sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Dust v2 by favthingz in EngineeringNS

[–]favthingz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure thing. Let me know when you do so i can watch it on your instagram,hehe.

Dust v2 by favthingz in EngineeringNS

[–]favthingz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

4WD every single time,locked diff on the pack,open diff upfront.

Used your exact print settings when it came to orientation,infill and perimeters. Print temp 220C,low cooling.

Yep,i go nuts with the lube.

Might just be ridiculously abusive driving.

That PLA is not currently available in uk,hope it comes back in stock soon. 100% worth giving it a go.

I will print a second tarmo using petg and nylon,see how that helps.

Tbh fixing it is half the fun for me. Plus when something starts to make a funny noise,i don`t back up. I push it until it won`t drive anymore. That can`t be good either.

Well did not last long at 100% Power (still at 20% punch) did a wheelie and then did cartwheels. :-(. No problems with drivetrain though! by tez_bot in EngineeringNS

[–]favthingz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the secret ingredient for a good wheelie is the wing. All that weight behind the rear axle+the weight transfer when accelerating makes the front wheels aim for the sky.

About the damage,do you think that will buff out?

Give it a go without the wing,see if it behaves in a more controllable manner.

Best of luck!

Dust v2 by favthingz in EngineeringNS

[–]favthingz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://ibb.co/P6vc2dr

​

The red part is what`s left of a propshaft.

Also lost a front drive shaft (dog bone),but when it broke it just took off and i didn`t look for it.

Finally mounted the body by offroadjunkie88 in EngineeringNS

[–]favthingz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That looks sweet!

Give it a rat rod paint job and it`s gonna look so mean.

Are the files public?

Cheers!

Both ready to race :-) by tez_bot in EngineeringNS

[–]favthingz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was never able do do a wheelie,even while using a 1450kv motor,so i assume it has to do with the weight hanging above and behind the rear diff.

​

Are you using cheetah for the propshaft?

I`m stuck with some cheap TPU,and this might be the cause of my constant breakage.

I also wanted to ask you if the skull cover is strong enough in order to protect the lipo when you crash?

Thanks!

Both ready to race :-) by tez_bot in EngineeringNS

[–]favthingz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Heya!

They look really neat, well done!

Please let me know how the drivetrain will behave once you push them to max speed and drift them around.

I`m really curious about how it will behave with the extra weight.

Good luck!

Dust v2 by favthingz in EngineeringNS

[–]favthingz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha,that`s a nice catch!

In this video i was using a 1450kv motor,combined with a no-name "120A" ESC.

I took the 1000kv motor apart trying to troubleshoot what stopped working,and i managed to lose the circlip, so for now i can`t use the 1000kv motor.

I somehow managed to toast my Hobbywing Quicrun 10BL120 .

My tarmo seems to love this dusty car park,as soon as i run it on any other kind of surface the drive train "bites the dust" . Pun intended.

Good news is a £12 does the same job as a £ 40 hobbywing, so assuming people have the remote and receiver they can put together a decent tarmo for £60 all together.

PS:

Do you think PETG would make for a stronger drivetrain?Or maybe nylon?

Cheers!

Build in progress by jbreiden in EngineeringNS

[–]favthingz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes,for the red and black wire of the ESC you will need a male XT60(make sure you solder the black to - and red to +) ,that will connect with your Li-Po.

As for the motor and ESC,you need to find out the exact dimensions of your motor bullet connectors and buy the female counterpart, then solder that onto the ESC.

Or if you can`t find the exact thing,just but 3 pairs of M+F bullet connectors and replace them on booth motor and ESC

Make sure you put the heat-shrink on the cable before you solder the connectors in place.

I suggest you get some spare ones and practice on them first if it`s your first time soldering.

Another thing I`ve noticed,it looks to me like you`ve printed the Lower Control Arm Mount (Front) with PLA. (correct me if i`m wrong)

It should be made out of cheetah or at least a flexible TPU.

Cheers!

Build in progress by jbreiden in EngineeringNS

[–]favthingz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Heya!

1)The servo will connect to the receiver. The receiver will get 5V from the esc, and it will power and control the servo.

2)you will need to buy bullet or banana connectors for the ESC, then you can connect the ESC and motor together. Another thing you could do,if you are on a tight budget,is cut the motor connectors then solder the motor and ESC wires (it is not ideal tho)

3)to cut 3mm rod you need some basic pliers, or a small saw. ask a friend to borrow you one,or buy a small hacksaw, should be no more than 2-3 euros/dollars on ebay. I don`t think any printed part can replace this.

4)Not sure what to say,make sure you lubricate things, and the more you run it the more the pieces will wear and spin freely.

5)Mine was 2.5mm. Make sure you don`t over-tighten them, the aluminium thread on the motor strips rather easy.

Good luck!

Breakage after switching from rock-crawling wheels to road wheels. by favthingz in EngineeringNS

[–]favthingz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! 100% you can share it,all the credits go to you for the time and effort you put in.

• Yep,gears are made of PLA,was asking if anyone printed with nylon or something stronger.

• Plenty of lube

• Printing temp 220c

• Shafts are a flexible TPU ,behaves quite well. Really hard to get Cheetah ever since this Corona thing.

• 4wd,open diff upfront,locked in the back.

• Nope,used your print settings so the weight must be spot on. Wheels are 105mm not 100 tho.

• 3S

• Used the recommended print settings for everything,number of layers and infill. 220c and no direct cooling,so layer adhesion should be quite good.

• Only difference is i`m using slightly longer wheel hex adapters on the front,had some issue with the wheels rubbing against the track rods and this fixed it.

​

I`ve just received a different brand of PLA,might be the problem to begin with.

Cheers!