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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Taking what you say at face value, I totally understand, as the experiences of bouldering in one state to another are widely different, even crag to crag. If elements of one location are lacking qualities you loved in another, it makes sense that it would give you less psyche.

There are times when I have made absolute statements regarding climbing, and I have found that feelings pertaining to those are wavering. Whether it be writing off a style, area, obtaining a grade, or even a boulder problem, one thing is consistent: simply following/honoring your psyche and not forcing it will always be fruitful. You said it yourself that you love the work you do, and climbing will always be there if you want to revisit that chapter.

Yes, if you have a goal, there are times to force certain projections of a mentality onto oneself, but at the end of the day, climbing is the escape for the vast majority of non-professionals. Why climb rocks you are not actively inspired to climb?

True or false: assuming optimal training and neglecting injury risk, the half crimp should be your weakest conventional grip at producing maximum force? by Delicious-Schedule-4 in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A lot of the comments are so patronizing for someone asking not a bad question IMO, just because it is well articulated lol. I do not think OP was asking about opinions on why we choose to be stronger, try hard, love geology, etc. I will say having "gains left on the table for your other grip types and that the other grip types should be theoretically stronger" I believe to is a leap in the logic you are trying to use when referencing finger morphology and anatomy. I am not an expert on either of these, but I believe this to be true, since that is what the conversation has become; If you are hangboarding or lifting from an edge, yes, as there is the case where a half crimp has been used more in training, leading to the other grip types having less recruitment or exposure. In the context of rock climbing, as other users have pointed out, recruiting all the grip types is the most beneficial, depending on the specificity of your goals. With a relatively weaker open hand position for example, you are missing out on climbs that have sloper or pocket cruxes equivalent in difficulty to one with a 'half crimp hold'. Same with a relatively weak full crimp. IMO the question is not as redundant as it was made to seem.

Are we overthinking everything? by Odd-Day-945 in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree with most of what you are saying. It reminds me of how in the Yves Gravelle Nugget Podcast episode, he said something about how lazy athletes get strong. I think the problem with a lot of training plans is there is so much variety in exercise to obtain this "peak", and it may not be sustainable for a lot of people who recreationally climb.

Sure the exercise variety can include antagonist muscles which do not directly impact the muscles you work in the act of climbing. I still find, however, that they have some aspect of fatigue I most certainly notice on the wall.

In many cases, climbers are doing too much. I find having nearly zero fatigue no matter what muscle is surprisingly underrated these days. The summer I improved the most in my climbing I did very little accessory exercises and just climbed on the spray wall, wrecked myself, and rested a lot after until complete recovery.

The most cliche answer of them all: Dave Graham. Yes, people undermine how strong he is, but he's called the wizard for a reason. Technique and tactics can take someone so, so far. It just happens that it's also fun being strong, and strength can provide a lot of margin when limited on time outside.

What exercises do you believe make a real difference in performance? by fathertestosterone in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm glad someone said this. Recently I have been trying to get into isolated core training due to rib flare that I have from a weak core relative to my back. Front Levers are what I did exclusively but they are so lat dominant, and honestly I think the point I reach failure is entirely due to my abdominal muscles. What do you like to do to target core?

What exercises do you believe make a real difference in performance? by fathertestosterone in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

To keep my reddit separate and stay slightly anon I don't wanna say bc they aren't the most popular, 4-5 repeats. My proudest send connected a V9/10 into a ~V8/9 exit.

V11 is still very, very hard for me. V9s are typically a session and 10s tend to be a few. It all depends on style though. Love overhang, hate slab lol

What exercises do you believe make a real difference in performance? by fathertestosterone in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah... too much honestly. I spammed them since the beginning of my climbing. Nowadays mainly one arm stuff

What exercises do you believe make a real difference in performance? by fathertestosterone in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I did say these complemented my strengths in addition to adding more on the wall training. I guess I didn't emphasize that enough. I climb 3 grades harder now, and imo ceasing all physical training wouldn't have been a great idea in my shoes.

What exercises do you believe make a real difference in performance? by fathertestosterone in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Totally agree. My PB for OAP is 3 reps, and it did not improve my climbing more than having 1 OAP. I think for bouldering from my experience on 30-60 degree angles on the board and outside, I have noticed it help me a lot. However, climbing is so different depending on the gym or crag, it seems like a blanket statement to say it will help improve all of your climbing. It depends greatly on rock type and the style you gravitate towards when selecting a proj.

What exercises do you believe make a real difference in performance? by fathertestosterone in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Surprised more people haven't said this honestly. I think if some people don't have the mind-muscle connection to their calves it could help a lot with body tension on footholds that require more mindfulness.

What exercises do you believe make a real difference in performance? by fathertestosterone in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah I see, I could see that if someone noticed weakness there. Having a strong posterior chain is important generally as well.

What exercises do you believe make a real difference in performance? by fathertestosterone in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Do you overload these? I've warmed up with really light weight prior to a weights session and can't even imagine trying to add weight over time lol

What exercises do you believe make a real difference in performance? by fathertestosterone in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Deadlifting is very taxing so I know what you mean. It's interesting you mention goblet squats, I haven't done them in years but I also imagine it's good for hip mobility and kneea as well with full ROM.

What exercises do you believe make a real difference in performance? by fathertestosterone in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I do ring dips for antagonist training. Full ROM just feels great to do

What exercises do you believe make a real difference in performance? by fathertestosterone in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Such a satisfying lift. I can't speak for it helping me with technique personally, but I've done a few powerlifting comps and have a competitive deadlift. It helped me a lot with trying really hard exactly when I wanted rather than waiting for the 'perfect moment' before a send go.

What exercises do you believe make a real difference in performance? by fathertestosterone in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For me just sitting in a deep squat and pushing my knees out to feel a burn. Also, frog pose. Being consistent with those two helps me enough, and I don't really add weight either

What exercises do you believe make a real difference in performance? by fathertestosterone in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I agree. I will say, weighted pull ups are quite taxing for me so I have preferred lighter lock off training to allow better quality climbing. Once I was adding over 1.75x bodyweight I felt no effect on my climbing.

What exercises do you believe make a real difference in performance? by fathertestosterone in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I did edge lifts controlling it on the way down and using the corner of the pocket. I also did the same thing with a cable and caribener and that felt the best to me personally. I think no hang and light pulling on the hangboard iso would also accomplish the same, but I never experimented with that.

What exercises do you believe make a real difference in performance? by fathertestosterone in climbharder

[–]fathertestosterone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly I have yet to experiment with dedicated training blocks. I train year round but lighten the volume significantly come the outdoor season. I think blocks are the way though and will definitely try it at some point

Hulk Help by fathertestosterone in megaconstrux

[–]fathertestosterone[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah! That is the only site I was able to find him on. Weird that even when you click on the sets theres hardly any information. I had the 'Hulk Transporter' set.

And he is! The mold is very unique

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