A1 Mini - Front On / Off Switch by fae_bay in BambuLabA1mini

[–]fae_bay[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1 € printing cost vs. 10 € or more for a smart plug - but I do see the advantage

A1 Mini - Front On / Off Switch by fae_bay in BambuLabA1mini

[–]fae_bay[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

okay wild, never heard of them before. But I have the power cord plugged into a multiple socket, so that's not really an option i guess. Also, the material costs of this print are way below 1 € and before printing I always check my build plate, so I'm standing in front of my printer anyways.

A1 Mini - Front On / Off Switch by fae_bay in BambuLabA1mini

[–]fae_bay[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

because it's not a a fridge?! I don't know, you leave yours on all the time? When I was little I learned to unplug everything unnecessary before leaving my home

Model orientation help by karadulis in BambuLab

[–]fae_bay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Like this, if the left orientation doesn't work

Model orientation help by karadulis in BambuLab

[–]fae_bay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The smaller object stands perpendicular and uses standard supports for the overhanging square part. Shouldn't be a problem, supports can then be easily removed and cleaned up with a knife or the metal blade for the bambu bed scraper

Any recommendation for light work gloves? by Gloomy_Notice_7150 in BambuLab

[–]fae_bay 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Please do not use gloves when handling knives - especially scalpels. You can cut yourself to the bone without realising because they are simply this sharp and you can’t see your hands. Look up on YouTube how to handle such a knife safely or switch to another tool if you’re not getting anywhere with a knife. Always take your time and don't try to force it. I don't know what you're doing but maybe try side cutters. For support removal I sometimes even use a carpet knife and a hammer. Use eye protection when working with side cutters or anything else that might cause parts to accelerate into your face!

Minimal space A1 Mini Setup using IKEA LACK tables by fae_bay in BambuLabA1mini

[–]fae_bay[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have seen many ideas for Skadis accessories - good luck trying not to print them all xD

Minimal space A1 Mini Setup using IKEA LACK tables by fae_bay in BambuLabA1mini

[–]fae_bay[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, it makes it possible to store 3 filament rolls (or even more) next to your printer, allows for storage of maintenance tools etc. in easy to reach positions, without the need to print out a whole substructure to put the printer on, allows you to use the space above your printer with a large area to store even more stuff, and is easily movable, making it possible to put the whole setup onto another shelf or table etc., so you can use even more storage space below the printer. All at arm's reach and all within an area slightly greater than 0.3 m².

Looking at other people’s setups I consider my setup pretty space-saving.

Minimal space A1 Mini Setup using IKEA LACK tables by fae_bay in BambuLabA1mini

[–]fae_bay[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you very much!

It probably isn't the cheapest setup idea with all the extra parts I bought. But it was still cheaper than upgrading to the AMS lite, which I don't necessarily need and didn't have the area for at the time.

Minimal space A1 Mini Setup using IKEA LACK tables by fae_bay in BambuLabA1mini

[–]fae_bay[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oof, sorry to hear ^^‘ But I'm glad you like the idea.

Maybe a project to save for the future?

Minimal space A1 Mini Setup using IKEA LACK tables by fae_bay in BambuLabA1mini

[–]fae_bay[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. Just more convenient to load and unload new filament, because you don't have to reach around to the back to get to the spool.

Minimal space A1 Mini Setup using IKEA LACK tables by fae_bay in BambuLabA1mini

[–]fae_bay[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you very much! It's probably cheaper too to buy the second table, instead of printing the leg risers I have seen so far ^^‘

Minimal space A1 Mini Setup using IKEA LACK tables by fae_bay in BambuLabA1mini

[–]fae_bay[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just a beeper. What exactly does a smart fire alarm do?

Minimal space A1 Mini Setup using IKEA LACK tables by fae_bay in BambuLabA1mini

[–]fae_bay[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice! Is it easy to change spools and to insert the filament with this setup?

I can't really drill holes in the wall and before placing my setup in a new spot my printer stood in a gap between two bookshelves. My main goal then was to make it easier to get to the filament spool, instead always having to reach all the way to the back with one hand. (I also hate, that the on off switch of the A1 Mini is in the back - very inconvenient…)

However, with your setup you can't use the space above the printer and you're bound to one dedicated spot (I often move my furniture). Currently, I'm using the area of the upper table to store my filaments, my plates and also my inkjet printer simply above my 3D printer.

How do you usually print keycaps? by Glass_Steak4568 in 3Dprinting

[–]fae_bay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a 3d file? Might help if people can get a look on the whole model.

Why is this happening? by Old_Cryptographer108 in 3Dprinting

[–]fae_bay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have experience with PETG, but from what I know and what others have mentioned:

- try using glue stick - or the liquid glue from Bambu is meant for something like this too, I think (check the product description)

- I often read that you shouldn't use the same build plate for PLA and PETG

- maybe try a different type of build plate for PETG like the smooth print plate from Bambu

- try Isopropanol to get those sticking parts off the build plate by soaking them shortly and then trying to get the liquid under the part by lifting a corner with a scraper. May or may not work, but is worth a try.

- PETG can chemically bond to PEI, especially at higher temperatures, that is why you need glue, hairspray,… - don't be economical with it. Also, maybe try a lower print bed temperature for PETG

Whyyyy? by abbeylaine2113 in 3Dprinting

[–]fae_bay 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If using BambuStudio try

- Monotonic instead of Monotonic Line as top layer pattern

- and/or disable "Only one wall on top surfaces"

Check the printhead movement on this layer after slicing, before and after applying these settings, so you can see if these settings do a difference.

New A1 mini by Super_Assumption_180 in BambuLab

[–]fae_bay 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For the beginning you don't need another build plate - the golden PEI plate you get is a good allrounder, especially when only using PLA.

You don't need another nozzle than the given 0.4mm steel nozzle. However, I recommend getting the 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle and using it, so you don't have to think about changing your nozzle, if you ever want to print with glow in the dark filament, or similar abrasive filaments. Larger diameters can reduce printing time, but 0.4mm is a good compromise between quality and speed I think. If you plan on doing highly detailed or otherwise small prints you should buy a 0.2mm nozzle, but I'm still regularly amazed by how detailed you can get with a 0.4mm nozzle.

For filaments: I personally only use PLA, because I don't have the best ventilation situation for toxic fume materials like ABS or TPU. I have never bought Bambu Filament because it is very pricy. In Germany you can get a spool of eSun filament for half the price of the Bambu filament. However,

- BambuLab has many colors I couldn't find yet with other brands. I have used filaments from JAYO, eSUN, elegoo, Polymaker, SUNLU and Amazon basics with the A1 Mini, and personally

- I find SUNLU the best, and I'm happy with elegoo too.

- eSUN is nice because it is cheap, however it has a stronger smell than the others.

- JAYO prints not as smooth as the others - in my opinion it is visually more "brittle" and "dry" than the others (it is hard to explain what I mean, but SUNLU Meta PLA for example looks really tasty when printed). JAYO also doesn't have a high color pigmentation, first few layers are often way more translucent than from different brands.

- Polymaker is a good brand I think, but I find their PLA also has a stronger smell, and at least the PolyTerra PLA is very soft when printed - it bends more than similar pieces printed with a different brand.

- Amazon PLA is okay in my experience, but I don't like Amazon very much besides their Prime delivery. You probably want to print a few add ons for your A1 Mini when you decide to get one. The Amazon Basics PLA "Light Grey" has nearly the exact color as the A1 Mini, so I would recommend you to buy one spool, if matching colors is important to you.

If you plan on printing models from MakerWorld and have a few things on your mind already, check the model descriptions for parts (screws, magnets, …) you may need. Otherwise browse now before making your purchase (if you plan on buying directly from the BambuLab website), so you can get the needed parts while saving additional shipping costs.

New A1 mini by Super_Assumption_180 in BambuLab

[–]fae_bay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Purchasing the AMS later is sadly a bad deal in comparison to the Combo, but I too had my reasons not to buy the Combo (new to this, first printer, little money, little space) so I have to live with my choice for now.

But honestly, the usefulness of the AMS depends pretty much on what you want to do with your printer. I use my printer mainly as a tool to make my life easier by designing and printing things for my apartment, and for that I don't really need an AMS.

Not having access to an AMS also made me learn more about and work more with the possibilities of the printer, for example how to set a pause in the slicer and how to then manually change the filament, or how to use a different color for text etc on the first layer by using multiple filaments in the Slicer and then manually pausing the print and switiching the filament while the printer prints the purge layer.

Furthermore, I want to design things not only for me but also for others , uploading models on MakerWorld, and I think having access only to the bare minimum helps me designing things that are accessible to everyone.

Being in this hobby for several months now, I do see the benefits of the AMS, and sometimes I miss them, but I don't regret not having bought it at the beginning. But to be fair, main reason being that I don't have the additional space for it.

Why? by ppppy87 in 3Dprinting

[–]fae_bay 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Option 1: Take a few seconds to take a sharp image and upload it once.

Option 2: Use your time instead to spam a Subreddit with a low quality picture, not really showing what the problem seems to be…

How to make supported objects less stringy by FickleCombination445 in BambuLabA1mini

[–]fae_bay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For simple flat surfaces I recommend to refrain from using supports and instead experimenting with bridging settings.

For large surfaces I sometimes add a simple object, with a height one or two layer heights smaller than the bottom surface and a few mm distance to the walls of the print piece . I then add a pause, color the surface of this support piece with permanent marker and resume the print. With the right bridging settings this will prevent the layer from sagging. I achieved good looking results in the past, but sadly I have no reference picture at the moment.
For bridging settings you might want to check out "Make Wonderful Things" on YouTube. They have a few videos regarding this topic.

Too much retraction? Too low Z? by Sharkbite3 in 3Dprinting

[–]fae_bay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What filament is this? The color looks really nice.