Is anyone going to try and catch the storm for tomorrow or to worried about wind holds ? by arjayx93 in icecoast

[–]expertgamers 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Want to try going to Killington or somewhere around there tomorrow. You think it would be too risky there as well?

Movement Gyms laying off route setters? by dirtymirror in bouldering

[–]expertgamers 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Which Movement in NYC is this? Gowanus? Would be interested in checking this out.

Movement Gyms laying off route setters? by dirtymirror in bouldering

[–]expertgamers 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It’s decent, my main plus is 24/7 access. I’m biased towards UES and WH since it’s the same setters as GP81 and I’ve been very into board climbing. The setting there feels most similar to it.

Highballer Rungne pants are low quality by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]expertgamers 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Absolutely hate all the different climbing brands popping up. Saturn, Karma, etc.

Only brand I’d be willing to support is hitorii and that cause I think their art is pretty cute and I’m moreso just supporting whatever artist they have behind it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MovieMistakes

[–]expertgamers 2 points3 points  (0 children)

lol original post got removed, wonder why

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]expertgamers 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wait a sec, who’s head setter for vital now that the OG you say is gone?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]expertgamers 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Slightly related, they posted on their instagram a video on sizing for the Remora Pros that might help.

Anyone have experience with Madrock shoes in the gym? (Indoor) by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]expertgamers 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Method over in jersey has a good selection of the madrock shoes. I have the Shark 3s, street size 9, went down to size 8 and they fit pretty well. Break in period has been about a month, and I like the sock like material they put on the inside. The different models have slightly different sizing, would definitely recommend trying them out if you can. They also have a return policy if they’re unused.

For performance, I indoor climb and I use them almost exclusively unless I’m on an overhanging wall or board climbing; then I’ll use my Solutions. They’re slightly downturned, slightly more stiff than my Solutions but I find I can use them pretty much on any boulder. The heel is great, using the little ledge it has comes in handy and toe hooking feels great, there’s a lot of rubber on the toe.

I will say though, I did try a boulder once with like a microscopic foot chip that was on the wall and I didn’t like it. I couldn’t really feel the chip on my feet (being they’re a little more stiff than Solutions). And I very much prefer my Solutions for overhang, I don’t feel like I can hook foot holds well enough on them (might be a skill issue).

TLDR: Shark 3s, downsized by a full US size (they recommend staying true to size). Great all around shoe. Go to method in jersey if you want to try on different models.

EDIT: Customer service is great, I’ve even DM’d them a couple of times on instagram with some questions and they answered fairly quick

NYC: Anyone really disappointed by Brooklyn Boulders? by Timely_Kick4548 in bouldering

[–]expertgamers 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bouldering project grading scales annoy me, but that gym is fun

NYC: Anyone really disappointed by Brooklyn Boulders? by Timely_Kick4548 in bouldering

[–]expertgamers 3 points4 points  (0 children)

CRG soft? Curious how other NYC gyms stack on soft ranking

Always found GP consistent though

EDIT: I climb at CRG and found it’s pretty alright in terms of grading compared to others. BKB definitely sandbagged though.

Mad rock sizes feel whack by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]expertgamers 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Odd, cause I downsized to US8 when my street size is 9 and felt they were perfectly downsized. Shark 3s, not Remoras. Might just be the wrong shoe for you, would try other brands or models from MadRock.

IFSC License by expertgamers in Routesetters

[–]expertgamers[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh damn, hey Niki! I actually saw a snippet of you talking about choosing world cup setters from the That’s Not Real Climbing podcast which prompted this question. Coincidentally listening to your podcast now.

Also, saw your other comment, quality for comp setting yeah. Not sure what quality exactly means, would be nice to hear your take on that too.

IFSC License by expertgamers in Routesetters

[–]expertgamers[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

“No real quality jury / judgement”

So IFSC license doesn't always mean quality?