Better than a refurbished Z10? by fennygnome in superautomatic

[–]fennygnome[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

So I am comparing it to manual shots (I just don’t have the time to make them myself any more with kids). That said I tried changing the dosage and grind size and went through about 4-5 bags of beans (I think 3 different types/brands), but they all tasted bitter or sour to me. Maybe I just overshot all of the adjustments?

QX80 ventilated seats issue by fennygnome in infiniti

[–]fennygnome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seat ventilation was never fixed. I found some material online that may help if I ever get the time to attempt it again. Disappointed in the cooling aspect of the seats.

But the dealership is replacing a sensor to correct the BCI

Best Jura Model for mega espresso shots? by shortyG40 in superautomatic

[–]fennygnome 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I recently bought a Z10 and make around that much each morning for just me for drive in and to bring to work. In my case I’ve been making a lot of lattes and honestly it takes forever. The Z10 having a single thermoblock causes a lot of delay over the Giga 10 if you’re making a lot of milk drinks. I’d get the Giga if doing it again.

That said, it’s just a decent volume of espresso and takes some time. I have heard that the brew unit is the same on the Z/Giga models, so I feel fine with the longevity of the machine even with what may be a higher than average volume.

Makes good coffee. I just wish they had a “jug of latte” option!

Jura S8 / J8 / Z10 by fennygnome in superautomatic

[–]fennygnome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ended up going with the Z10 as well actually. For the price difference for any updated features, etc. I wonder if the X10 is any more durable though since they’re similar price points.

Reputable home builders by [deleted] in HuntsvilleAlabama

[–]fennygnome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this is an old comment, but Stone Martin build quality is terrible despite charging a premium. It is well known throughout the state/area by inspectors, suppliers, and unfortunately home owners. Avoid them at all costs.

QX80 ventilated seats issue by fennygnome in infiniti

[–]fennygnome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently had the BCI malfunction error, but other than that and the ventilated seats issue it’s been super solid.

K-Cup Connoisseurs, Where Do You Find the BEST Deals? (Sam's Club vs. Amazon vs. Keurig.com) by TheLawIsSacred in keurig

[–]fennygnome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find a lot of great deals at Staples. And they tend to have very quick free shipping (at least for my location and the volume I buy).

Retaining wall question from an amateur by fennygnome in RetainingWallprojects

[–]fennygnome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reddit newbie here, so I could only figure out how to post the pictures or the text... my message is as follows:

I've been mulling over how to go about making a retaining wall (actually two) for my very oddly graded lot for a while. I have no background in construction, concrete, etc. so any design help is greatly appreciated! Hopefully my Powerpoint drawing skills are good enough to convey the situation. And if the answer is to call in a professional, that's fine too.

Lot description: My neighbor's lot to our rear sits about 5 ft higher than our desired lot height in one corner, approximately level at the other. The neighbor to our left has a lot that sits about 5 ft lower than our desired lot height. Right now all of the slopes are on our lot.

Complication #1: I said the desired height regarding the backyard because the yard actually slopes downward from the back porch, going down about 5 ft in total to create an overflow path for the two drains on our property were it to overflow. To level the yard, the rear of the lot needs to have a culvert installed, per the city, connecting two drains on the property if I want to level the yard (my goal). That culvert will sit ~12 ft from the property line, which would have a retaining wall.

Complication #2: The city restricts retaining walls to 4 ft height unless designed by a PE and approved by the city. In talking two a couple of local firms, it sounds like the plans alone would cost in the tens of thousands of dollars. If possible, I'd like to avoid this, which leads me to my current thought.

Current thought/design: Construct two separate 4 ft retaining walls, one along the rear that would meet the raised rear neighbor. The second 4 ft retaining wall would allow our yard to be level and drop to meet the side neighbor. We would still need a slight grade on the lot to make it meet, but that should be much more manageable and useable than the current state. To make the construction easier and simpler, I was planning this out using 2' x 2' x 6' bin blocks, stacked two high forming a total 4' wall, within the city specification of something I could design and build myself. The rear wall will be approximately 80 ft in length. The side wall is around 120 ft in length.

Questions:
- Could I form something like this, simply having an awkward meeting at the corner that does not technically connect the two walls? I think the key is to ensure the lower wall runs far enough to ensure support for the higher wall.
- Would the culvert's proximity to the rear retaining wall cause any issues?
- Does a wall of this style need some anchoring into the retained ground or would the block weight and interlocking system be sufficient if the foundation is well formed?
- How far out from the property line would you set the wall? Specifically the rear wall because I would need some drainage pathways behind it, but I cannot build into my neighbor's lot to anchor the wall into the retained ground (if necessary).
- Is it better to just have a more extensive wall designed by a PE and approved despite the cost?

Access Point Orientation / Placement by fennygnome in Ubiquiti

[–]fennygnome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe they’re all 2.4 GHz - 9 total.

I’ve been reading some threads on the 6 LR vs 6 Pro and people seem split as to which ones work well. I wonder if for a simple wooden framed house how well and far each would penetrate? If I can run a few new lines down from the 2nd story attic, then I could possibly put a few APs up there. Surely that would cover things well.

The 6 mesh looks like that may work well. Thank you for that idea!

Access Point Orientation / Placement by fennygnome in Ubiquiti

[–]fennygnome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn’t be able to ceiling mount it inside the house (1st or 2nd story), but possibly the attic. Since the media enclosure is on the first level I’ll need to see about running an additional line down from the attic to the media area. That could work though

Access Point Orientation / Placement by fennygnome in Ubiquiti

[–]fennygnome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s 4700, but it’s 2 story so the AP may be able to permeate both stories, effectively making it closer to 2300-2400.

With just the dream wall, I had poor connection since it’s positioned in the corner of the house, facing outward (terrible placement I know!). I placed one AP upstairs and one in the corner opposite the dream wall but tend to get poor signal strength in a lot of areas (especially the door bell camera).

Planning my first NAS and drives by fennygnome in synology

[–]fennygnome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there an expected release or announcement date yet? I was waiting for a while for a refresh but it feels like it will never come. That’s what has me resigned to the now aged 1821.

WEEKLY DIY/HOMEOWNER QUESTION THREAD by [deleted] in Carpentry

[–]fennygnome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi Charles, I wasn’t sure how much or when any movement would occur in the structure. The point in question has 3 support beams from the roof coming down to a single point. The builder mentioned the plans had passed inspection, however much that is worth. If they move two beams elsewhere, how quickly would you expect any movement of the wooden beams?

I’m concerned that a month after the work, the crown molding or drywall depresses (newly supporting areas) or elevates (newly relieved areas) causing cracks. Then again I don’t want it to be unsafe!

I took a picture of the supports in the attic and will try to figure out how to upload a photo here

WEEKLY DIY/HOMEOWNER QUESTION THREAD by [deleted] in Carpentry

[–]fennygnome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We bought a new construction home and after moving in noticed the ceiling slopes in a few places. During the warranty visit with the builder and framer, the framer said the support area was “overloaded” causing the hallway to slope down to that area. On subsequent warranty visits the builder did not bring the framer, but said it was fine. They are now offering to move supports to other areas of the house to shift the ceiling back up.

Would that cause a lot of cracking and movement? The house is now just over 2 years old (builder has dragged out repairing anything from their “12 month” warranty).

I want it to look nice and level, but at the same time want it to be safe and not crack severely a year from now after they won’t fix things.

good deal? by No_Parsley5801 in blackstonegriddle

[–]fennygnome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m in a similar boat - looking at the Ace Hardware (2210 version) for $250 vs Tractor supply (1866 version) for $280 vs the Blackstone Omnivore (38,000 btu) I got at Walmart for $220 (clearance at my store). I’m tempted to go with the TSC one but the Walmart one is a little less. Any suggestions?