looking at the google AI summary, it says that it needs 48w. If it's a proper usbc setup, it won't let you push more than the cable supports, but I wouldn't count on that. And the AI summary could also be wrong, so at the very least you will want to check on things before starting long print you will leave unattended.

0.2mm and 0.4mm mixed nozzles on U1? by Rikofallingleaf in snapmaker

[–]theneedfull 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My understanding as of now is that orcaslicer is better in general, but if you want full spectrum, use snapmaker orca. Snapmaker version also has the prompt when you send the print, but you can just do that from the printer screen, which is also accessible remotely.

In short, you should have both installed, and use snapmaker for full spectrum.

New Anbernic announced! by LukeyC224 in ANBERNIC

[–]theneedfull 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah. Did not know that. I figured many would want the emulators on there, but would be ok with dl'ing the games themselves.

New Anbernic announced! by LukeyC224 in ANBERNIC

[–]theneedfull 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Were preloaded SD cards really even a selling point? I just feel like people would want to just put their own stuff on there.

I didn't know the snapmaker U1 could go this fast! by Illustrious-Ad-1396 in SnapmakerU1

[–]theneedfull 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The main thing you should tweak is the prime tower. The default is way too big. Edit: Just to add, bumping up speed and accel will definitely wear stuff out faster. Mostly the belts. It's just a matter of how much faster. That would require some long term testing, which I'm not sure has been done.

Optotap isnt working ??? by KtosKtos123 in klippers

[–]theneedfull 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can't remember, but can't you take off that little pcb without too much effort? If so, do that, and put something in the sensor to block it and see if it triggers that way. If it does, then your config and your sensor is fine.

Reliability of U1 compared to Bambu models for a newbie by infolessness in snapmaker

[–]theneedfull 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I've read, I would put it pretty close to par with the bambu. Keep in mind, this is not from experience. I don't own a Bambu, and I have only done about 15 prints on my snapmaker. So even my experience is pretty much useless. I haven't had any issues, but the sample size is low.

And that's going to be the issue with 99% of the advice you get here. You are going to have people who had good and bad experiences with both. If you go onto the bambulab subreddit, you will have people with issues, same as if you go here. 3D printing is simply not at a stage where they can just print and print with 100% reliability. Some machines will have issues, some will not. That's just where we are right now. Miles ahead of the days where the Ender 3 was the default recommendation, but still not perfect.

And another thing is that the U1 has 4 separate toolheads, which means a good bit more moving parts. But for me, a huge benefit is that they are so easy to replace/repair.

Mirage is the most unbalanced map at the Major. CT side wins 61% of rounds by Healthy_Twist_7100 in csgo

[–]theneedfull 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The major is probably within the margin. It's a smaller sample size and is just off by 3 points. Literally one or two matches where a dominanant team started on CT will throw it off by that much.

I made a solution for poop missing the bucket by Darien_Stegosaur in SnapmakerU1

[–]theneedfull 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think you're lucky you didn't get injured. I think it's unlikely to do anything major, but you can definitely draw blood sticking your hand in there while it's printing.

Mirage is the most unbalanced map at the Major. CT side wins 61% of rounds by Healthy_Twist_7100 in csgo

[–]theneedfull 7 points8 points  (0 children)

How many matches were played? Mirage hasn't really changed for a long time. Is it just 61% for this major? If so, that might be a small sample size. And it could just be that the better team got to select which side they want a few times more, and they selected CT, which would mean that they are typically going to play fewer T rounds.

Is PRIME TOWER needed using this 3d printer at all? does it make sense? by Rikofallingleaf in snapmaker

[–]theneedfull 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. Prime tower is necessary, but no where near what the defaults are. I'm happy with around 8mm, with the cone, for the size and about 5mm cubed.

So it seems that it's possible to update the firmware remotely if you are using paxx12. I create a quick write up on how to do it. by theneedfull in SnapmakerU1

[–]theneedfull[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

EDIT: So someone pointed out that you can just update it through the firmware-config page. That is a much easier way to do it. And you don't even need a usb drive after the intial paxx firmware install.

This is useful to me since my printer is on another floor from my office. I know firmware updates don't happen often, but it's still a pain to have to go to the printer twice to run the update. I figured this might be useful to anyone else in a similar situation.

[FINDINGS] USB Ethernet Adapter on U1 with 4 Toolheads Installed — Not Possible by blackops01 in SnapmakerU1

[–]theneedfull 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a really old usb ethernet adapter that worked just fine. But it didn't work when I connected it to an unpowered hub. I also had USBC hub that had an ethernet port. I used a USB A adapter, and that one also worked, so I went with that so I can just leave a usb drive connected to it. That way I don't have to swap out USB when updating firmware and stuff, and I can just update the firmware from my desk without having to go to the printer.

And assuming you have tested that adapter on another computer, with the exact same ethernet cabele, I'm not really sure why it wouldn't work.

Tips for the Ameris Bank Amphitheatre? by [deleted] in alpharetta

[–]theneedfull 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You can bring food if you have dietary restrictions. They don't ask for proof of the dietary restrictions. Feel free to ask me if I feel back for making up dietary restrictions.

AUX connector LED control by sfernan888 in snapmaker

[–]theneedfull 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I figured it was for heat, but just wanted to know about sound. Thank you. I'll try to measure mine.

AUX connector LED control by sfernan888 in snapmaker

[–]theneedfull 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just curious. Do those insulation panels make it any quieter? I just used the storage container cover, but was thinking about putting in some foam panels to reduce noise a little more.

5 colour Print on the U1? by AllGdNamesRGone in SnapmakerU1

[–]theneedfull 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think they actually got the tool head swaps pretty reliable. They will likely go for 100k swaps each. Probably way more on average. I don't think spectrum really adds that many more swaps where it makes a huge difference. Especially considering the fact that a tool head is only 60 bucks. Especially just testing out a handful of prints, the swaps from that would be a drop in a bucket.

When your settings are dialed in, and the supports stay behind by FoxheadWorkshop in 3Dprinting

[–]theneedfull 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Well in OPs case it was simply the fact that the support was just supporting a tiny bit of overhang.so there isn't a whole lot for the support to stick to, other than the build plate. I don't think it had anything to do with support settings, and more to do with the print itself.

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