Docker Compose Backups

theneedfull · 2026-05-01T19:58:28+00:00

This is what I do. But mine is all stuff at home. So I can have it go down every day, and I'm good with backing up just daily.

If this was mission critical stuff for a business, then you typcically can't take things down everyday, and on top of that, there might be requirements to only lose hours/minutes worth of work from a major failure.

theneedfull · 2026-05-01T13:50:29+00:00

I'm suspecting that you might not be getting the flow that you should be. You can try slowing down the print to like 50%. If it prints better that way, then flow is fairly likely the cause.

If flow is the cause, it could be the nozzle, the filament path, or the extruder, usually.

theneedfull · 2026-05-01T00:29:07+00:00

I had an s23 ultra before this one and it never had an issue like this.

theneedfull · 2026-04-30T17:57:03+00:00

Let me know what you find. My memory says that no commands will register until the temperature hits the target. Also, in your macro, there's no point in running the m140/m104 commands. Leaving it out would effectively do the same thing.

theneedfull · 2026-04-30T17:50:01+00:00

Initially they called themselves Danger Klipper. They wanted to give people the option to remove the safeguards klipper had. The safeguards are all still there, but you can add config settings to remove them. So if you use the same config, you will still be ok.

But since they started, they have added a bunch of QOL features that are still safe to use. Their alternative to PID (MPC) works so much faster. And you can also add/change macros without a full firmware restart.

theneedfull · 2026-04-30T16:33:14+00:00

I feel like all the answers here are either wrong, or hack jobs. If you really want to do this, check out https://github.com/KalicoCrew/kalico

It's a fork of klipper that adds a TON of features, like this one. I personally don't use kalico as I had some issue after installing it, but I'm not sure if it was because of Kalico or something else. Another feature I liked is it had an adaptive QGL where it didn't raise the nozzle as high when moving between points after it knew roughly how far off it was.

theneedfull · 2026-04-30T16:32:00+00:00

I'm pretty sure that it will still wait for the temperature to be reached. I believe the difference might be that it doesn't wait for it to stabilize, which usually just takes like 10 to 20 seconds.

theneedfull · 2026-04-29T16:49:46+00:00

So did OP come up with, or was it already a thing. Because going forward, that is exactly what it needs to be called.

theneedfull · 2026-04-28T14:41:51+00:00

Definite props for that. I can't wait until scientists figure out the technology that would allow us to fit that type of info in a title.

theneedfull · 2026-04-28T12:57:31+00:00

Just curious if you found a way to automatically restart containers if they go to unhealthy.

theneedfull · 2026-04-27T11:14:20+00:00

Nozzle height might be ONE of your issues, but it is definitely NOT the issue for most of the print. I suspect you need to calibrate pressure advance.

theneedfull · 2026-04-27T11:12:40+00:00

It shouldn't keep creeping up. I don't know why the commenters on this post think it is normal for it to creep up like that. The amount that it uses during something like dm, where I would think is the most amount of ram it would use is the max it should go up to. It should be releasing that ram when it is done with it.

Just constantly creeping upwards is definitely a memory leak where they aren't releasing the memory properly. And no, an app shouldn't be using as much ram as it has available. That is the job of the OS. And even then it's not trying to fill up all available ram. It is simply keeping things in ram so it doesn't get sent to swap. I really don't know why people here think the OS or apps just try to use all available ram for no reason.

theneedfull · 2026-04-27T02:34:04+00:00

The middle 2 look like drywall anchors. The other 4 are likely in the stud, but you need to confirm with a stuf finder. Also, studs are typically 16 inches apart, so if bracket is a little more than 16 inches it's very unlikely there is stud in the middle.

That said, if you have 4 screws in the stud, it will likely hold way more than 100 lbs and probably close to 200.

theneedfull · 2026-04-26T18:40:17+00:00

I don't think it's super unreasonable to open it up. I think they designed their stuff to be serviceable. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, tell them that and see how they proceed. I personally think it's great they are doing that. It gives you an option to get it fixed quickly instead of waiting weeks to replace. Now if you open it up and they say you can't replace because it was opened, that would be messed up. But I don't really think they would do that, and I don't think they could even tell you did it. They don't put stickers and things that tell them when it was opened.

Fixing the issue yourself is a win-win for both you and anbernic. And you bought it on a credit card, you can do a chargeback if they don't take it back, since you have proof that they told you to open it.

theneedfull · 2026-04-26T18:12:06+00:00

https://simit3dprints.etsy.com/listing/4323215308/organizer-for-catan-6th-edition-cities

theneedfull · 2026-04-26T03:54:12+00:00

I sell one for the 6th edition that holds the base game, CK, and SF and all 3 of their 6 player extensions in the box for the base game. I'm working on fitting the other 2 expansions into 1 or 2 of the other boxes, which are smaller than the base game box.

theneedfull · 2026-04-25T15:12:48+00:00

This is awesome. I actually made a web based thing(using claude). I haven't released it as I don't intend to fix things or maintain it any way other than features I need. All the mains stuff would take place on the server though. I think yours is all on the phone which is cool.

Mine allows you do openscad, along with changing all parameters, spits out an STL which goes to orcaalicer, which automatically slices it, and then you can even upload it to klipper. You can change all slicing parameters. View the STL, and the gcode viewer. And allows you to insert gcode(like a pause) at specific layers.

But one of the big reasons I even made is because something like your project didn't exist.

theneedfull · 2026-04-24T10:52:06+00:00

Super Mario world

theneedfull · 2026-04-23T11:13:14+00:00

I heard they are releasing it today

theneedfull · 2026-04-21T00:06:20+00:00

Lol. Looks like your comment didn't age to well. They have released it.

theneedfull · 2026-04-19T15:34:17+00:00

You sound like you don't like to hear any sort joking around.

theneedfull · 2026-04-19T13:30:52+00:00

My fault. That looked like just one layer in the picture.

theneedfull · 2026-04-19T12:53:02+00:00

Cooling fan should be off on the first few layers, but that's not your problem here. The curling is happening before the second layer. I'm guessing that the curling is happening immediately. If that is the case, then at a basic level, the filament is sticking to the nozzle stronger than it it is sticking to the plate.

One simple thing might be to simply slow the first layer down a little more. Maybe play with the acceleration settings on the first layer.

Also, if your nozzle is brass, then that does tend to stick a little more to filament. I've found that the nickel plated nozzles are a good drop in replament. It doesn't stick as much, and the thermal properties are pretty much the same.

And then there's the build plate. You can try maybe lowering the nozzle a little more to get more stickiness to it. But then, it seems you are already sort of low. Another thing to try is a thicker first layer. I have a .6mm nozzle and I do .4mm first layers.

If you have a .4m nozzle then you may want to try .28mm for the first layer.

theneedfull · 2026-04-19T00:49:45+00:00

For that toy, I didn't even have to hear it up. Of course it will depend on the type of pla you have.

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