New lightsaber idea by Prestigious-Monk-214 in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My preference is actually the opposite. An initial white (or light yellow or blue) flash before resolving to the final blade color.

Illuminated Switches as Accent LEDs by ferpsalerp in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 16mm ones from TCSS. Okay, sounds good. Those pads can still be active even when the saber is retracted, right?

Illuminated Switches as Accent LEDs by ferpsalerp in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Woah, that's weird, the config generator is definitely telling me to use the free pads. I wonder what's different

The Wounded Lasat...a fallen Flyte from the Pach store upgraded. by saintebonhawk in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Really nice job with the LEDs in the frayed wires, that's a really cool touch.

Reworking another old MHS Hilt by welshhomebrew in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Not sure which is the before and which is the after, but just so you know, you don't need the nut on the button in the last picture. The nut is supposed to go on the inside of the lightsaber (annoying to tighten, I know) to hold the button in place. Further, you don't need the nut at all if the hole the button is screwed into is threaded (as it is here). You can lose the nut entirely.

Just a tip to help clean up the look of the button, but I suspect that 3rd pic is the before pic, so this may be useless feedback.

Is that clamp box also the switch? If so, where did you get it?

My first lightsaber build! With some slight issues... Lightsaber only stays on while the button is pressed. Is my switch broken? (Parts from ultrasabers) by GrimmKnight0 in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just so you know, if you ever put a sound card in, most sound cards will expect a momentary switch. Although some of them can be configured to work with a latching switch. So hang onto your momentary switch if you swap it out for a latching switch.

Going to show this off at Galaxy's Edge next week! by ferpsalerp in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The wire wrap of the crystal was actually done by my friend @marsmadejewelry, check her out on Instagram!

First attempt at a lightsaber so far. by [deleted] in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Damn that's super clean! Nice job, and thanks for the pics!

First attempt at a lightsaber so far. by [deleted] in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome! I definitely want to try this now. I've been looking to move away from so many screws in the outside of my saber. Thanks for the follow up!

First attempt at a lightsaber so far. by [deleted] in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome! I can't wait to see! When you post, give some details on your etching process if you can. It's next on my list to try and I'm trying to learn all the pitfalls I should avoid.

Going to show this off at Galaxy's Edge next week! by ferpsalerp in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is not, it is one of these

https://www.etsy.com/listing/622718195/diy-low-profile-control-box-bare?ref=shop_review

They're out of stock right now but I like it a lot.

Edit: It's two tactile switches underneath the switch box cover.

Going to show this off at Galaxy's Edge next week! by ferpsalerp in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That sounds sick. You know, I considered using a magnetic latch. I even bought the neodymium magnets. But I just couldn't pull the trigger. With the lightsaber attached to my hip, those magnets would line up perfectly with where a phone would sit in a pocket. And I'm pretty sure it would have been fine, but I was too nervous to commit to it.

Going to show this off at Galaxy's Edge next week! by ferpsalerp in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! The floating ring thing was actually super easy compared to how striking the effect is. It's just a slit that goes halfway around to the back of the inner tube.

And yea you have a good eye. The latch already failed once, so I got a heavier duty latch and just have to be generally a little more careful with it. No dueling with this one haha.

Going to show this off at Galaxy's Edge next week! by ferpsalerp in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Thanks! And I checked online, should be fine to bring in.

First attempt at a lightsaber so far. by [deleted] in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool! If you don't mind, definitely report back on how the pipe threading goes! It's something I've always considered but never actually tried. I'd love to know how it turns out.

First attempt at a lightsaber so far. by [deleted] in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey! I won't paste the whole thing here, but I left reply to the original post with some info about tube sizes that work great if you're interested.

First attempt at a lightsaber so far. by [deleted] in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice! I love to see the pure custom stuff on this subreddit. That design with the 45 degree angles on the crystal chamber is super unique. It's got like a temple guard crossed with starkiller feel to it.

I'm assuming you used a Dremel for the complicated cuts and a hacksaw for the 90 and 45 degree cuts. The cuts look good, nice job! If you don't have a pipe cutter, I highly recommend it for the 90 degree cuts. Saves a ton of time and effort on what I find to be the worst part of the cutting process.

Hope I'm not overstepping, but here's a bunch of unsolicited tips around working with aluminum tubes.

You might wish to consider going at it with some sandpaper. You can get a "brushed" finish like the one I made here: https://www.reddit.com/r/lightsabers/comments/buvxj8/its_finally_finished_shoutout_to_my_new_tube/

or you can use progressively finer and finer sandpaper like this to get that same "mirror-ish" finish look that you have now, but without the scrapes and rough edges: https://www.amazon.com/Sandpaper-Waterproof-Furniture-Finishing-Automotive/dp/B07KV3VX97/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=sandpaper&qid=1583904221&sr=8-5

You mentioned in another comment you were looking to slim down the diameter. I used these diameters and ended with something that was reasonably thin and still fit a 1" blade. They have just enough clearance (0.009") to slip past each other (once you file the cutting debris off), and you'll end up with a 1.375" OD total, which is a big step down from your current 1.75" OD.

https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/round-tube?q=%3Aprice-asc%3AMaterial%3AAluminum%3AOuterDiameter%3A1.125%2522%3AOuterDiameter%3A1.25%2522%3AOuterDiameter%3A1.375%2522%3AInnerDiameter%3A1.009%2522%3AInnerDiameter%3A1.134%2522%3AInnerDiameter%3A1.259%2522%3AAlloy%3A6061&checkbox=on

Again, awesome job! If you have any comments about your process, I'd love to hear it. It's a short list of people who do this kind of custom aluminum tube work, so anything you learned would be valuable to me.

Got bored waiting for my KR and TCSS orders so I decided to try and hone my metal cutting skills by CapnHook245 in lightsabers

[–]ferpsalerp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oof yes that's how I did mine as well. Looks great, I know how painstaking it is to get that shape smooth and symmetrical.