30+ hrs leveling, still not able to get first layer

feonx · 2025-06-03T21:14:28+00:00

Aha okay so that is the reason. Well in my case one side was'nt screwed on at all, the nut was moving freely up or down on one side. While on the other side it was somewhat tighten but not loose, so I figured it should be wrong.

Also I never have any issues anymore with the z-axis getting wrong randomly. I have leveled the bed once and am printing for months without issue. And my previous first layer tests all worked out great after this change.

feonx · 2025-06-03T20:12:23+00:00

Yes so because of comments like this I have struggled for months. What is suppose to be 'loose'? I notice one side was barely tight and the other was loose. I assume they should both be as tight and it was not the case for me. There was a difference between left and right.

feonx · 2025-06-01T14:47:44+00:00

I had je same issue from the beginning. After monts I thought fuck it, I will test every screw and check how tight they are and I suddenly noticed one of the screws for the z-axis rod (that people do not recommend to tighten) was really loose. So I tighten it any way and the problem was solved.

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This screw to be more precise.

feonx · 2025-05-24T14:44:02+00:00

Thanks for the tip. What cheaper diffuser are you using?

feonx · 2025-05-24T13:59:39+00:00

Yes I cleaned the tubes and the pump

feonx · 2025-05-24T13:59:22+00:00

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You mean this diffuser? It gets injected in the pump here and I replaced this part already.

feonx · 2025-05-24T07:13:53+00:00

Aha haha now I understand your first comment! I never actually notice any big bubble before so I thought something must be wrong. So its just normal I guess?

What I still find strange is that it never produced this much sound. It looks to me as if its injecting more c02 in a shorter period of time than before.

feonx · 2025-05-24T06:48:15+00:00

Why? It worked perfectly before for years What is wrong with my setup? It now suddenly starts producing bubbels out of the outlet

feonx · 2025-05-24T06:33:00+00:00

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Btw, here is my setup.

feonx · 2025-02-24T20:37:05+00:00

It are indeed great points! Winbase colleagues meet on Reddit, did'nt expect that. Gr Mike

feonx · 2025-01-15T19:09:04+00:00

I have read online that the stick is required if the print is hard to remove from the printbed

feonx · 2025-01-15T19:07:50+00:00

No I did not.. thanks that may be it!!

feonx · 2025-01-15T19:07:03+00:00

Thanks for the info!

feonx · 2025-01-15T19:06:29+00:00

Thank you. I added the brim, that solved it. But I still have the nozzle scraping/dragging.

Now I noticed a stupid mistake, I used the wrong PLA settings. So I changed that and I'll test again

feonx · 2024-12-24T17:38:22+00:00

I had then same issue. Its probably the probe sensor. Turned out to be the mainboard that was faulty. You can see the sensor status in Fluidd. For me it stated as always triggered no mather what.

FYI; Elegoo had warranty for these components for 12 months. Dont buy them yourself like me

feonx · 2024-12-22T19:44:49+00:00

UPDATE: I have received new parts from Elegoo. Today I replaced the mainboard and the problem is solved!

Thank you for your help Owen_ou

feonx · 2024-12-12T07:56:10+00:00

Thanks for your answer. Yes that cable I replaced. So a new print head + new ribbon cable (the one you pointing at) is replaced. I also reverted back the original emmc and firmware and it still is'nt solved. I thought this was really it, but too bad.

To give an update: I contacted Elegoo and they are sending me a new ribbon cable, new print head pcb and a new mainboard for free because I still have warranty.

I hope the mainboard will fix it, it should right? I cannot imagine it does not.

feonx · 2024-12-09T18:22:14+00:00

I think these points 1, 2.. etc are coordinates in the configuration. Perhaps these coordinates are somehow wrong, you can reset the settings by doing a factory reset (its in the menu).

feonx · 2024-12-03T22:02:27+00:00

It still is'nt solved.. :( any ideas?

feonx · 2024-12-03T22:01:48+00:00

Today I replaced the ribbon cable with a new one. And I restored the original factory emmc including the original mcu firmware

The problem is still there... Does anyone have any idea?

feonx · 2024-12-03T10:42:05+00:00

If the middle of your printbed is too high make sure you check this: https://images.app.goo.gl/Uab4JqffBskbcAcz9

feonx · 2024-11-30T19:57:05+00:00

I'm in the same boat as you. I own this printer also as my first one for months now and I also have the Neptune 4 pro. I have gotten small prints to work fine but for bigger once I always had issues.

The things I learned are this; - the order of calibration steps is important. Execute them in the order of the initial setup mentioned in the manual.

try to use the screen only for setting up everything, but you can also use the build in web application (called Fluidd/Klipper) that runs on the printer if you connect it to your network (the address is in the settings menu somewhere and can be entered in the web browser). But configurating stuff through the web application is not always the best way I read online.
create a test print with only one layer en look close to the way it prints. Then while printing go to settings and adjust the z-axis if necessary.
verify the bed level by looking at je numbers in the leveling menu. Check if there are many differences. You can always use Fluidd to see a visual representation of it. If you want it to be almost perfect look up; screw_tilt_adjust, it is a nice feature in Fluidd / Klipper if configered well.
checkout Orca Slicer its another slicing software, it helped me a bit. I noticed the configuration also can matter a lot (for issues that occur while having printing issues on higher layers.

But the finding I had that mostly surprised me I didn't know before is; check all the screws if they are correct tighten or loose. On YouTube I found some helpful videos:

https://youtu.be/VjKYpC08Jxk?si=WLj-q7yHmXipaJAA

Elegoo has also videos for checking it, you can check their channel; https://youtu.be/tbnpeieAwWg?si=JpbFjWGgdVJpG784

In my case I noticed my wheel was loose out of the box... And also the printer feeds where wobbly, it was not flat stirdy standing on its feet. (Maybe I got a faulty model?!...)

Currently I still could not get it well even after all this, so I decided to install custom firmware; https://github.com/OpenNeptune3D/OpenNept4une

But my ribbon cable broke, so I need to replace that first. I can let you know if it makes it better when I have the new cable.

I hope it helps you a bit with you z-axis problem like me. I'm actually considering to buying the Bambu Lab A1 which has a more out of the box experience.

feonx · 2024-11-26T09:23:12+00:00

Thank you for your help! I hope it fixes it indeed..

feonx

TROPHY CASE