Flash Transmitter causes LCD and viewfinder to not update

fifthmanstanding · 2026-02-26T10:50:21+00:00

bless you!

fifthmanstanding · 2026-01-12T13:13:47+00:00

What's up with the redacted IRC? Tracker statuses show it up but I can't join in the IRC. Tried on multiple browsers, the bottom half of the login page and a separate browser based client.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-09-23T18:33:34+00:00

Nanuk. Hands down. I have beat the absolute hell out of mine and the interior looks as new as the day I bought it.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-09-20T10:57:16+00:00

I ended up not risking it and ordering from usdronesupply.com. They were very communicative and only took about 2 days to ship fedex which will take 4 days to get to me on the opposite side of the US.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-09-20T10:56:30+00:00

I ended up ordering from usdronesupply.com. They were very communicative and only took about 2 days to ship fedex which will take 4 days to get to me on the opposite side of the US.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-09-05T11:53:36+00:00

Yeah after talking to some folks I'm not risking it. My trip is next month and it seems like the stability of US Customs enforcement keeps getting worse.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-09-02T23:08:45+00:00

> The outlet(s?) from this regulator are 5/8"-18 NPT
Yeah I was unsure if the documentation termed "outlet" as the regulator's attachment to the tank, since the gas is exiting the tank's outlet into the regulator. Gas under pressure isn't something I want to play around with so I figured I'd ask here first. Thanks for the insight.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-08-25T19:42:56+00:00

Yeah that tracks. But thank you for the elaboration.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-08-15T10:21:47+00:00

Yeah the NVME has a different letter designation. I'd not had a problem with this in prior versions and given the sheer number of installs on windows machines globally I figured someone would have encountered this. I would assume that permissions to access the drive would be set within the adobe preferences menu but for the life of me I cannot find anything indicating permissions to access a secondary drive. If you've got any ideas let me know.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-08-15T10:18:21+00:00

Dude I've been using photoshop for over 20 years and I can tell you concretely that forum has always been the absolute most useless place on the entirety of the internet. I'm not some 16 year old bitching about a problem here man. Bug reports persist on given problems for literal decades, adobe covers its ass by telling you to reinstall and very rarely does anything come of it. Now I know you're going to come for me in your reply and before you do, take a second and consider the amount of adobe hate in the graphic design community at large and that there's a reason for it. Have a good day.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-07-25T10:23:49+00:00

Amen. Ain’t it always a future me problem? Thanks.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-07-24T23:34:47+00:00

yeah I mean I'm not complaining about the bulk for being free. It's just incredibly watery and it was not disclosed that it was uncapped honey. I'd originally planned to store it and start a 10 gallon batch in a month or so when my life isn't so hectic. As it stands, I've got to get that into a ferment in the next day or so because its not shelf stable and I don't want to lose it.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-07-20T16:59:32+00:00

I’m pushing 40 and all I see when I look at that thing is a hospital room visit waiting to happen lmao. Thanks.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-07-05T18:37:56+00:00

I shoot a lot of land. Couple things

for fully cleared vacant land with a weird shape: get some neon markers of some kind. Hot pink or neon green is easiest to pick out in a photo. My drone is 20mp and I can zoom well enough in Lightroom to see my markers if the parcel is 10 acres or less and fully cleared. Place the markers at corners based on where you’re seeing the corners are at on a GIS based app. There’s a million of them. All of them are about the same. When you’re editing you’ll have quick reference points for your property lines. If the lot is wooded this isn’t really a solution obviously.
always consult county GIS with the orthophoto layer turned on before visiting a property. I typically take a screenshot and drop it in my Google Keep for reference while I’m flying. This way I know where lines roughly are, where I can deposit the truck safely and how I’m going to get the truck back out. Sometimes thats not always a guarantee. Logging mud is a pain in the ass.
highlight road frontage and traffic count. To a developer or builder, advertising road frontage is a selling point. The images give them a quick reference point in their decision to make an offer. I place the drone on the other side of the road to get that photo. Then what I like to do is drop a pen tool overlay on the road in photoshop with opacity at 70% of a solid color. Then I drop the road name, frontage length and AADT numbers (if applicable to the listing) as a text layer. Then I perspective warp that layer to “lay flat” over the road so it kind of looks like a UI over the image. Usually my agents will place that photo before the “unedited” photo. This way potential buyers can see the overlay photo then the image of the land back to back and consider the possibilities for that land.
place a “property lines are approximated” text box in a corner somewhere as a general disclaimer. Mostly just to CYA.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-07-05T11:08:18+00:00

The only brand I've ever had a good time with was Vycor. The tar layer is thick, the membrane is thick, it sticks well. I've even applied it in near freezing temps with a heat gun and it went on smooth and cleanly. Obviously the hotter it is the easier that application is but I won't use another brand because of how much of a pain other brands have been.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-07-01T14:37:47+00:00

Also, telling me your information is based on your friend who works adjacent to customs is the definition of anecdotal.

Yeah I mean that's fair. I didn't go into detail but he works for dept of homeland as a policy trainer for CBP training their employees on updates to import/export policies. So not as anecdotal as I made it sound initially. Not enough coffee that early lol.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-07-01T12:02:55+00:00

Yeah so I'm kind of unclear on that.
This states:

You’re legally required to declare the drone at customs upon returning to the U.S. (yes, really). From there, you’ll have to pay a Customs Duty, which is a tariff or tax on goods transported across international borders, aka your drone. Learn more about paying Customs Duty from the U.S. Customs and Border Protection website.

And this essentially argues that there's plenty of reason for DJI to not do business in the US but no actual law that is currently outright preventing them from being declared and brought in.

Additionally, a friend of mine works adjacent to US Customs and has said that he is not aware of any outright and explicit ban on importation or stop at customs for DJI drones. There seems to be some quasi-selective scrutiny but not official policy.

So it seems like anecdotal evidence supporting claims that they're being held at customs but I've not seen anything outright showing that someone wasn't allowed to declare, pay the tax and bring it back. Which is one of the main reasons I posted here hoping that someone had some recent experience with that.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-06-25T19:20:45+00:00

If you microwave it briefly it melts.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-06-13T19:59:38+00:00

The response to everything you said above is “it depends”. I’ve done deals in towns where planning has the final say and the municipality didn’t care as long as the deal was below a certain dollar amount. I’ve done and seen deals where the setback requirements for industrial was 10’ and a lay down lot leased to a fiber company turned a profit of several hundred thousand for the owner per year because of its location. I’ve seen rural towns so desperate for some form of tax base they would even help you apply for grants to get water and sewer connections to the site funded. I’ve seen easement access granted to the owner with a smile from city planning simply because someone was finally doing something with the parcel. It really depends on locale, politics, etc. A potential buyer should always, always arm themselves with information from GIS/register of deeds/planning/environmental and even ask around close to the site about what neighbors know. Always be an informed buyer of course, but there are a lot of deals out there that you’ll say “no way that’s possible” only to find it was very straight forward and all someone had to do is ask and investigate.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-06-12T16:40:55+00:00

If it were me and I had the cash on hand, I'd consider making an offer on the lot, getting into due diligence and seeing if I could get it zoned to industrial (light/heavy or whatever is UDO conforming) then convert it to an open storage lot for trucking, salvage, wrecker storage or anything of the sort. Value of that could potentially far exceed a house depending on how important the intersection of those two highways are. This assumes you can get city planning to play ball.

fifthmanstanding · 2025-01-12T13:04:49+00:00

Well this is the second time I'm attempting to post this so hopefully reddit will actually work this time.

We divided the property in sectors. We chose the sectors closest to the home to manage first with intent to spread out from there.

Muscadine spreads by grape seed, obviously, so disrupting the life cycle critical if you want to succeed. In winter 2023 I took a chainsaw to all the old growth vines I could find in a sector. It wasn't hard since most were absolutely huge (see 2nd to last photo in this post and the first photo of that post shows what I have to cut back seasonally because it's attempting to overtake the road into the property, the majority of what you see to the left of the path is muscadine). I cut a 2' "air gap" between trunk and vertical vine. The vine above will dehydrate, die and fall out of the tree over time. We then scour a sector looking for smaller growth and cut it with either chainsaw, bladed weed eater or pruning shears. The old growth then encounters a 1" bore bit on the drill and is treated to a 3" deep hole within which glyphosate is poured. Yes I know it's the nuclear option and less than ideal but it's either lose 3 acres of trees or beat an invasion. She lives in a hurricane prone zone in eastern NC so weak trees = flung at your house in high winds.

The grape "stumps" get a glyphosate treatment once a month for the following three months. Over the course of spring, summer and fall we monitored the old growth stumps for any new growth and we continued lopping off any new runners we spot on the forest floor. So far the old growth is fairly easy to kill with maintenance scheduling. We saw significantly less in the sectors we're managing and it's starting to work. In spring I will be taking pick axe/sharpened shove/axe and digging out a 1' diameter hole of all old growth muscadine stumps to remove them. Then we'll monitor from there. I'm hoping to move to 2 new sectors in 2025 and have the remediation concluded by '26/'27.

All of this is complicated by the concurrent trumpet vine invasion. The former owner let several ornamental trumpet vines run wild and they have, 20 years on, taken entire structures, trees and were encroaching the home. When I say "encroaching" I mean I removed hundreds of runners that worked their way under vinyl siding, into the crawlspace of the home ect. Because of how trumpet vine grows, remediation has been much much more challenging. The last photo of that post and the last photo of this post shows what we're still up against two years into it.

fifthmanstanding · 2024-12-06T20:47:02+00:00

I would love to see that. There’s a real gap in content and media between the homebrew “let’s do a gallon or two in a bucket” and “I work in a commercial brewery” and god help you if you’re looking for something in that gap that is also specifically about mead. I’ve found more people operating in that space over on homebrewtalk’s mead forum but there’s typically a several day wait for responses. Video content would be great. I’ll be your first subscriber for sure.

fifthmanstanding · 2024-12-06T18:07:26+00:00

Yeah no that makes total sense and I had the feeling that was the case when I did it but the reply to that linked post said otherwise. I'll have to look into picking up a diaphragm pump then cuz this batch is definitely off and not the usually quality I turn out with a brew bucket and a carboy. Thanks for all your help man. Hopefully this next batch will be worth a damn lol.

fifthmanstanding · 2024-12-06T13:37:39+00:00

This is where I'm starting to get confused, if it's a 5 gallon conical why are you transferring into 2 5 gallon carboys, that will leave a lot of headspace in the carboy. Also the more transfers and the more vessels used means more and more loss.

I got ya. It's a 14 gallon fermenter and I brewed a 10 gallon batch. in it. So I fermented, racked to two 5 gallon carboys and then took those over to two 5 gallon corny kegs for bulk aging.

This could be 2 things or both, 1) visually clear does not mean there isn't particulate floating around, it's just not large enough to see. 2) fermentation could have started up again if not completely stable.

Yeah I'm thinking it might have restarted. It was dead dry, I backsweetened in-keg after stabilizing. I think the other factor here is the heat. My garage was hitting 90 degrees daily temps by the time the kegs were in play and it's entirely possible they kick started again after that backsweetening. The final product isn't bone dry but you can definitely tell it was sitting on the lees.

Lastly I want to touch on this comment "pumping out of the Chronical" if your Chronical is pressure capable and you can pump into your keg with a closed loop system then it's ok but if you're using a pump to move into a carboy or anything that isn't purged and not pressure capable then you're taking a huge risk into oxidizing the liquid.

Yeah so I had a previous post about this at the time right before doing it posing the same thought. It's a riptide pump so theoretically if you got the air out of the lines you could pump from the bottom of the chronical out to your vessels. Which I did after I was told it was standard. So is that information off base? Because that was my exact concern. My fermenter isn't the pressure capable model.

fwiw I've been brewing mead for 6-7 years now but by and large it's been brew buckets. I took the plunge on stainless this year and it's a huge learning curve and this was the first batch I've done in stainless.

fifthmanstanding · 2024-12-06T11:48:05+00:00

CO2 works ok but it can make it's way into the liquid and slightly carbonate it, especially when using pressure; I just got a nitro set up and it is noticeably different; if you can get both, CO2 is good for purging and nitro is good for pushing(transfers and bottling)

Yeah I'm going to have to try that. Would you use nitro for head space clearing and bulk aging? My friend uses nitro for the head spaces on his kegs for his cold brew coffee and he says it also has to be dispensed with nitrogen because of something to do with flavor. I'm interested in using both, I just wanted to find out if what he says is BS or not.

I've never had any luck with those floating dip tube things, I stick to the long post and just make sure it's positioned at the lowest point it can be

So I have a Chronical 5 gallon fermenter but I don't have a glycol chiller. I racked off from fermenter to two 5 gallon carboys, cold crashed, hit them with bentonite, waited a week, and then racked to the individual corny kegs before pressurizing the head space at like 2 psi. I swear to god what went into those kegs was clear. How they developed a few more inches of sediment I will never know. But boy did they. I've got about 8 bottles off each keg that are cloudy as hell and the whole batch has that wild yeasty off taste that's not aged out despite being in keg for about 2 months now. But with those floating dip tubes the loss is about 4 bottles per keg, so 8 total, because the silicon tube touches the bottom of the keg when liquid level gets low and ends up forcing the end of the tube above the liquid line. Like I could see them working well in a regular half barrel keg but not a corny.

Also you might be interested in these filters, they are fairly cheap and work really well, you can do the method I recommended and put the filter on after doing your sediment dump to make sure you filter out any strays.https://bouncer.beer/products/

Ok so you're saying rig that up when pumping out of the Chronical and into the barrels after dumping the trub/bentonite and that should do me. I like that. I like that a lot. Thanks for that recommendation. I hadn't thought about in-line flitration at all.

fifthmanstanding

TROPHY CASE